A506 Maytag washer

[petemo]

Hi, Our A506 Maytag was making a knocking noise during the spin cycle. So I replaced the tub bearing and bushing. Now it will not spin and I noticed water leaking. From what I could see the damper pads look to be in good condition, I have greased them through the years. I figured the tub bearing was going so I replaced it. I really don't want to get a new washer. We bought the washer and dryer in 1987. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated by me and my wife. Thanks

 

[rp2813]

Maybe it's an issue with a spring or other stabilizing component.  Bearing replacement is a precise operation, so the leak may indicate there's an issue with how the replacement procedure was executed.

 

I'm pretty sure a Maytag with a model number ending in "06" would have been produced several years prior to 1987, but it would be mechanically the same as an '87 Maytag with a pre-orbital transmission.

 

[appnut]

Ralph, here's a picture I found online from the archives courtesy of Bajaespuma in 2006.

 

[rp2813]

Very interesting Bob.

 

 

[appnut]

Thank you. I'd say this washer is from years 1984-1987.

 

[petemo]

Thank you for your reply. Yes, I'm discovering that bearing replacement is a precise operation. I will be taking apart the washer again. I started with a small knocking when the washer was in spin and after replacing the spin bearing I ended with the same knocking plus water leaking, perhaps from the hose with the hard to get to clamp and now the agitator doesn't spin. The battle has just begun!
Interesting enough I found the original bill of sale. On April 7, 1988 we purchased the washer and dryer from Robohm Appliance and Television in Englewood, Colorado. The Maytag A506H washer was $529. and the Maytag DE312D dryer cost $420. We also purchased an Amana TH20JW refrigerator for $750. We should of kept that fridge. That seems pretty pricey back then!
Attached are pictures of the original Maytag brochure.

 

[rp2813]

I've given up on ever understanding Maytag's model numbering system.

 

[appnut]

Ralph, let me throw a monkey wrench in it for you. This is the old resurrect4ed thread I found this in. Feast you eyes on the crazy numbers.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?6804

 

[rp2813]

Wow Bob, I sure would like to know the logic behind those model numbers, not to mention the four different types of capacities when I'm pretty sure there were only ever two.

 

[petemo]

Sannazay, would you elaborate, "Maybe it's an issue with a spring or other stabilizing component?" Thank you

 

[qsd-dan]

Knocking noise could be from the tub bearing, one of the 3 tub to spring support bolts, or the pressure switch hose banging against the cabinet (make sure it's fitted inside the clip).

As for no spin, you probably installed the top cover all the way down against the inner tub. There must be proper and even spacing between those.

You need to describe the location of the leak or take pictures and post them up.

 

[rp2813]

Pete, my knowledge isn't hands-on, but rather from reading past posts here.   All I've ever done is replace a pump and the belts on my '87 Maytag A712. 

 

You described a knocking sound as opposed to a banging sound, so the original problem could have been something as simple as a worn belt, but I have a feeling you checked that.  There was a recent thread that contained a video clip of a Maytag with the motor going spastic on its glides and making a loud ka-chunk noise that sped up as the RPM increased when the washer went into spin.  The cause was just a chewed up belt.

 

The tub springs usually last the life of the machine, but you never know.  There's no shortage of Maytag experts here who are far more qualified than I am and can do more than just speculate.  Give this thread some time and one of them will likely contribute their knowledge.  In the meantime, you can do a search here that could turn up a thread that speaks to your issue.

 

One thing is for sure.  Your A506 has effectively disproved the final post in the thread that Bob linked to above.

 

 

 

[petemo]

Thank you qsd-dan and RP2813. The washer does spin now! Yes, the tub cover was all the way down on the inner tub preventing it from spinning. I raised the tub cover and now the tub spins. Although, with no load and after about 15 seconds of spin the knocking returns and the agitator goes bit out of round. I have a 30 second clip of this with the noise but could not find a way to attach it to the message.
A few days ago, I replaced the tub bearing and sleeve. The original tub bearing and sleeve looked in good condition. I do not think they were at fault. The three tub to spring support bolts and springs are good and solid. Now, I haven't replaced the drive belts. They look in good shape. The picture shows rubber residue but I think that might be normal wear. The motor and the glides are good. The original clamp ( see pictures ) for the pressure switch hose I could not place on so I used a radiator hose type clamp. The leak could be coming from that hose, more on that later as I diagnose. I am wondering if the damper pads are suspect? FYI, three years ago I replace a bearing on the brake assembly because I was getting oil thrown.
I really appreciate your replies and interest! The washer feels like part of the family and now with an empty nest the washer does not get that much use. And I surely do not want to get another washer.

 

[DADoES]

 
Videos cannot be uploaded directly into a post.  They must be placed on a sharing service such as YouTube or Vimeo, etc. and linked into the post.  Most here use YouTube.  The board software recognizes standard YouTube URLs and automatically embeds the video (be sure it's not set unlisted or for private viewing).  You'll see the video in the post preview if it's linked properly.

 

[good-shepherd]

about 15 seconds of spin the knocking returns

Did you carefully center the inner wash basket tub and spin test to confirm its not contacting the outer tub before reassembling?

Also, highly unlikely the damper pads are the problem (especially if they were lubed in the past) nor the tub support braces or springs. The belt debris could from the belt burning when the spin tub was jammed by the tub cover.

You need to slow down, stop throwing parts at it and isolated the problem.

 

[petemo]

You need to slow down, stop throwing parts at it and isolate

Yes, I think the belt residue is likely from the tub cover being on top of the spin tub too tightly. I will check whether the the inner wash basket tub is centered. Fortunately, I have the time and the basement is a cool place to work in. Thank you and I will update as I progress.

 

[petemo]

Here is a clip of the noise.

 

[good-shepherd]

Here is a clip of the noise.

Looks like you've got the tub centered pretty good already.

The noise is more a metallic rattle rather than a knock.

I'd try to isolate the noise with the front panel off to find the general area where its coming from.

Others here could probably diagnose by the sound alone.

 

[wayupnorth]

I had a somewhat similar noise caused by a bad motor pulley on my 511. Although mine did it in both wash and spin.

 

[swedesapplserv]

It seems that the rattle doesn't have a rhythm that matches the tub. I can see when the agitator starts to wobble the sound accompanies the motion. On service I would put my hands on the tub supports and springs as it shook and felt for vibration, and if lucky would dampen the rattle at the right part. For something that loud, pinning it down should be a step by step process.

 

[qsd-dan]

That knocking noise is either the inner tub contacting the upper cover (needs to be spaced higher) or the inner tub is not properly centered between the outer tub.

Centering the inner tub is CRITICAL to proper operation. It's not just noise front contacting other components, it's minimizing vibration. A perfectly centered tub will VASTLY increase tub bearing life, decrease time required to empty a tub of water, and decrease the possibly of water logging due to the buildup of water between the inner and outer tub from gyration (commonly referred as "sucks locking" on this forum, which is incorrect. Yes, there is a difference between the two!).

Every written piece of material and video I have ever come across never stresses the importance of center the inner tub, most of the time, not even mentioning it. Just drop the tub in and tighten the nut. They also fail to mention that tightening the nut has a tendency to throw the inner tub off center, so always re-check, then re-check again.

Tape the lid down, remove the 2 bolts, and swing the top up. Remove the tub cover. Plug the machine in and select spin. WATCH the inner for a dead on smooth operation from ramp up to top speed. Loosen the lock nut and carefully shift the tub, tighten down he nut, and recheck until it spins butter smooth from dead stop to top speed. This can take many attempts and a lot of time, but worth every second. ALWAYS recheck after touching the nut. It's an easy process on machines from 1966-2006, a royal PITA on pre '66 machines since the top does not pivot.

You still haven't mention where the water leak is coming from. Next question, did you preplace the stem/boot seal during the process? If not, go back in there and do it. A leaking stem/boot seal will quickly destroy a tub bearing from water contamination.

 

[petemo]

Thank you for your replies.
I believe the inner tub is not properly centered between the outer tub. In the video the noise goes away when I center the tub with both hands.The load has two wet towels.
I wonder what caused the tub to go out of round? Previously, the tub cover and inner tub had never been opened up.
The water leak might have been my imagination influenced by my frustration. I'll check on it.
Incidentally, I know that when I push forward on the motor a slight secondary noise goes away.

 

[good-shepherd]

I wonder what caused the tub to go out of round

I assume you mean the outer tub.

It can get bent out of shape, the metal is not very thick. My A712 is like that.

You might try very carefully pushing/sqeezing the tub by hand to reduce the high spot/s.

 

[petemo]

qsd-dan, Can you explain what you mean: "Just drop the tub in and tighten the nut. They also fail to mention that tightening the nut has a tendency to throw the inner tub off center"
Do you mean not to over tighten the nut?
Yes, I will replace the tub seal. I am waiting for parts to arrive, hopefully this weekend.
In the picture of the stem, there is an o-ring and spring. The o-ring appears to be in good shape.
Thanks

 

[combo52]

Leaking Helical Drive MT

The spring is part of the original agitator shaft seal, it should be thrown away it should not be there.

 

What style mounting stem and agitator seal did you use ? the newer improved lip seal or the older one with the internal spring ?

 

John L.

 

[petemo]

Well, that is good to know, thanks combo52!

I used the new and improved tub bearing.The picture is of the old tub bearing.
So after I put washer back together with the spring and new style bearing it leaked. I noticed water on the floor of the washer. The spring was probably the culprit.

 

[petemo]

tub seal

I am having difficulty getting the locking nut to thread on the inner tub. I noticed that on the new seal it has a rubber seal whereas the old seal does not. See picture. I cannot get the seal to go down far enough . When I tighten the set screw it bites into threads above the grove where it's supposed to go. Do I need to remove something to give enough threads?

 

[good-shepherd]

Huh?

You're doing something wrong.

Read though this thread: https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?25520

 

[petemo]

Yes Good Shepherd, bonehead mistake, I placed the lock collar on top of the outer tub before placing the spin tub in and that does not work. It needs to go on the inside of the spin tub.

Good news though, I fixed the knocking sound, one of the tub spring bolts had loosened itself by 1/4 inch. I took off the brake assembly and was going to replace the damper pads but they are in fine shape. I also replaced the springs on the motor mount, belts are in good shape, replaced the tub bearing and seal. I was looking and wondering why the outer tub was so cockeyed and then I noticed one of the back springs was not collapsed enough. I tightened the spring down.
Just having the machine not knock feels like an huge accomplishment!
But now it leaks badly from the bottom of the outer tub. I will take the washer apart and check placement of the tub seal. I will post more as I go along, thanks for your help and to this forum.

 

[petemo]

Purrs like a kitten

Success!

Our 1987 Maytag washer 506 works like a charm now.

After replacing the tub seal and bearing ( stem and boot ), the injector, two belts and the motor springs, I think ultimately the knocking during spin was caused from the loosening of one of the tub springs by at least 3/4 of an inch. After 34 years of use I am glad I could keep her in operation.

And for those contemplating a job such as this -my advice- be patient and ask plenty of questions on this forum, dumb or not. As a novice this job really challenged me! The knowledge and advice here is invaluable.

Thank you automatic washer.org!