A506 Maytag washer

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It seems that the rattle doesn't have a rhythm that matches the tub. I can see when the agitator starts to wobble the sound accompanies the motion. On service I would put my hands on the tub supports and springs as it shook and felt for vibration, and if lucky would dampen the rattle at the right part. For something that loud, pinning it down should be a step by step process.
 
That knocking noise is either the inner tub contacting the upper cover (needs to be spaced higher) or the inner tub is not properly centered between the outer tub.

Centering the inner tub is CRITICAL to proper operation. It's not just noise front contacting other components, it's minimizing vibration. A perfectly centered tub will VASTLY increase tub bearing life, decrease time required to empty a tub of water, and decrease the possibly of water logging due to the buildup of water between the inner and outer tub from gyration (commonly referred as "sucks locking" on this forum, which is incorrect. Yes, there is a difference between the two!).

Every written piece of material and video I have ever come across never stresses the importance of center the inner tub, most of the time, not even mentioning it. Just drop the tub in and tighten the nut. They also fail to mention that tightening the nut has a tendency to throw the inner tub off center, so always re-check, then re-check again.

Tape the lid down, remove the 2 bolts, and swing the top up. Remove the tub cover. Plug the machine in and select spin. WATCH the inner for a dead on smooth operation from ramp up to top speed. Loosen the lock nut and carefully shift the tub, tighten down he nut, and recheck until it spins butter smooth from dead stop to top speed. This can take many attempts and a lot of time, but worth every second. ALWAYS recheck after touching the nut. It's an easy process on machines from 1966-2006, a royal PITA on pre '66 machines since the top does not pivot.

You still haven't mention where the water leak is coming from. Next question, did you preplace the stem/boot seal during the process? If not, go back in there and do it. A leaking stem/boot seal will quickly destroy a tub bearing from water contamination.
 
Thank you for your replies.
I believe the inner tub is not properly centered between the outer tub. In the video the noise goes away when I center the tub with both hands.The load has two wet towels.
I wonder what caused the tub to go out of round? Previously, the tub cover and inner tub had never been opened up.
The water leak might have been my imagination influenced by my frustration. I'll check on it.
Incidentally, I know that when I push forward on the motor a slight secondary noise goes away.

 
I wonder what caused the tub to go out of round

I assume you mean the outer tub.

It can get bent out of shape, the metal is not very thick. My A712 is like that.

You might try very carefully pushing/sqeezing the tub by hand to reduce the high spot/s.
 
qsd-dan, Can you explain what you mean: "Just drop the tub in and tighten the nut. They also fail to mention that tightening the nut has a tendency to throw the inner tub off center"
Do you mean not to over tighten the nut?
Yes, I will replace the tub seal. I am waiting for parts to arrive, hopefully this weekend.
In the picture of the stem, there is an o-ring and spring. The o-ring appears to be in good shape.
Thanks

petemo-2021072714151702419_1.jpg
 
Leaking Helical Drive MT

The spring is part of the original agitator shaft seal, it should be thrown away it should not be there.

 

What style mounting stem and agitator seal did you use ? the newer improved lip seal or the older one with the internal spring ?

 

John L.
 
Well, that is good to know, thanks combo52!

I used the new and improved tub bearing.The picture is of the old tub bearing.
So after I put washer back together with the spring and new style bearing it leaked. I noticed water on the floor of the washer. The spring was probably the culprit.

petemo-2021072720205509353_1.jpg
 
tub seal

I am having difficulty getting the locking nut to thread on the inner tub. I noticed that on the new seal it has a rubber seal whereas the old seal does not. See picture. I cannot get the seal to go down far enough . When I tighten the set screw it bites into threads above the grove where it's supposed to go. Do I need to remove something to give enough threads?

petemo-2021073018221408690_1.jpg
 
Yes Good Shepherd, bonehead mistake, I placed the lock collar on top of the outer tub before placing the spin tub in and that does not work.🤨 It needs to go on the inside of the spin tub.

Good news though, I fixed the knocking sound, one of the tub spring bolts had loosened itself by 1/4 inch. I took off the brake assembly and was going to replace the damper pads but they are in fine shape. I also replaced the springs on the motor mount, belts are in good shape, replaced the tub bearing and seal. I was looking and wondering why the outer tub was so cockeyed and then I noticed one of the back springs was not collapsed enough. I tightened the spring down.
Just having the machine not knock feels like an huge accomplishment!
But now it leaks badly from the bottom of the outer tub. I will take the washer apart and check placement of the tub seal. I will post more as I go along, thanks for your help and to this forum.
 
Purrs like a kitten

Success!

Our 1987 Maytag washer 506 works like a charm now.

After replacing the tub seal and bearing ( stem and boot ), the injector, two belts and the motor springs, I think ultimately the knocking during spin was caused from the loosening of one of the tub springs by at least 3/4 of an inch. After 34 years of use I am glad I could keep her in operation.

And for those contemplating a job such as this -my advice- be patient and ask plenty of questions on this forum, dumb or not. As a novice this job really challenged me! The knowledge and advice here is invaluable.

Thank you automatic washer.org!

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