And there was some 'damage in transit' from a move before I bought this washer. Good news, though, I know my parts guy kept the top from that defunct V-14. I may just be able to swap it...
Odd that the push buttons of the dryer don't match the flip switches on the washer.
I have never seen the 'High Speed' 'Economy' and 'Damp' settings before. My guess would be 'HIGH' 'MEDIUM' and 'LOW' heats. No 'Air' cycle on this one - the V12 I grew up with had that...
I'll come back to this later, but if I had followed my gut instinct of connecting the red wire to the red terminal and the black wire to the black terminal and hooked this up to a standard 220v plug, I would've had a nasty surprise!!
It did't take me long to find it... Note the cracks in the filter-flo return hose. I am hoping they still make these! This will be my next mission... LOL
Just for the heck of it, I decided to try to pull the activator out. Well, it popped out on the first try!
This made me wish I could get back to 1973 when a GE technician told my mother that they'd have to break the activator to be able to repair an oil leak...
So the last thing I did today was to recheck the wiring diagram of the dryer... They were pretty darn vague, I think. No indication of which 'hot' lead is the 110 and which is the 220! Anyway, I made notes... LOL
Next weekend, I hope to be able to tear into the dryer. I like to clean and re-lube a dryer of this vintage (and I have had practice on a few GE's so that helps).
I am little behind in my appliance repairs... AND I have to figure out what to do with the Inglis washer and dryer set - they need work, I think I can fix 'em, but I am short on time and space... Oh, what to do...
Paul,
Do you plan have it wired for a 110V circuit? I think it's pretty well explained. I just don't know what the gray wire is for but I'm sure other members can explain or send a detailed wiring diagram! I'm wondering if this dryer is designed to work on the automatic cycle too with a 110 volts connection?
If you want to run it on 220V, it's also nicely explained! The potential difference between the two hot wires (red and black) is 220V (or 236V!) and the white neutral combined with either the red or the black (in this case, the red one) gives you 110V for the motor/timer/light.
Just don't forget to remove the internal ground wire to the neutral terminal (if it's not already done!) as we can't have a combined ground/neutral here!
I'm wondering if any 220V/240V dryer could be converted to 110V? In the following link, someone posted that older GE and Whirlpool-made dryers could. How about the other brands?[this post was last edited: 5/14/2012-00:56]
That's a really beautiful set! The washer sounds great in the video and the small leak should be easy to fix, I just love those black rubber filter-flo spouts!