A506 Maytag washer

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petemo

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2018
Messages
15
Location
Sheridan, Wyo
Hi, Our A506 Maytag was making a knocking noise during the spin cycle. So I replaced the tub bearing and bushing. Now it will not spin and I noticed water leaking. From what I could see the damper pads look to be in good condition, I have greased them through the years. I figured the tub bearing was going so I replaced it. I really don't want to get a new washer. We bought the washer and dryer in 1987. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated by me and my wife. Thanks
 
Maybe it's an issue with a spring or other stabilizing component.  Bearing replacement is a precise operation, so the leak may indicate there's an issue with how the replacement procedure was executed.

 

I'm pretty sure a Maytag with a model number ending in "06" would have been produced several years prior to 1987, but it would be mechanically the same as an '87 Maytag with a pre-orbital transmission.
 
Thank you for your reply. Yes, I'm discovering that bearing replacement is a precise operation. I will be taking apart the washer again. I started with a small knocking when the washer was in spin and after replacing the spin bearing I ended with the same knocking plus water leaking, perhaps from the hose with the hard to get to clamp and now the agitator doesn't spin. The battle has just begun!
Interesting enough I found the original bill of sale. On April 7, 1988 we purchased the washer and dryer from Robohm Appliance and Television in Englewood, Colorado. The Maytag A506H washer was $529. and the Maytag DE312D dryer cost $420. We also purchased an Amana TH20JW refrigerator for $750. We should of kept that fridge. That seems pretty pricey back then!
Attached are pictures of the original Maytag brochure.

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Ralph, let me throw a monkey wrench in it for you. This is the old resurrect4ed thread I found this in. Feast you eyes on the crazy numbers.

 
Wow Bob, I sure would like to know the logic behind those model numbers, not to mention the four different types of capacities when I'm pretty sure there were only ever two.
 
Knocking noise could be from the tub bearing, one of the 3 tub to spring support bolts, or the pressure switch hose banging against the cabinet (make sure it's fitted inside the clip).

As for no spin, you probably installed the top cover all the way down against the inner tub. There must be proper and even spacing between those.

You need to describe the location of the leak or take pictures and post them up.
 
Pete, my knowledge isn't hands-on, but rather from reading past posts here.   All I've ever done is replace a pump and the belts on my '87 Maytag A712. 

 

You described a knocking sound as opposed to a banging sound, so the original problem could have been something as simple as a worn belt, but I have a feeling you checked that.  There was a recent thread that contained a video clip of a Maytag with the motor going spastic on its glides and making a loud ka-chunk noise that sped up as the RPM increased when the washer went into spin.  The cause was just a chewed up belt.

 

The tub springs usually last the life of the machine, but you never know.  There's no shortage of Maytag experts here who are far more qualified than I am and can do more than just speculate.  Give this thread some time and one of them will likely contribute their knowledge.  In the meantime, you can do a search here that could turn up a thread that speaks to your issue.

 

One thing is for sure.  Your A506 has effectively disproved the final post in the thread that Bob linked to above.

 

 
 
Thank you qsd-dan and RP2813. The washer does spin now! Yes, the tub cover was all the way down on the inner tub preventing it from spinning. I raised the tub cover and now the tub spins. Although, with no load and after about 15 seconds of spin the knocking returns and the agitator goes bit out of round. I have a 30 second clip of this with the noise but could not find a way to attach it to the message.
A few days ago, I replaced the tub bearing and sleeve. The original tub bearing and sleeve looked in good condition. I do not think they were at fault. The three tub to spring support bolts and springs are good and solid. Now, I haven't replaced the drive belts. They look in good shape. The picture shows rubber residue but I think that might be normal wear. The motor and the glides are good. The original clamp ( see pictures ) for the pressure switch hose I could not place on so I used a radiator hose type clamp. The leak could be coming from that hose, more on that later as I diagnose. I am wondering if the damper pads are suspect? FYI, three years ago I replace a bearing on the brake assembly because I was getting oil thrown.
I really appreciate your replies and interest! The washer feels like part of the family🙂 and now with an empty nest the washer does not get that much use. And I surely do not want to get another washer.

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Videos cannot be uploaded directly into a post.  They must be placed on a sharing service such as YouTube or Vimeo, etc. and linked into the post.  Most here use YouTube.  The board software recognizes standard YouTube URLs and automatically embeds the video (be sure it's not set unlisted or for private viewing).  You'll see the video in the post preview if it's linked properly.
 
about 15 seconds of spin the knocking returns

Did you carefully center the inner wash basket tub and spin test to confirm its not contacting the outer tub before reassembling?

Also, highly unlikely the damper pads are the problem (especially if they were lubed in the past) nor the tub support braces or springs. The belt debris could from the belt burning when the spin tub was jammed by the tub cover.

You need to slow down, stop throwing parts at it and isolated the problem.
 
You need to slow down, stop throwing parts at it and isolate

Yes, I think the belt residue is likely from the tub cover being on top of the spin tub too tightly. I will check whether the the inner wash basket tub is centered. Fortunately, I have the time and the basement is a cool place to work in. Thank you and I will update as I progress.
 
Here is a clip of the noise.

Looks like you've got the tub centered pretty good already.

The noise is more a metallic rattle rather than a knock.

I'd try to isolate the noise with the front panel off to find the general area where its coming from.

Others here could probably diagnose by the sound alone.
 
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