A806 A702 Project

[Sudster]

I have torn down the A702 with the A806 internals that came to me through Ben & Tyler. The buildup on the outer tub brought out the worst in me. I even used Hydrochloric acid ,plastic spatula tools and stiff brushes. It worked but there's a couple rusty pitted areas I will have to deal with.

 

For those who scoff at the brake removal tool,I wish you had been there. I drenched 2 shirts with sweat and the only way I got it loose was a jack stand sideways under the transmission , The next day I found my brake tool!!! There was what looked like white pipe dope on the threads.see pics

 

I will add more info as it goes along, Also the tub bolt washers were pure flat lead washers ???

 

[Sudster]

A806 A702 project

 Base painted with legs & rubber feet. Lots of prep,sanding and sweat. Motor carriage glides and springs with the motor being lightly painted and adding an oil port for the wick. Brand new NOS transmission with the new style bottom seal. The wiring was not cut,Those pigtails are just in case the sticker flies away. This is a lot of work as most of you know. It is fun and rewarding though.  The tub drama is coming soon.

 

[eurekastar]

Wow!  You must be the luckiest man in the world to find a NOS transmission!  I look forward to seeing the finished project!

 

[Sudster]

LUCKY--OK

Thanks Bill,

 

                I'm unsure if lucky or cursed is the right descriptive in this case. I have been storing parts for these machines for many years in anticipation of this event. I have read and studied multiple threads and gathered what I liked and what I didn't concerning the restoration of these machines. I am building the A806 from true internals yet using an A108 cabinet and an A806 console & wiring. Mechanically it will be a true A806 although I will slightly modify the timed bleach dispenser ,trim,and tub lighting. Stay tuned it will be a blast, I guarantee it.--Joe

                

 

[combo52]

A806 Rebuild

Looking Good Joseph, I looked and we do not have the Chrome trim you Emailed me about for the top of the front panels.

 

For your ultimate rebuild I would look for a round or even a square Emerson motor, they were quieter running than the welded together GE motors, definitely add a start capacitor as well so you can achieve proper belt adjustments without excessive belt slip during agitation.

 

What  went wrong trying to remove the brake assembly ?

 

It is a simple 5 step process

 

1 Lay washer on side & remove main drive pulley.

 

2 Remove locking bolt and clip.

 

3 spray a little penetrating oil on brake assembly threads.

 

4 Take a large locking vise-grip pliers and lock it on the edge of the brake assembly [ just ahead of one of the screws that hold the brake together if it the older style BA ]

 

5 take at least a 16 oz hammer and one or two blows on the side of the Vice-Grip jaws has always removed the BA easily.

 

John L.

 

[Sudster]

Thanks for looking John,

 

  That brake removal was a bear and I have no logical explanation. The A108 brake was knocked loose with 3 whacks but this one was so tough I deformed it. It looked as though it had white pipe sealant when assembled.I'll just use the 108 brake.

 

I do believe I have that Emerson motor on my A310 but it is currently in use and since this one has been lubed and bolted on, I will run it til the cows come home.

 

I appreciate you and all who make this possible.Without all those rebuild threads, I wouldn't think of trying this.After many years of reading, I am on it! thanks--Joe

 

[qsd-dan]

Looks like it's coming along nicely.

I assume you're going to POR15 the outer tub? It's the best way to preserve it from rust.

Nice job polishing the aluminum damper. I polish them with a brass wire wheel, clean, then clear coat to retain its luster.

Check and clean the bleach tank and hoses. It's common for the lower port to plug up, which will cause water to flow backwards and pour out of the bleach dispenser during the spin cycle.

The motor looks like a 1980's GE 2 speed 1/3 horsepower unit. You can upgrade to a 1/2 hp motor that Maytag used the last 10 years of the Dependable Care washer line.

Nice score on an NOS transmission!

I would highly recommend purchasing a new brake package. They are still available new and probably won't be around much longer. The first 3 complete rebuilds I did, I reused the old brake package and they were all soon slipping, if not immediately after the rebuild. The internal spring gets weak after decades of being under tension and can't hold the tub stationary. Replacing them was SOP after that but I was swiping them from ebay for $15-$25 back then (they're pushing $100 now). I have experimented with disassembling older non-sealed brake packages and shimming the spring with washers, successfully regaining lost spring tension.....if you want to go that route.

Just an FYI, you assembled the sliding baseplate on the motor backwards. It's currently setup to clutch the opposite direction. Also, the ground wire attaches to the right rear motor stud between the motor and baseplate. You currently have it in the right front stud.

There's only one person on this forum who has yet to learn how to use a Maytag brake tool. I have had 100% success using one for the last 15 years and would never be without it!

 

[Sudster]

Thanks Dan,

 

        That motor carriage makes me feel like a fool . Of course I would have caught it  but still--That's dumb .

 

  I opted for the KBS system for the outer tub which was a runny mess and probably won't be included in the photo lineup .I had read that folks believed por-15 was not the same as years ago so I phoned KBS  and they talked me into it . I regret it now but it's coated .

 

 On your advice I'll get a new brake because this will be my main machine .Will  you please outline the details on shimming the brake? I know how to safely disassemble it but the shim size etc. would be nice to know.  One of these machines around here is getting that A108 brake-Period

 

John also brought up increasing the motor HP-  What does it improve and why have these old 1/3hp models lasted 30 years?

 

Finally--Please discuss proper brake tool useage

 

I consider you one of the true masters and have read your posts from way back when. Your advice is really appreciated-Thanks-Joe

 

 

[qsd-dan]

Bah, don't worry about the motor carriage. The first time I took one apart I was going to mark all 3 pieces with a grease pencil for easy reassembly, then laziness kicked in and decided not to. I ended up taking the whole works apart 2 more times before I got everything oriented like it was from the factory. Everybody starts somewhere

In the near future, I'll dig out one of my spare brake packages and do a pictorial step by step disassembly/reassembly. I'll also explain how to shim the spring to regain tension. I could try to explain it off the top of my head but I can't remember the inner/outer diameter washer sizes and I may forget a step or 2 in the process. The last time I took one apart was about 5 years ago.

The 1/2 HP motor is built a bit more rugged and has a little more power. For a machine that's in proper working order, there's no noticeable difference in the agitation cycle. Where you'll see the difference is during the ramp up of the spin cycle but once up to speed, eh, not so much.

I wouldn't consider myself a master, just someone who is greatly interested in these machines and got my hands dirty as much as possible.....arguably to levels of insanity. The more one fools around with these, the quicker you'll get and find inquisitive ways to repair problems and become more efficient. It's fun coming across different issues, especially the wacky and rare ones, and then figuring them out. Also, when the manual indicates areas that shouldn't be fooled with or "take to the dealer/send to the factory" for repairs.....well, I consider that a challenge

 

[combo52]

Automatic Washer Horse-Power

AWs almost universally had 1/3 HP motors, I was always pleased that Maytag resisted the silly move to 1/2 HP motors that every other American manufacturer jumped to during the 60s. All these higher HP motors ever did is waste untold amounts of power.

 

The only thing putting a 1/2 HP motor on a DC MT will do is use 20% more electricity and may ruin the timer and WL switch contacts, it will not work any better.

 

MT DC machines have often had problems with the motor starting at the start of spin, the best thing you can do to tweak a MTs starting ability is adding a start capacitor to the motors start winding.

 

John L.

 

 

 

 

[Sudster]

UPDATE

Between the rain and waiting on the postal service for the remaining parts, We are right close to re-assembly day. I obtained a NOS brake and got it quick-Go Fedex! The control panel is finished.

 

[this post was last edited: 1/2/2021-21:29]

 

[kenwashesmonday]

Looks very nice.  This machine is going to be a honey!

 

[Sudster]

As stated we are almost ready for assembly but I need your thoughts on a couple things:

 

 

1--- I have a NOS that some say was a somewhat serviceable tub bearing  204013-I also have the new style 204013 which can't be oiled--Which should I use?

2--Since this Brake is also new, Should oil be added?

 

I have more questions as the machine comes together and will lean on you all as we go--thank you--Joe

 

[this post was last edited: 1/2/2021-18:49]

 

[good-shepherd]

serviceable tub bearing 204013 Which should I use?

Use the old style bearing with the oil wick and shoot some extra turbine oil in there in case it dried out a little over the years.

Save the new tub bearing for a lesser re-build.

 

[Sudster]

Thanks--I messed up again --Both the new & old tub bearings have the same number--204013.

 

[lorainfurniture]

The brake should be ready to install, however it may not hurt to squirt a bit of wd-40 just to soften things up. If you apply to much it will just slip for several loads. If not enough it will squeak loudly and there is no way to properly lube with it installed.

I’ve never seen any different sleeve bearings before, they all seem to look the same. A thin coat of oil wouldn’t hurt.

You may be mistaken for the tub seal. The old style 2 piece tub seal required lube. The newer one piece style is installed with no lube on the facing seal.

 

[good-shepherd]

Brand new NOS transmission

I'd love see what oil in a unused NOS long stroke MT trans looks like.

By the time we get around to opening them up it has the consistency of molasses.

 

[combo52]

MT Tub Bearing and New Brake

You can use either top tub bearing the original that had extra oil wick was found to be of no value as these bearings never fail unless water gets past the main seal. I always with either type bearing squirt turban oil on top of the bearing once it is installed with the machine upright before you install the mounting stem.

 

If when you lay the new brake assembly on its side you can't see any thick oil go ahead and add several tablespoons of transmission oil, you can't over oil the brake within reason.

 

It is easy to add oil to the brake once installed, just lay the washer on its side and use a pump bottle and squirt some in through the holes in the main drive pulley.

 

John L.

 

[Sudster]

Thanks Everyone

1--EUGENE -Thank you and may I state that I appreciate your response even though I created some havoc in our early forum relationship, It certainly shows great character on your behalf to step up and offer advice--I salute you and admire your graciousness.

     I need to know what Maytag  suggested concerning brake oil,especially a new one. Some say oil yet you suggest WD40-please explain--I mixed up the bearing and stem numbers but my stem and boot questions will be next up-with pics. Again ,thanks for helping

 

2--Douglas--Thanks for the flowers on progress thus far. Transmission oil is exactly as you described.

    When I removed it from the box I studied how to determine oil capacity/condition etc.--I looked back through the AW threads & posts then turned the trans shaft down in the box. I'd walk past it  every day & spin the bottom shaft with my fingers CCW. After 2 days I could see a faint light brown film emerge from the shaft bushing. I went back to the workshop,removed the trans weight and weighed myself holding the OLD AND new transmissions separately. They were almost identical on a digital scale.

 

3--John--Thanks, I am still foggy on the old vs new drum bearings.  I have read all the way back to 2008 thoroughly and RCD states he could always stop  a squeak by adding oil to the old style. You claim --No leaks-No squeaks, Please elaborate--I appreciate all--Joe