'73 Frigidaire 1-18 washer; noisy bearing in spin cycle

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better view

of it.i painted it all bright lime green and home depot orange. and trimmed it in light blue.

completely took apart transmission, rollers off etc. pump off and apart. wire brushed the driver wheels (metal one's) with a wire brush in my drill. oiled all bearings even though people are probably screaming now when they read this. i always litely oil all my rollermatic bearings. haven't had any slippage yet and i have 3 out of 6 plus this 1-18 running now.

rollermatic++5-15-2011-18-57-17.jpg
 
pump sump back on

tub bottom had some rust around this area where this plastic sump bolts to it that i had to fix. gave it an extra 6 coats of paint in this area too! bottom little nipple that small plastic water pressure tube hooks to was broken off.

drilled it out with an 1/8 inch drill and simply put new plastic air tube in it and sealed it with silicone.

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I did TONS of those under warranty years ago. Used to put the new seal in place on the outer tub, line up the transmission, and pull up on the spin shaft to start the bolts. I also remember using a 2X4 as a lever, and using my foot to lift the transmission into place.

The early washers didn't use that water diverter tray. The later ones had it, so when (not IF) the washer leaked, it would divert water away from the motor.

The good ol' days......8^)
 
here is a pic

with new water seal pressed into it's plate. i think i later took those funky plastic washers out and used smaller ones. can't remember why i used them in first place, it's been a yearago since i rebuilt this 1-18.

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putting tub nut back on

when i took it off a year earlier i did not have slugging wrench yet. this wrench fits all frigidaire pulsators. 1 1/2 inch. i did not put nut back on as tight as it was originally was. i never do! that nut took me a month to get off!

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agitator back

in place. i think i made a new rubber gasket for the top pulsator nut when i put it on.

just checked machine, yes i did. again i used the rubber we sell at home depot. was afraidwater would leak around top nut and ruin all my work.

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and washing!!!

no leaks, runs great!

now let me try to track down that seal no. for you. as said i will be buying one too here in the next month when i pick up this next 1-18 from goatfarmer. i will probably take a year to restore it, just like i did this one. i like to work on them for a few weeks, then completely walk away for several months or more. they eventually get done. i have 3 more 1960's rollermatics waiting for me too.

rollermatic++5-15-2011-19-26-53.jpg
 
it looks like that seal

no is ps474733 at partselect.com. i bought it in 2009 and it was special order and 43 bucks plus tax etc. whole thing came to 50 bucks. will call them this week and see how long it takes to get them. they still show them as active. i guess frigidaire used this seal on other later model washers.
 
Pete....

Thanks so much for the pics....this gives me great input as to what I will come across......outside of the bellows and bolt removal, the seals should seat right in place, I would consider a complete rebuild like yours, but I already have it sealed top and bottom, for this is where I tougt thedrip was comming from, but with these areas sealed, it was still dripping down the center, so with a new seal, I should be set......I can't thank you enough for all the detail pics.....doesn't seem like nothing I can't handle......

Thanks also for the part numbers when you get the chance.........

My model number doesn't seem complete, or I am missing a few....all it has is WC-6G_...and thats all there is......
 
1-18 WASHER REBUILD

WOW Pete thanks for all the pictures of your rebuild and I love all the cool colors you and 3BW can go into competition for the flashiest machines. The one part that should not be painted over is the area where the snubber ring rides on the base pan and the bottom of the support under the transmission. These areas were designed to have a hard porcelain coating for the correct friction for proper off-balance load damping, although the spray paint may wear away quickly in these areas and not cause any real problems I would not paint these areas.
 
John is right about the

snubber dome, the teflon of the float ring is designed to slip with a proper amount of friction against the porcelain on the dome to damp the oscillations of the tub in spin, but like he says it will probably wear the paint away quickly.

 

The one thing I would go back and correct is the vent holes in that plate gasket. On the earlier machines like this one they vent the bellows seals under the jetcone, so if you have sealed them up then on the compression stroke you will be pressurizing the bellows and that will make them wear out very quickly or burst. You can see the red gasket in your photos so it should be an easy job to pull the tub and just cut through the holes to open the rubber up.

 

nice restore on the transmission!

jet
 
I have to get mine opened up and take out the agitator and tub again.........I have a feeling there is NO bottom clamp on the bellows, and this is where my water drip is comming from......

can someome post a pic of a side view of a bellows as to what this clamp looks like?...or if mine is missing?......although I am mostly sure its the main seal, because once water gets into the outter tub, it starts to drip.....
 
i seriously doubt you are missing

a water bellows or the clamp. i will take a pic of a water bellows and clamp for you tonite when i get in from work. i have an extra in my workroom somewhere, will find it tonite.

it is still my guess your water seal is leaking.
 

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