Cleaned up
Very nicely
Very nicely
Another 806....Ut oh
- Thread starter gadgetgary
- Start date
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
Beautiful!!!
Congratulations on one snazzy looking machine! How's the damper and motor carrage? On Dan's, we had to lube both. Also, his had the black clamshell timer that quietly advances. Yours is the older style one. I'm not sure why the difference in timer styles other than Maytag may have been shifting timer vendors around at that time and the people who really know the answer are sadly scattered to the winds now that Newton is gone.
Now all you need is the matching 'pepper shaker' to complement that gorgeous washer!
RCD
Congratulations on one snazzy looking machine! How's the damper and motor carrage? On Dan's, we had to lube both. Also, his had the black clamshell timer that quietly advances. Yours is the older style one. I'm not sure why the difference in timer styles other than Maytag may have been shifting timer vendors around at that time and the people who really know the answer are sadly scattered to the winds now that Newton is gone.
Now all you need is the matching 'pepper shaker' to complement that gorgeous washer!
RCD
magic clean
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2004
- Messages
- 511
Timers
& other stuff. Not real sure about Maytag, but it was not uncommon to see 2 different style timers & drive motors used on many makes of appliances.
Timers like the one shown, is a Mallory. The black plastic cased timer mentioned, was a Kingston. This Maytag machine looks like it has a GE drive motor. The other commonly seen motor vendor is Emerson.
Usually, high volume appliance manufacturers prefer to have a couple of sources in the event of availability problems. I.E. work stoppage, material shortages, natural disasters and other unforseen circumstances that can compromise and/or shut down a supplier etc.
L.P.
& other stuff. Not real sure about Maytag, but it was not uncommon to see 2 different style timers & drive motors used on many makes of appliances.
Timers like the one shown, is a Mallory. The black plastic cased timer mentioned, was a Kingston. This Maytag machine looks like it has a GE drive motor. The other commonly seen motor vendor is Emerson.
Usually, high volume appliance manufacturers prefer to have a couple of sources in the event of availability problems. I.E. work stoppage, material shortages, natural disasters and other unforseen circumstances that can compromise and/or shut down a supplier etc.
L.P.
Mallory and Kingston
Yep, Maytag sourced both Mallory and Kingston timers for their washers (not sure about dryers). All 3 of my 806's have Kingston timers that DON'T snap
, so I'm guessing the Mallory timers are the snappers.
Yep, Maytag sourced both Mallory and Kingston timers for their washers (not sure about dryers). All 3 of my 806's have Kingston timers that DON'T snap
, so I'm guessing the Mallory timers are the snappers.
Mallory Timer
Thanks for that information.
Love the sound of the 'CLICK' when the timer advances.
Andrew:
How's the damper and motor carrage?
I know what the motor carriage is, but, what is the damper?
Thanks for that information.
Love the sound of the 'CLICK' when the timer advances.
Andrew:
How's the damper and motor carrage?
I know what the motor carriage is, but, what is the damper?
Andrew:
Series 2....
What was the difference in between Seried 1 and Series 2?
When did they change the bleach dispenser from right to left?
When did the back panel change from blue to gold?
The flexible black piece on the water injector was slit, therefore, a leak.
She was wet and cold and needed to be rescued.
Series 2....
What was the difference in between Seried 1 and Series 2?
When did they change the bleach dispenser from right to left?
When did the back panel change from blue to gold?
The flexible black piece on the water injector was slit, therefore, a leak.
She was wet and cold and needed to be rescued.
Dan
Is that black rubber piece in the middle the part that you lubricate?
If so, do you use the White Lithium grease there too?
Is that black rubber piece in the middle the part that you lubricate?
If so, do you use the White Lithium grease there too?
"What was the difference in between Seried 1 and Series 2?"
The only difference I see between my Series 1 and 2 806's is the tub light. However, RevinKevin has a Series 1 806 without a tub light. Hmmmmmm
"When did they change the bleach dispenser from right to left?"
1973 was the last year of the timed bleach dispenser. Bleach dispenser went to the left in '74.
"When did the back panel change from blue to gold?"
I think somewhere between 1974-1975. Grandma had a HA806/HDE806 with sunglow control panels and aluminum timer dials. I believe 808's came out in '75, so I'm guessing her set was a '74.
"The flexible black piece on the water injector was slit, therefore, a leak."
I bet the machine was tossed for this cheap and easy fix! Idiots!!
"She was wet and cold and needed to be rescued."
Yaaayyyy for a rescue!!
The only difference I see between my Series 1 and 2 806's is the tub light. However, RevinKevin has a Series 1 806 without a tub light. Hmmmmmm
"When did they change the bleach dispenser from right to left?"
1973 was the last year of the timed bleach dispenser. Bleach dispenser went to the left in '74.
"When did the back panel change from blue to gold?"
I think somewhere between 1974-1975. Grandma had a HA806/HDE806 with sunglow control panels and aluminum timer dials. I believe 808's came out in '75, so I'm guessing her set was a '74.
"The flexible black piece on the water injector was slit, therefore, a leak."
I bet the machine was tossed for this cheap and easy fix! Idiots!!
"She was wet and cold and needed to be rescued."
Yaaayyyy for a rescue!!
Black Rubber Air Gap Fill Injector Tube
This was the part that was split, and, water was leaking in the left rear corner during fill.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-A806-==i444984&PartID=444984
This was the part that was split, and, water was leaking in the left rear corner during fill.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-A806-==i444984&PartID=444984
"Is that black rubber piece in the middle the part that you lubricate?"
No, the black rubber piece is simply a shield that prevents water from getting into the brake package in case of a water leak from the tub seal. The damper is the metal piece in the center with the tub braces bolted to it. Pads (3 of them) are located underneath the damper.
"If so, do you use the White Lithium grease there too?"
Polylube only, but something is probably better than nothing at all.
No, the black rubber piece is simply a shield that prevents water from getting into the brake package in case of a water leak from the tub seal. The damper is the metal piece in the center with the tub braces bolted to it. Pads (3 of them) are located underneath the damper.
"If so, do you use the White Lithium grease there too?"
Polylube only, but something is probably better than nothing at all.
Pads (3 of them) are located underneath the damper.
I should clarify that better. All 3 pads are glued to the base, which sit underneath the damper. My series 2 806 needs the pads replaced as they are badly worn and came unglued from the base. I haven't checked my series 1 806 yet.
I should clarify that better. All 3 pads are glued to the base, which sit underneath the damper. My series 2 806 needs the pads replaced as they are badly worn and came unglued from the base. I haven't checked my series 1 806 yet.
So
Lubrication is from under the machine?
Lubrication is from under the machine?
Lubrication is from under the machine?
Lubrication is between the damper and base. Here's the long version:
Mark the placement of all three anchor bolts (or count the remaining threads from the top or bottom of the anchor bolt). Tilt machine back. EQUALLY loosen all 3 anchor bolts (located underneath the base) until they're ALMOST fully unscrewed. Tilt the tub back and fully loosen the anchor bolts from the rear springs. Tilt the tub forward as much as possible and remove the last bolt from the front spring. CAUTION!! The front spring anchor bolt may go airborne as all of the tension is now on that one spring/anchor/anchor bolt.
Remove the 2 screws that bolt the cabinet to the top. This step is necessary to allow room for the whole tub assembly to go upward. Tilt the washer back and place a 4X4 under the transmission pulley. Set washer down and the whole mechanism should move upward. This will reveal the damper pads.
If the damper pads are worn or loose, purchase new damper pads and glue (Maytag refers to the glue as "cement"), and glue new pads to the base. 24 hours are needed for the glue to set before re installation. If the damper pads are fine, liberally apply polylube to the top of all 3 pads and re-assemble in reverse.
Lubrication is between the damper and base. Here's the long version:
Mark the placement of all three anchor bolts (or count the remaining threads from the top or bottom of the anchor bolt). Tilt machine back. EQUALLY loosen all 3 anchor bolts (located underneath the base) until they're ALMOST fully unscrewed. Tilt the tub back and fully loosen the anchor bolts from the rear springs. Tilt the tub forward as much as possible and remove the last bolt from the front spring. CAUTION!! The front spring anchor bolt may go airborne as all of the tension is now on that one spring/anchor/anchor bolt.
Remove the 2 screws that bolt the cabinet to the top. This step is necessary to allow room for the whole tub assembly to go upward. Tilt the washer back and place a 4X4 under the transmission pulley. Set washer down and the whole mechanism should move upward. This will reveal the damper pads.
If the damper pads are worn or loose, purchase new damper pads and glue (Maytag refers to the glue as "cement"), and glue new pads to the base. 24 hours are needed for the glue to set before re installation. If the damper pads are fine, liberally apply polylube to the top of all 3 pads and re-assemble in reverse.
Dan
Thank you so much for your information.
How would I know if the damper pads need that?
Thank you so much for your information.
How would I know if the damper pads need that?
How would I know if the damper pads need that?
RCD will have to chime in here as it takes lots of experience to "feel" when this is needed. However, 99.9% of the time, the damper pads aren't ever thought about until it's too late and the damper is grinding directly into the base. When this occurs, replacement of the damper pads, base (if it the grinding goes on for an extended amount of time) and/or damper is needed. Basically, checking/lubing/replacing the damper pads prevents the above.
RCD will have to chime in here as it takes lots of experience to "feel" when this is needed. However, 99.9% of the time, the damper pads aren't ever thought about until it's too late and the damper is grinding directly into the base. When this occurs, replacement of the damper pads, base (if it the grinding goes on for an extended amount of time) and/or damper is needed. Basically, checking/lubing/replacing the damper pads prevents the above.
The link I've provided below is for a thread that has not been archived (so the link may die) - but I recently posted Maytag doctrine that should answer many of the 'when was this...'.
Thread #22010 "Documented Maytag A806 Series 1 & Series 2 changes"
The two issues I don't feel is completely documented yet are:
1. Exact month the tub light went away (sometime in late '75)
2. Exact month the model tag went from the back of the machine to under the lid (again, sometime in late '75)
I don't have the complete LTS publications from 1975/1976 to verify. Anyone out there?
Ben
http://www.automaticwasher.org/TD/THREADS/VINTAGE/22010x12.htm
Thread #22010 "Documented Maytag A806 Series 1 & Series 2 changes"
The two issues I don't feel is completely documented yet are:
1. Exact month the tub light went away (sometime in late '75)
2. Exact month the model tag went from the back of the machine to under the lid (again, sometime in late '75)
I don't have the complete LTS publications from 1975/1976 to verify. Anyone out there?
Ben
http://www.automaticwasher.org/TD/THREADS/VINTAGE/22010x12.htm
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
Chime!
Gary, the first and best hint your damper will give you is when you grab the agitator and move the tub around. It should move side to side and back and forth pretty easily. If you have to muscle it to move the tub around, your pads are most likely dry and need lubrication. Polylube is the best and will also do a bang up job on the motor carrage slides as well. It's called the damper due to it suppressing vibration transfer from the tub to the base frame. As the pads dry, the mechanism is able to 'grab' the base and thereby shake it. Left too long, the aluminum damper can rip off the pads and then grind itself into oblivion against the Zinc-coat steel baseframe. This is not pleasant to see or hear (metal grinding and/or black dust which is ground aluminum) and is also a mighty pain in the ass to fix. I've seen it left so long that the damper gets ground so thin that the ears that the tub support arms bolt to shear off then the tub drops, etc, etc... No good Maytag deserves such a fate...
Dan did a good job describing the process (He'd better have as I just spent time showing him...) but here's some more tips in longer form:
Use your finger to apply the polylube on the pads. Give a even coating but you don't just slather it on. Over lubing the pads isn't the best especially as Polylube ain't cheap! Just a light but even coating will do.
When re-assembling, tilt the washer bach so the mech settles back onto the pads. Start and finger tight the back spring nuts first but just a few threads, enough to start and hold. Set the washer back down and pull the tub forward. This will allow the front spring eyebolt to get close enough that you can start the nut on that one as well. Tilt the washer back again and use a socket wrench to equally tighten the nuts until about 3/8 - 1/2 inch of threads come out the ent of the nut. Set the washer back down and re-attach the top bolts and spin the washer to check tub alignment with the top opening. Adjust the spring bolts from the inside as needed to center the tub if needed. All Maytag dependable care platform washers will eventually need this at least once in their lives.
Replacing the pads is a bit more involved as you have to disconnect all hoses to the tub, remove the drive pulley and brake assy underneath, undo the springs so the whole 'tree' (the tub and trans assy coplete) tips out. Set that upside down and this will enable you to replace the damper if needed. Once the damper has been ground into, it usually will need to be replaced or it will rip off the new pads. Dan got lucky with his washer. One pad is halfway loose but still on. If he replaces the pads BEFORE it comes all the way off, he'll save a pricy damper. (You hear me, Dan?) Use a drill with a wire brush to grind off any pad/adhesive residue/scrunge on the base frame. Glue on the pads with Maytag yellow adhesive and let set. Lube the pads and re assemble. In other words, guys, LUBE THE PADS BEFORE THIS IS NEEDED!!!
(pant, pant...) Sorry about the soapbox there, but I see too many Maytag owners ignore what their washer is trying to tell them until they hear 'The Grind'...
I'm glad you rescued her, Gary (and Toggles!) Talk about a diamond in the rough! She's a pretty girl and was lucky indeed to find you both! The whole machine simply shines with a healthy glow that says "I'm loved!" The appliance whisperer in me also hears her saying "I'm lonely. Where's my dryer?" Heh,heh,heh...
RCD
Gary, the first and best hint your damper will give you is when you grab the agitator and move the tub around. It should move side to side and back and forth pretty easily. If you have to muscle it to move the tub around, your pads are most likely dry and need lubrication. Polylube is the best and will also do a bang up job on the motor carrage slides as well. It's called the damper due to it suppressing vibration transfer from the tub to the base frame. As the pads dry, the mechanism is able to 'grab' the base and thereby shake it. Left too long, the aluminum damper can rip off the pads and then grind itself into oblivion against the Zinc-coat steel baseframe. This is not pleasant to see or hear (metal grinding and/or black dust which is ground aluminum) and is also a mighty pain in the ass to fix. I've seen it left so long that the damper gets ground so thin that the ears that the tub support arms bolt to shear off then the tub drops, etc, etc... No good Maytag deserves such a fate...
Dan did a good job describing the process (He'd better have as I just spent time showing him...) but here's some more tips in longer form:
Use your finger to apply the polylube on the pads. Give a even coating but you don't just slather it on. Over lubing the pads isn't the best especially as Polylube ain't cheap! Just a light but even coating will do.
When re-assembling, tilt the washer bach so the mech settles back onto the pads. Start and finger tight the back spring nuts first but just a few threads, enough to start and hold. Set the washer back down and pull the tub forward. This will allow the front spring eyebolt to get close enough that you can start the nut on that one as well. Tilt the washer back again and use a socket wrench to equally tighten the nuts until about 3/8 - 1/2 inch of threads come out the ent of the nut. Set the washer back down and re-attach the top bolts and spin the washer to check tub alignment with the top opening. Adjust the spring bolts from the inside as needed to center the tub if needed. All Maytag dependable care platform washers will eventually need this at least once in their lives.
Replacing the pads is a bit more involved as you have to disconnect all hoses to the tub, remove the drive pulley and brake assy underneath, undo the springs so the whole 'tree' (the tub and trans assy coplete) tips out. Set that upside down and this will enable you to replace the damper if needed. Once the damper has been ground into, it usually will need to be replaced or it will rip off the new pads. Dan got lucky with his washer. One pad is halfway loose but still on. If he replaces the pads BEFORE it comes all the way off, he'll save a pricy damper. (You hear me, Dan?) Use a drill with a wire brush to grind off any pad/adhesive residue/scrunge on the base frame. Glue on the pads with Maytag yellow adhesive and let set. Lube the pads and re assemble. In other words, guys, LUBE THE PADS BEFORE THIS IS NEEDED!!!
(pant, pant...) Sorry about the soapbox there, but I see too many Maytag owners ignore what their washer is trying to tell them until they hear 'The Grind'...
I'm glad you rescued her, Gary (and Toggles!) Talk about a diamond in the rough! She's a pretty girl and was lucky indeed to find you both! The whole machine simply shines with a healthy glow that says "I'm loved!" The appliance whisperer in me also hears her saying "I'm lonely. Where's my dryer?" Heh,heh,heh...
RCD
mistereric
Well-known member
Wow... the machine is coming along so nicely! A very pretty addition, Gary. Glad it was only a minor issue!
Glad it was only a minor issue
Thanks Eric!
While doing a load of wash this morning, I could not understand why the motor was shaking. I thought about looking at the belts and lo and behold, the drive belt was worn. Replaced the belt and Blanca purrs like a real Maytag should. Yep, another easy fix.
I just cannot believe that this lovely machine was destined for the dreaded KRUSHER!
Thanks Eric!
While doing a load of wash this morning, I could not understand why the motor was shaking. I thought about looking at the belts and lo and behold, the drive belt was worn. Replaced the belt and Blanca purrs like a real Maytag should. Yep, another easy fix.
I just cannot believe that this lovely machine was destined for the dreaded KRUSHER!
bobbyderegis
Well-known member
Way to go, Gary!
Bobby in Boston
Bobby in Boston
Soon you guys will be the Maytag repairmen. <:
rickr:
I like the sound of that.
I am now the proud owner of 10 Maytag washers/dryers.
Matched Set of Maytag Neptunes
Matched Set A108 and DE309(Goldie)
Matched Set A 712 DE 712(Brownie)
HA 806(Sunshine)
White 806(Blanca)
A 710(The Mutt)
(Pictured Below)
Avocado Green Portable Dryer KDE50
It has been quite a learning experience. Who knew you could turn a Maytag upside down???
They really were workhorses!
rickr:
I like the sound of that.
I am now the proud owner of 10 Maytag washers/dryers.
Matched Set of Maytag Neptunes
Matched Set A108 and DE309(Goldie)
Matched Set A 712 DE 712(Brownie)
HA 806(Sunshine)
White 806(Blanca)
A 710(The Mutt)
(Pictured Below)
Avocado Green Portable Dryer KDE50
It has been quite a learning experience. Who knew you could turn a Maytag upside down???
They really were workhorses!
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