'70 Maytag A806 oil leak - What do I do next? Please help

[qsd-dan]

Load of Bullshit

I've replaced a lot of o-rings is the last 16 years and never had a leak come back yet. They leak from a combination of use and age. One of our long term members, Geoff Delp scored a NIB A700 which leaked from the o-ring about a year into service. O-ring replaced, problem solved. Certainly no bushing wear on a virtually new machine.

 

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?18227
 

 

[good-shepherd]

Sourcing parts for this has been a circus

What parts do you need?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3749132546...PCcvkmsUTmOHd9nhfZxRPYnA==|tkp:Bk9SR8jO3PvMYg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155737762519?hash=item2442b1aad7:g:514AAOSwPatktFiy

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1240332852...DyFwvSH5ox4iVvgPsgJdbmqDfDcN|tkp:BFBMiNHE_sxi

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3549389751...AvQ/jOuabSOYPBjoS6vjIeQ5Yi|tkp:Bk9SR9LxnP7MYg

Better grab the stem kit fast if you don't have it.

 

[stuftrock1]

Lower o-ring

<blockquote>

<span style="font-family: helvetica;">"He stated that the lower O-ring should never fail.  He state emphatically that it fails because the lower bushing has gone bad (he stated from the motor rollers go bad and put undo lateral stress on the lower trans housing).  He explained that I was going to go through all of this and it was still going to leak anyways."</span>

</blockquote>
Yeah that's a load of bologna. Those lower o-rings fail all the time, so much so that Maytag replaced them with a lower lip seal (which is compatible with your A806, just be sure to get the old o-ring out before installing the new lip seal). When I bought my A512, it had a minor oil leak. Installed a new lower lip seal and that fixed it. Hasn't leaked as much as a drop since.

 

Your A806 is still very much fixable, don't get discouraged!

 

[lowefficiency]

And in the absolute worst case, if you get in over your head or find something you can't repair, you could swap in the entire tub/transmission/damper assembly as a unit from a donor washer, and have your machine back up and running in short order.

 

[atomict]

Agitator Stop Ring

Hey guys!  I am still working on this.  Life just keeps getting in the way!!

 

Anyways, I am looking for the agitator stop seal.  Any leads on to where I can get one or at least a part number??

 

Any help would be appreciated!!

 

[DADoES]

 
Y015494

 

[good-shepherd]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3856227614...gM2aCZRqXT6UsmMaygLP4P1691|tkp:Bk9SR_SVwcTaYg

 

[atomict]

Water Pump question

So i am still plugging along on this and am near the end.  I will post some pictures shortly. (My kids really enjoyed putting the transmission back together and pouring the oil!! )

 

I am replacing the water pump and noticed the stem for the bleach dispenser to attach to has no hole!  The stem is there but its solid.  <span style="text-decoration: underline;">So I am assuming that I just drill a hole?</span> Is there a particular size I am supposed to use?

 

Thanks again to everyone for their help.  This has been a really fun adventure.

 

One other question - After all of this, how long do you think it will realistically live for?

 

[qsd-dan]

The stem is there but its solid.  <span style="text-decoration: underline;">So I am assuming that I just drill a hole?</span> Is there a particular size I am supposed to use?

 

Use a 9/32 drill bit. It says that on the original package, maybe the new ones don't.

One other question - After all of this, how long do you think it will realistically live for?

 

I did this 15 years ago and not one single problem has cropped up yet. Not surprised though, it's a Maytag.

 

[DADoES]

 
Bleach port on the pump ... yes, needs to be drilled.  This 2020-21 thread discusses it starting at Reply 32 and references 9/32".

 

[stuftrock1]

One other question - After all of this, how long do you think it will realistically live for?

 

As long as you take good care of it and don't overload it or anything, it will probably outlive you. It's a Maytag, they weren't fooling around when they built them to last.

 

[atomict]

Back together - Something seems off

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">So I have it all back together, cleaned up, and I think something is wrong.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">First:</span>

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I hooked it up in the garage for testing with just the one hose hooked up to cold with the settings set to cold, and water started shooting out through the hot inlet.  Am I a fool for doing this or is it broken?  I thought it was supposed to be closed if you only wanted to do cold water?</span>

 

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Second:</span>

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I can't get it to spin.  It agitates and does it beautifully and smoothly.  When I have it set on the dial to do the spin, the machine just makes a semi-loud hum.  I checked the wires on the motor and all is good.  Any ideas on what's wrong?</span>

 

[good-shepherd]

I think something is wrong.

Yeah, both hoses should be hooked up.

No spin: Is it plugged in via an extension cord?

 

[DADoES]

If you’re feeding the water supply to the cold valve port via a garden hose, then put a Y-splitter on it and connect the machine’s regular two hoses to the splitter & hot/cold ports to feed water pressure to both which will eliminate the problem during testing.

 

[atomict]

Still not spinning…..

I got the y splitter for the hose and hooked it up. Water is just fine.

Plugged it directly to a grounded receptacle, still no spin. Just a heavy hum.

Ugg.

 

[atomict]

Brake broken?

So it will now engage in the spin cycle and pumping the water out, but it’s agitating - not spinning the tub! Is the brake broken?