Finally got back to working on the WO-65-2 this evening. Tonight I prepared the top, checked the timer and water valve out...
A Cavalcade of WO-65-2 Unimatics - Part IV
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Cleaning the filth away
Evening showers...
Evening showers...
Yuk, its a gonner
Poor little water valve...
Poor little water valve...
Much easier, more to come tomorrow. I'm looking forward to the first water test tomorrow!
Robert:
Thank you V M. I find your posts hugely informative and great learning experiences.
If there is a problem, it is that it leaves me thirsty for more....
Keep it flowing...
Thank you V M. I find your posts hugely informative and great learning experiences.
If there is a problem, it is that it leaves me thirsty for more....
Keep it flowing...
Robert-----
I will go after the cabinet on my '55 soon and the water valve is one of the items I will have to decide what to do with. I have already threatened to replace it with a "universal" type valve. The "thermostatic" one you picture is interesting. Are they available from most parts stores or are they something only one company offers?
I will go after the cabinet on my '55 soon and the water valve is one of the items I will have to decide what to do with. I have already threatened to replace it with a "universal" type valve. The "thermostatic" one you picture is interesting. Are they available from most parts stores or are they something only one company offers?
Hi Steve, no the water valve I have pictured is a new-old-stock (about 35-40 years old) hot/warm valve. A hot/warm valve has two solenoids just like a modern valve, but the timer never energizes both solenoids at the same time. The warm solenoid mixes hot and cold to provide thermostatically controlled 100F degree warm water. This valve was made for washers with only a hot or warm temperature setting.
If you replace the valve in your '55 with a modern water valve it will be a hot/cold valve. So your water temperature will be tap hot if you select "hot" and tap cold if you select "warm". I don't believe thermostatic water valves are available anymore, Maytag might still have some, but I'm not sure. I think Larry at Modern Parts House has some left too, but they are not cheap.
Another thing to remember if you use a modern water valve in any solid basket washer, there will be no water-flow restrictor in the line, so if you don’t add one, the washer will fill way too fast and overflow many extra gallons of water into the outer tub and down the drain before agitation begins. You can easily add a flow restrictor and I will show everyone how as I’m going to that on the WO-65-2 tonight.
If you replace the valve in your '55 with a modern water valve it will be a hot/cold valve. So your water temperature will be tap hot if you select "hot" and tap cold if you select "warm". I don't believe thermostatic water valves are available anymore, Maytag might still have some, but I'm not sure. I think Larry at Modern Parts House has some left too, but they are not cheap.
Another thing to remember if you use a modern water valve in any solid basket washer, there will be no water-flow restrictor in the line, so if you don’t add one, the washer will fill way too fast and overflow many extra gallons of water into the outer tub and down the drain before agitation begins. You can easily add a flow restrictor and I will show everyone how as I’m going to that on the WO-65-2 tonight.
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Robert ... this is looking familiar!! 
Thank you for posting these pics; it can help in any restoration.
Was your timer OK?
Thank you for posting these pics; it can help in any restoration.
Was your timer OK?
Work continues on the WO-65-2
Geoff as for the timer I had two of them thankfully to work with, one from each WO-65-2. One timer had a dead spot in the last increment of fill, the other timer had a bad timer motor and motor protector. So I took the best parts of both and made one good, working timer.
Les, yes you are correct. The WO-65-2 introduced in 1952 was the first year that Frigidaire introduced their overflow wash and overflow deep rinse and got ride of the second deep rinse.
Work continues on the WO-65-2 tonight. First I installed a nice safe three prong grounding cord. I cut off the old cord and matched the black wire from the washer's wiring harness with the black wire in the new cord, I matched the white wire with the wiring harness with the white wire from the cord and then comes the grounding part. I cut two brand news wires (colored blue because I was out of green wire) and secured each one to a metal screw on the cabinet. I did secured one on the lower cabinet and one on the top/control panel. I used two grounding wires because there is a rubber gasket between the top and the cabinet which could prevent loose electricity from traveling from the top down to the cabinet and vice versa. So with two ground wires the entire machine is protected…
Geoff as for the timer I had two of them thankfully to work with, one from each WO-65-2. One timer had a dead spot in the last increment of fill, the other timer had a bad timer motor and motor protector. So I took the best parts of both and made one good, working timer.
Les, yes you are correct. The WO-65-2 introduced in 1952 was the first year that Frigidaire introduced their overflow wash and overflow deep rinse and got ride of the second deep rinse.
Work continues on the WO-65-2 tonight. First I installed a nice safe three prong grounding cord. I cut off the old cord and matched the black wire from the washer's wiring harness with the black wire in the new cord, I matched the white wire with the wiring harness with the white wire from the cord and then comes the grounding part. I cut two brand news wires (colored blue because I was out of green wire) and secured each one to a metal screw on the cabinet. I did secured one on the lower cabinet and one on the top/control panel. I used two grounding wires because there is a rubber gasket between the top and the cabinet which could prevent loose electricity from traveling from the top down to the cabinet and vice versa. So with two ground wires the entire machine is protected…
YAY for Electrical Safety.
Now for the water valve. In all timed fill washers there needs to be a water flow restrictor installed in the valve, so the right water level will fill no matter if there is a drop in water pressure in the house. Normally it should take about 2 minutes to fill a Frigidaire 8lb tub, but with a water line restrictor it doubles the fill time to 4 minutes so the proper amount of water can be obtained without overfilling and wasting water. So I installed the new valve and purchased this inexpensive water gate valve at my local Ace Hardware. I then attach this valve on the incoming water fill line at a point past the water valve so both hot and warm water will fill at the same rate no matter what else is running in the house. It wont work to just turn down the pressure at the wall faucets because if you flush the toilet, you will lose pressure in cold and hot retains full pressure and vice versa if you start the dishwasher you lose hot pressure which will make for variable water level fills at different times. If you install a flow restrictor (it is built right into the old valve) you can adjust then pressure of the incoming water. I like to adjust it so it overfills for 10 to 15 seconds before wash begins just to add a little water to the pump for lubrication.
Flow Valve installed and operating
The Vacuum Breaker
Close up view of the vacuum breaker as required by US plumbing codes starting in the middle of 1947. The earliest of automatics didn’t have a vacuum breaker!
Close up view of the vacuum breaker as required by US plumbing codes starting in the middle of 1947. The earliest of automatics didn’t have a vacuum breaker!
Things are looking good, tomorrow, the First Wash!
Filling away
Filling away
westytoploader
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Excellent work!!
WOOHOO!!! Everything's looking really good...great job!!! Can't wait to see the first wash!
What was the idea behind the vacuum breaker/air gap, and why was it required? I have always wondered why the hose doesn't go directly from the water valve into the fill nozzle with no air gap. Which early automatics didn't have these?
WOOHOO!!! Everything's looking really good...great job!!! Can't wait to see the first wash!
What was the idea behind the vacuum breaker/air gap, and why was it required? I have always wondered why the hose doesn't go directly from the water valve into the fill nozzle with no air gap. Which early automatics didn't have these?
westytoploader
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And another point covered--the thermostatic water valve!! Learn something new every day...
I fired up the WI-57 at the Convention, and when I put the temperature selector on "Warm" (the load was mainly dark clothes) it alternated between hot and cold. I couldn't figure out the idea behind this, however, as a result the water was an even temperature when agitation started. Now I know!
I fired up the WI-57 at the Convention, and when I put the temperature selector on "Warm" (the load was mainly dark clothes) it alternated between hot and cold. I couldn't figure out the idea behind this, however, as a result the water was an even temperature when agitation started. Now I know!
Wow Robert! It is coming alone just great.I can hardly wait to see it wash!! Those vacuum breaks are there to prevent contamination of the fresh water supply,through a siphon condition out of the wash tub, caused by a loss of water pressure from the FWS.
Those vacuum breaks are there to prevent contamination of the fresh water supply,through a siphon condition out of the wash tub, caused by a loss of water pressure from the FWS.Thermostatic water valves are great IMO. They can regulate the water temp to a gentle warm. Just right for colors,without the worry of fading of the materials. The warm setting on the machines w/o this special valve can vary between too warm and too cold. Depending on other water usage in the house,and the last time the gas water heater cycled. These thermostatic valves were a very good idea. I think the extra $$$ it cost the appliance manufactures must have killed the use of these water valves.
