rollermatic
Well-known member
a better
pic of it
pic of it
'73 Frigidaire 1-18 washer; noisy bearing in spin cycle
- Thread starter drh4683
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rollermatic
Well-known member
agitator back
in place. i think i made a new rubber gasket for the top pulsator nut when i put it on.
just checked machine, yes i did. again i used the rubber we sell at home depot. was afraidwater would leak around top nut and ruin all my work.
in place. i think i made a new rubber gasket for the top pulsator nut when i put it on.
just checked machine, yes i did. again i used the rubber we sell at home depot. was afraidwater would leak around top nut and ruin all my work.
rollermatic
Well-known member
and washing!!!
no leaks, runs great!
now let me try to track down that seal no. for you. as said i will be buying one too here in the next month when i pick up this next 1-18 from goatfarmer. i will probably take a year to restore it, just like i did this one. i like to work on them for a few weeks, then completely walk away for several months or more. they eventually get done. i have 3 more 1960's rollermatics waiting for me too.
no leaks, runs great!
now let me try to track down that seal no. for you. as said i will be buying one too here in the next month when i pick up this next 1-18 from goatfarmer. i will probably take a year to restore it, just like i did this one. i like to work on them for a few weeks, then completely walk away for several months or more. they eventually get done. i have 3 more 1960's rollermatics waiting for me too.
rollermatic
Well-known member
it looks like that seal
no is ps474733 at partselect.com. i bought it in 2009 and it was special order and 43 bucks plus tax etc. whole thing came to 50 bucks. will call them this week and see how long it takes to get them. they still show them as active. i guess frigidaire used this seal on other later model washers.
no is ps474733 at partselect.com. i bought it in 2009 and it was special order and 43 bucks plus tax etc. whole thing came to 50 bucks. will call them this week and see how long it takes to get them. they still show them as active. i guess frigidaire used this seal on other later model washers.
Pete....
Thanks so much for the pics....this gives me great input as to what I will come across......outside of the bellows and bolt removal, the seals should seat right in place, I would consider a complete rebuild like yours, but I already have it sealed top and bottom, for this is where I tougt thedrip was comming from, but with these areas sealed, it was still dripping down the center, so with a new seal, I should be set......I can't thank you enough for all the detail pics.....doesn't seem like nothing I can't handle......
Thanks also for the part numbers when you get the chance.........
My model number doesn't seem complete, or I am missing a few....all it has is WC-6G_...and thats all there is......
Thanks so much for the pics....this gives me great input as to what I will come across......outside of the bellows and bolt removal, the seals should seat right in place, I would consider a complete rebuild like yours, but I already have it sealed top and bottom, for this is where I tougt thedrip was comming from, but with these areas sealed, it was still dripping down the center, so with a new seal, I should be set......I can't thank you enough for all the detail pics.....doesn't seem like nothing I can't handle......
Thanks also for the part numbers when you get the chance.........
My model number doesn't seem complete, or I am missing a few....all it has is WC-6G_...and thats all there is......
1-18 WASHER REBUILD
WOW Pete thanks for all the pictures of your rebuild and I love all the cool colors you and 3BW can go into competition for the flashiest machines. The one part that should not be painted over is the area where the snubber ring rides on the base pan and the bottom of the support under the transmission. These areas were designed to have a hard porcelain coating for the correct friction for proper off-balance load damping, although the spray paint may wear away quickly in these areas and not cause any real problems I would not paint these areas.
WOW Pete thanks for all the pictures of your rebuild and I love all the cool colors you and 3BW can go into competition for the flashiest machines. The one part that should not be painted over is the area where the snubber ring rides on the base pan and the bottom of the support under the transmission. These areas were designed to have a hard porcelain coating for the correct friction for proper off-balance load damping, although the spray paint may wear away quickly in these areas and not cause any real problems I would not paint these areas.
John is right about the
snubber dome, the teflon of the float ring is designed to slip with a proper amount of friction against the porcelain on the dome to damp the oscillations of the tub in spin, but like he says it will probably wear the paint away quickly.
The one thing I would go back and correct is the vent holes in that plate gasket. On the earlier machines like this one they vent the bellows seals under the jetcone, so if you have sealed them up then on the compression stroke you will be pressurizing the bellows and that will make them wear out very quickly or burst. You can see the red gasket in your photos so it should be an easy job to pull the tub and just cut through the holes to open the rubber up.
nice restore on the transmission!
jet
snubber dome, the teflon of the float ring is designed to slip with a proper amount of friction against the porcelain on the dome to damp the oscillations of the tub in spin, but like he says it will probably wear the paint away quickly.
The one thing I would go back and correct is the vent holes in that plate gasket. On the earlier machines like this one they vent the bellows seals under the jetcone, so if you have sealed them up then on the compression stroke you will be pressurizing the bellows and that will make them wear out very quickly or burst. You can see the red gasket in your photos so it should be an easy job to pull the tub and just cut through the holes to open the rubber up.
nice restore on the transmission!
jet
I have to get mine opened up and take out the agitator and tub again.........I have a feeling there is NO bottom clamp on the bellows, and this is where my water drip is comming from......
can someome post a pic of a side view of a bellows as to what this clamp looks like?...or if mine is missing?......although I am mostly sure its the main seal, because once water gets into the outter tub, it starts to drip.....
can someome post a pic of a side view of a bellows as to what this clamp looks like?...or if mine is missing?......although I am mostly sure its the main seal, because once water gets into the outter tub, it starts to drip.....
rollermatic
Well-known member
i seriously doubt you are missing
a water bellows or the clamp. i will take a pic of a water bellows and clamp for you tonite when i get in from work. i have an extra in my workroom somewhere, will find it tonite.
it is still my guess your water seal is leaking.
a water bellows or the clamp. i will take a pic of a water bellows and clamp for you tonite when i get in from work. i have an extra in my workroom somewhere, will find it tonite.
it is still my guess your water seal is leaking.
thats what I am figuring....main seal......my bellows, from the top, looks a little different than yours, it has a flat metal top over the post, and the bellows has a metal band around it....but I have to inspect the bottom one closer, probably with a mirror
Thanks Pete
Thanks Pete
simplicity345
Well-known member
Pliers
If Looking For Water Bellow Pliers And Bellows Or Other Parts I Do Have Them The Cost For The Bellows Or The Bellow Pliers Are $ 35.00 Each .
If Looking For Water Bellow Pliers And Bellows Or Other Parts I Do Have Them The Cost For The Bellows Or The Bellow Pliers Are $ 35.00 Each .
The metal band around the bottom of the bellows in the clamp.
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