The dampers have gotten pretty bad and I decided to try and tackle this today. So far, the suspension eyebolts are rusted solid.
A806 repairs not going well
- Thread starter mistereric
- Start date
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Don't be afraid to use a torch on 'em, Eric.... I used to hesitate but wound up spending waaaaay too much time trying to find workarounds!
Paul is spot on. Give them hell and if they break let us know. I'm sure I have several spares on hand that I could send a set of three out to you.
Ben
Ben
Thanks gents. If I destroy the bolts, how much of an issue is it to replace them and get the proper tension on the springs?
Maytag's instructions on these bolts is to replace them with the nut "in the original position". Not super helpful if they break off.
What you could try doing is taping the top half of the bolt off at the nut, and start to loosen it. When it breaks (if it does) you'll still have reference to the original spot where the nut was tightened to at the factory that you can reference when installing replacements.
What you could try doing is taping the top half of the bolt off at the nut, and start to loosen it. When it breaks (if it does) you'll still have reference to the original spot where the nut was tightened to at the factory that you can reference when installing replacements.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
If I destroy the bolts
How about using an angled nut splitter from below?
The avoids a lot cursing and you'll still have the top half of the eyebolt/nut intact to use as a reference.
How about using an angled nut splitter from below?
The avoids a lot cursing and you'll still have the top half of the eyebolt/nut intact to use as a reference.
I used metal electrical boxes to keep the springs “expanded” You will have to push/pull the tub the opposite direction of the spring. You are basically getting the spring to stretch as far as possible then slide the electrical box in to keep it expanded. I fine it easier to do the 2 rear springs first then the front spring last.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
You could also measure and record where the nuts are sitting now on the eyebolts then use a bolt cutter or grinder to remove.
That will get you close enough for reassembly then adjust as needed to center the tub once its up and running.
That will get you close enough for reassembly then adjust as needed to center the tub once its up and running.
roberth58
Member
Don't make it harder than it is. Measure height of eyebolts from base and also the diameter. Cutoff rusted eyebolts with angle grinder. Go to ACE or other local hardware store, spend $5-$10 on new stainless eyebolts that are the closest match in size to old ones. Jobs a good'un.
Bob
Bob
I've encountered a few rusted eyebolts and I just cut them in half with bolt cutters. Prepare yourself for flying shrapnel if no tension has been released from the other 2 eyebolts.
If you end up gluing new damper pads down, the location of the lower nut on the eyebolts will be drastically different from the originals. It's virtually impossible to glue down all 3 pads in the exact location as the previous ones. The only time I'd bother with marking the eyebolts is re-lubing pads that are free of any damage.
If you end up gluing new damper pads down, the location of the lower nut on the eyebolts will be drastically different from the originals. It's virtually impossible to glue down all 3 pads in the exact location as the previous ones. The only time I'd bother with marking the eyebolts is re-lubing pads that are free of any damage.
So, I said screw it and lopped off the bolts with my bolt cutters. They cut like butter. Since the damper pads are properly farooked, I took Dan's advice and decided I'd figure out the tension later.
Off to the Depot, new stainless eyebolts, nuts and washers. Sorted.
Propped her up and got access to the pads... well, to two of them. The back lefthand pad is just gone. Not smooshed up inside, not rattling around the cabinet. Just completely missing. Ohhhkay.
Cleaned the pad area as well as I could, glued down the new pads, lubed her up and lowered back onto the lower cabinet, tightened the bolts roughly and left it overnight to set. Man, that orange glue is some icky stuff!
Ran a spin the morning after and it's a little wobbly; will have to adjust a bit, no big deal. Decided to do a wet test and we're peeing all over the floor. Seems I've angered the air gap.
While I was in the neighborhood I unscrewed the tub bulb and eyeballed... seems okay, wonder why it doesn't light. Jammed my multimeter probes in the switch (what a rat's nest!) and no love... looks like I need an injector kit and a new three pole switch. Tempted to jump the air gap with a barbed connector.
So, progress.
Thanks for all the pointers so far everyone!
Off to the Depot, new stainless eyebolts, nuts and washers. Sorted.
Propped her up and got access to the pads... well, to two of them. The back lefthand pad is just gone. Not smooshed up inside, not rattling around the cabinet. Just completely missing. Ohhhkay.
Cleaned the pad area as well as I could, glued down the new pads, lubed her up and lowered back onto the lower cabinet, tightened the bolts roughly and left it overnight to set. Man, that orange glue is some icky stuff!
Ran a spin the morning after and it's a little wobbly; will have to adjust a bit, no big deal. Decided to do a wet test and we're peeing all over the floor. Seems I've angered the air gap.
While I was in the neighborhood I unscrewed the tub bulb and eyeballed... seems okay, wonder why it doesn't light. Jammed my multimeter probes in the switch (what a rat's nest!) and no love... looks like I need an injector kit and a new three pole switch. Tempted to jump the air gap with a barbed connector.
So, progress.
Thanks for all the pointers so far everyone!
If one of the damper pads was gone...
in what condition was the damper? Was it not damaged at all?
in what condition was the damper? Was it not damaged at all?
I felt around in there and it seemed ok.
Testing 1,2,3
Shakedown wash went ok. Let’s try a bobload.
Shakedown wash went ok. Let’s try a bobload.
