polkanut
Well-known member
In the winter with incoming cold water temps being 40°F or less in our northern climate I use the warm rinse option to better remove detergent residues from our laundry.
57 Frogeye Kenmore washer, and matches set 59 Wirlpool Imperial
- Thread starter akronman
- Start date
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spin problems
The 1959 Whirlpool washer and dryer were working fine until:
No spin. Washer agitates well, pumps out, then the instant the wig-wag left side pops up to pull out the cambar, everything siezes up immediately. Also, the tub is locked solid during agitation, whereas my 1974 Kenmore has some play in it.
So, back to the 1959------IT also needs a new belt, so I'll get one before any dissasembly,is 57" V-belt #14952 correct? But I'm also wondering what to look for as I start repairs----probelms with the tension spring and plunger for the clutch, at the far end of the cam? Or Clutch and brake issues?
Hmmm...
Thanks
Mark
The 1959 Whirlpool washer and dryer were working fine until:
No spin. Washer agitates well, pumps out, then the instant the wig-wag left side pops up to pull out the cambar, everything siezes up immediately. Also, the tub is locked solid during agitation, whereas my 1974 Kenmore has some play in it.
So, back to the 1959------IT also needs a new belt, so I'll get one before any dissasembly,is 57" V-belt #14952 correct? But I'm also wondering what to look for as I start repairs----probelms with the tension spring and plunger for the clutch, at the far end of the cam? Or Clutch and brake issues?
Hmmm...
Thanks
Mark
Spin issues...
Mark,
Such cool machines! It was fun to look at this thread again.
I think you will be surprised how much a new belt will do. The most drag on the belt in the cycle operation is spin start. A sign of an aging or loose belt is a squeal at the switch to neutral drain from agitation and/or during the switch to spin from neutral.
The original belts, which were numbered something like 16192 and 16358, were long ago replaced by 95405, which fits all belt drives from 1956 forward that use the standard pulleys and the "new style" pumps that came out in '56. I think it fits the older models as well. The older belts commonly dried out or snapped. The 95405 has poly wire in it like belted car tires to give it more longevity over the old belts.
I would first lubricate the cam bar travel channels with something like white lithium or rykon grease, and under the basket drive yoke as well. Make sure you get the roller on the support that the cam bar bisects. Then manually activate the spin solenoid plunger by hand and turn the gear case drive pulley to move the spin cam bar in and out of spin. If it engages and disengages easily, your belt is the problem.
You might want to look also at the splines on the brake drum. This area might need lubrication as well.
BUT, start with a fresh belt and see what happens. They can quiet a machine, restore the woos, make the machine operate slightly faster, and make it seem to go from worn and tired to fresh and new again.
Good luck, hopefully this will get you going again. If not, we'll re-examine.
Gordon
Mark,
Such cool machines! It was fun to look at this thread again.
I think you will be surprised how much a new belt will do. The most drag on the belt in the cycle operation is spin start. A sign of an aging or loose belt is a squeal at the switch to neutral drain from agitation and/or during the switch to spin from neutral.
The original belts, which were numbered something like 16192 and 16358, were long ago replaced by 95405, which fits all belt drives from 1956 forward that use the standard pulleys and the "new style" pumps that came out in '56. I think it fits the older models as well. The older belts commonly dried out or snapped. The 95405 has poly wire in it like belted car tires to give it more longevity over the old belts.
I would first lubricate the cam bar travel channels with something like white lithium or rykon grease, and under the basket drive yoke as well. Make sure you get the roller on the support that the cam bar bisects. Then manually activate the spin solenoid plunger by hand and turn the gear case drive pulley to move the spin cam bar in and out of spin. If it engages and disengages easily, your belt is the problem.
You might want to look also at the splines on the brake drum. This area might need lubrication as well.
BUT, start with a fresh belt and see what happens. They can quiet a machine, restore the woos, make the machine operate slightly faster, and make it seem to go from worn and tired to fresh and new again.
Good luck, hopefully this will get you going again. If not, we'll re-examine.
Gordon
Thank you Gordon
I have ordered the #95405 belt, under $6, and will take your advice when it gets here.
Thank you, I'll keep posting!
Mark
I have ordered the #95405 belt, under $6, and will take your advice when it gets here.
Thank you, I'll keep posting!
Mark
mrb627
Well-known member
Slightly off topic...sort of...
But, is there any concern about using an FSP belt or a generic when replacing?
M.
But, is there any concern about using an FSP belt or a generic when replacing?
M.
Non oem belts for WP belt-drives
Malcolm,
I haven't seen a lot of non-oem belts for BDs, but I know that they are out there. I have seen a couple ERP95405 on ebay, which is a common after-market parts company. I would imagine that Supco makes or made one, and possibly RobertShaw and a few others that had certain belt-drive parts.
I did buy a couple ERP belts just for comparison and curiosity not long ago but have not tried one yet. One that I did try was sold like an automotive fan belt, I think it was an AutoFlite 95405 belt. Not quite the same in cogs and exact construction, but I tried one a few years ago and the machine is fine, quiet actually.
The clincher here is that WP still offers the 95405 at my last check this summer, so my view is why buy an imitation when I can still get the right exact spec'd part and its widely available? $6 for a belt for a washer made in 1959 is stupendous that it is still around from the OEM supplier.
Gordon
Malcolm,
I haven't seen a lot of non-oem belts for BDs, but I know that they are out there. I have seen a couple ERP95405 on ebay, which is a common after-market parts company. I would imagine that Supco makes or made one, and possibly RobertShaw and a few others that had certain belt-drive parts.
I did buy a couple ERP belts just for comparison and curiosity not long ago but have not tried one yet. One that I did try was sold like an automotive fan belt, I think it was an AutoFlite 95405 belt. Not quite the same in cogs and exact construction, but I tried one a few years ago and the machine is fine, quiet actually.
The clincher here is that WP still offers the 95405 at my last check this summer, so my view is why buy an imitation when I can still get the right exact spec'd part and its widely available? $6 for a belt for a washer made in 1959 is stupendous that it is still around from the OEM supplier.
Gordon
Need to modify my response from last night...
Mark -
I must have been tired when I was trying to describe the basket drive yoke support in my response above. The yoke itself does not need to be lubricated, but the support it sits on does, as does the cam bar spring (both sides) that looks like a bow tie.
Lubricate the support itself where it rides in the socket at the corner of the gearcase, and lubricate the roller in the middle of the support that rides on the cam bar. Also put a little grease on the underside of both ends of the cam bar spring.
I wanted to be sure I clarified this before my lousy description sent you in the wrong direction.
Gordon
Mark -
I must have been tired when I was trying to describe the basket drive yoke support in my response above. The yoke itself does not need to be lubricated, but the support it sits on does, as does the cam bar spring (both sides) that looks like a bow tie.
Lubricate the support itself where it rides in the socket at the corner of the gearcase, and lubricate the roller in the middle of the support that rides on the cam bar. Also put a little grease on the underside of both ends of the cam bar spring.
I wanted to be sure I clarified this before my lousy description sent you in the wrong direction.
Gordon
Gordon---
I'm doing NOTHING until the new belt arrives, don't worry. My 3 minute look yesterday shows dry dusty areas that should be shiny wet lubed, I've never done anything to the tranny and undercarriage since I bought this, I guess it's time when the belt arrives. The cam bars and that roller are bone dry after 57 years, no surprise.
Other than that, it's been a fine machine, and SUDS!!!!!!Between my hands and your brain, we'll get her washing again soon, THANK YOU!
I'm doing NOTHING until the new belt arrives, don't worry. My 3 minute look yesterday shows dry dusty areas that should be shiny wet lubed, I've never done anything to the tranny and undercarriage since I bought this, I guess it's time when the belt arrives. The cam bars and that roller are bone dry after 57 years, no surprise.
Other than that, it's been a fine machine, and SUDS!!!!!!Between my hands and your brain, we'll get her washing again soon, THANK YOU!
continued
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new thread, same machine, 1959 Whirlpool washer won't spin
This continues from an old thread----- http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?62439_46#bott Washer worked fine for a year, then had a clunk a few times as it went into spin, then just froze up for spin, no movement, belt ruined. I installed a new belt yesterday and greased...
www.automaticwasher.org
