Anyone know anything about Portable AC units?

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volvoguy87

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summer is quickly approaching and I need to do something about it. Wes won't allow window AC units, and we're not in a position to install central AC yet. I need to get a portable AC unit so I can sleep (last summer was a bad experience to say the least).

I'm looking into a few different options right now. A Haier 14,000 unit for $350.00 from Costco, a DeLonghi 11,000 unit for $300.00 from Costco, or something else. I'm very untrusting of anything wearing the Haier name. The price can't be beat though and I read the reviews (a medium rating when all averages were rated) and am not that horrified.

I don't plan on moving the unit anywhere and I intend to cool my bedroom with it. The reason for the 14,000 btu unit is because my room isn't small. It's approximately 220 square feet but with a high ceiling and 3 large single pane windows (storm windows will be a few years in the future at this rate).

Given Costco's easy return policy, am I on the verge of making a poor decision to purchase the 14,000 btu Haier portable AC unit? Would the 11,000 btu DeLonghi be a better buy? Would a third unit I don't know about yet be a better buy?

What do you think?
Dave
 
I have two Delonghi 11000 units for our upstairs bedrooms. With hotwater heating can't have central a/c. We have a Mitsubishi Mr.Slim split that does the living/dining/kitchen area.
First off make sure it is a two hose unit. Single hose units have to draw in air from somewhere for all the heat they expel from the room, two hose units don't. They aren't as efficient

They're UGLY as sin with those big hoses going up to the window.. I had a pic somewhere can't find it now.

The condensation bucket on the back DOES fill up with water from the humidity taken out.. so they need to be emptied every couple or few days depending on how high the humidity has been. When the bucket is full the units stop cooling until you empty them.

With the two of our running, sometimes just one, they can cool the 3 bedrooms and two bathrooms upstairs quite well

Since we're only up there to sleep most often I don't even turn them on till later in the evening, depends on how hot a day it is.
 
 
They're better than nothing, but the one I've seen in operation performs very poorly for the size-capacity, 12K BTU IIRC. Even with a window duct to exhaust the waste heat, it still uses room air for the condensor, which has to be made-up by pulling air through from uncooled areas of the house.
 
Someone wasn't reading

Ummmmm, the single hose units draw air from other areas to cool the condensor. The two hose units do not, that's why they have the second hose, they also use some of the condensate to cool it.
 
Frankly-

They are better than nothing, but just a little. Add a separate fan to get better circulation and the perception of a lower temperature. I had one for a while, and I grew so tired of emptying the condensate bucket, I sold it.

A kind friend later sent a small window unit for my bedroom, a Goldstar. Another kind friend installed it, with me helping.

Good luck.

If push comes to shove, get a night job restocking at a supermarket. Beg for the Frozen Food section.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
Window units are certainly better and quieter that's for sure. Plus a lot cheaper too. We have sliding windows in the bedrooms otherwise I'd have just got a couple of those $99 Haiers and stuck them in.
Our Habitat Restore has quite a few 2nd hand a/c's on hand and cheap too. Last summer was unusually cool so there wasn't the big demand so the ones they had are still there and now there's more. . Even stores like WalMart couldn't get rid of all the ones they had on the shelves when they knocked the prices down to $79 which is pretty cheap considering.
 
Timeliness ...

 
PeteK, your reply was not yet posted when I viewed the thread began composing my reply. Either way, I am well-aware there are two-hose units, I was referring specifically to the single-hose unit with which I have experience.
 
I am deeply indebted to these portable AC units.

With an 1894 brick house - second level built into raised roof attic - of approximately 1220 sq ft on each level, central air is not really an option without spending thousands just to seal up every crack and floorboard. I have caulked and sealed around all windows between the brick mold and have gasket seals on all the outside warped door frames and that made a huge difference for heating bills this past winter - I estimate 25% less.

For aesthetic reasons I didn't want any AC units hanging off the outside streetview walls but used a 7,000 btu unit for 10 years in the east bedroom window that serves as the computer and some vacuums room. This did a nice job of keeping the ground floor cool with the aid of a main room ceiling fan but by the time one got back to the kitchen one was sweating.

Then the free standing room units came to market.

First one I had was a Danby 7.000 btu unit with front firing ascillating vanes that I set up in the livingroom adjacent to a forced air furnace grill. Very nice when lying on the couch. Because this unit required a drain hose (or the empty twice a day bucket) I modified the furnace grill as a changeover seasonal panel, disconnecting and plugging the furnace duct and running the Danby's single exhaust hose and drain hose down to the basement where a dedicated duct pipe directed the exhaust 16 feet over to a basement window screen and the drainhose arranged for gravity feed along the main joist to the floor drain.
For 6 years, and still functioning, this arrangement did a fantastic job of cooling the entire main floor to a dry 71F.

So I got a second one for the upstairs bedroom, this time a similarly styled 9000 btu badged Sunbeam made by Fujitronic/Coldfront. This one sits on a tabletop shelf against an outside window and exhausts the condensate water through the exhaust hose - no drip pail or drain hose needed.

I like both these units because they are tall and slim-ish with flat tops and the styling suggests Dalek-type robots - very decorative amongst the vacuums.

Last summer, fearing a torrid humid heatwave months long and expecting the main attic lounge to be completed, after surveying all the available models out there, I purchased a third one-hose/no drain portable from Sears on sale, a Kenmore 12.000 btu made by Delonghi, for the main attic that would exhaust through an eave vent. I really object to the units that are all rounded and bulky. Bulky because of the two hose setup and designed rounded so the housewife/husband can't put tv lamps on top. :-(
I ended up using downstairs in place of the Danby.

We didn't get that heatwave but the Kenmore did keep my entire ground floor dry and at a steady 68F all summer long; it is capable of cooling down to 65F but then I'd have to put clothes on... Perfect for Pianos and Davys.

The only problem with the Kenmore was that the digital control buttonpad is on the flat top and the cats would press them as they slept and cavorted up there - oth really like to be blasted by the cold air stream. So I tape-hinged a clear cd case lid over the buttons and use the remote - problem solved.

All indications are that the torrid heatwave will come with a holy vengeance this year. I am ready. I run all the machines on the low speed dehumidify setting 24/7, only triggering AC when the temperature soars.

To sum up - I like a one-hose unit that exhausts condensate water along with the hot air through the same hose. They do this by collecting the condensate in a bottom tray and level sensors them pump the water up and over the heat exchange radiator where it evaporates into the exhaust stream.
My units exhaust through gasket-ed styrofoam doublehung window partitions against the outside screen and so do not make themselves obvious and ugly to passersby. Not as hushed as Central Air but much quieter on low fan than a window unit.
At season's end I completely open up & dismantle the 3 units to dry out and remove any trace of water to prevent mold forming in hidden places.

With Friday and today's temperature hitting 76F under somewhat hazy humid skies, I test ran the upstairs unit and the car's AC. I won't set up the Kenmore until the first sticky summer day arrives. A happy summer Dave is a cool dry Dave.

The blue bedroom unit:

aeoliandave++4-3-2010-19-29-34.jpg
 
~ Even with a window duct to exhaust the waste heat, it still uses room air for the condensor, which has to be made-up by pulling air through from uncooled areas of the house.

Better portable coolers have an air INTAKE and an air exhaust so that cooled indoor air is not pushed out the window.

IIRC there is a rule of thumb of about 20 BTU/h per square foot (with a standard 8 foot high ceiling). Single room units tend to be 4,000 to 6,000 BTU/h to compensate for addtional heat-gain due to adjacent uncooled space and air infiltration for the room's door being opened and closed frequently.

Now as far as as the one you want being 11,000 to 14,000 BTU/h--- that size will cool three to four rooms above the Mason-Dixon line. The problem with oversized A/C units is that they dont run long enough to dehumidify. Trust, me a room at 82*F is comfortable with low/no humidity while one at 74*F and humid is uncomforatable.

Hell Phoenix and Tucson Arizona, outdoors, at 100*F and 15% humidity was comfortabe,whereas 85*F at 80* humidity is intoleratble!

~Wes won't allow window AC units.

UHM why? They are cheap and easy and don't destroy the windows or the house. A simple "L" bracket secured with a screw to the upper pane/sash if ordianry North-American up and down double-hung (I LOVE THEY WAY THAT SOUNDS!) windows will provide needed security. HINT: the more of the unit is OUTSIDE the house the less noisy they tend to be. Look also for three-speed models or even two-speed models. One-speed models are noise-makers!

Honestly I hate portable vented A/C's.

Mitsubishi "Mr.Slim" mini-splits may be just a little bit more money but they are nearly silent indoors and up to 4 indoor units may share an outdoor unit.

It MAY pay to get the heat-pump units to be able to heat bedrooms and not the whole house at night. Also there are units that allow one to heat and cool at the same time in different rooms. (Now THAT is a neat use of A/C waste heat).

Sorry but your best bet is to correct the thinking of the man prohibiting window-rattlers. (ducks and runs). I'm not fond of them but they are better than nothing,

 
and as far as window rattlers go.........

I found a Panasonic brand A/C at a tag/garage/yard sale.
my aunt has one on the 1990s. It is VERY quiet!

It is also my observation that those units where the cold air is discharged into the room on the (right) side are MUCH queiter than those with a standard cold-air discharge along the top (of the front facade).

toggleswitch++4-3-2010-20-20-17.jpg
 
Anyone remember the Norge A/C's from the 60's where the unit was divided in half, 50% outside 50% inside. The window came down right into the middle of the unit.

When it's hot outside, I really don't care what's cooling me, as long as it's cooling. When I was growing up, we had window A/C units. They cooled the room they were in pretty well, but little else. The rooms never seemed to get cool enough like central a/c can do.
 
Sizing, etc.

I wanted to get a more powerful unit because my room has high ceilings, large window area, and it is cantilevered out past the 1st floor by a few feet and has significant outside wall exposure. Also, according to my research, I'll need more cooling BTUs to compensate for the heat produced by the motor and compressor that gets into the room through the machine's cabinet and the thin-walled exhaust hose.

I know how important AC sizing is (too small won't cool and too big won't dehumidify). The Haier 14,000 btu unit I am looking at has a dehumidification-only mode. I can also open the door between my bedroom and the guest room next to it and can let any excess cooling work to cool the next room.

Wes won't allow window units because he says they're ugly and he doesn't want any condensation dripping to rot the window sills. Also, he doesn't want any vibration causing increased wear on the original windows. Personally, I would prefer a window unit because of their quieter, more efficient operation and lower purchase price. Furthermore, I would love the noise of a window unit to drown out the constant barking of our neighbor's dog (where is a speeding bus when you need one?).

Keep 'em coming,
Dave
 
window units

I use 3 different window units in my house. I have found that foam insulation tape (weatherstripping) applied strategically can help quiet things down, and also seal up gaps. I use it at the main places of contact.

Of the 3 I have, I least like the 10k BTU Frigidaire bought from Lowe's last year. It's in the living room, and even on the lowest fan setting, it causes such a din. I have a smaller, older Frigidaire ~5k BTU unit in my bedroom, and it's fine. The rarely used manual control Gold Star 5k unit in my guest bedroom is probably the quietest.
 
Brands.

Just for fun (and self torture) I am looking at some 8,000 BTU window units too. There is an energy star Fedders model: az7r08f2a. It looks to be about $209.00. Is Fedders still any good? I've dealt with cheap made in China goods before and would really prefer something more substantial. This Fedders unit looks pretty good in comparison to the Frigidaire and LG models available at local Big Box stores. It would also be a LOT cheaper to run than a portable unit.

Is it Fedders or Friedrich that is still made in the US? Would an 8,000 BTU unit be a US made one at all?

So much research,
Dave
 
~Wes won't allow window units because he says they're ugly

So are gentialia, but they are still sought-after!

~and he doesn't want any condensation dripping to rot the window sills.

uhm and all the rain coming through the window screens?

With a good couple of coats of paint or stain and sealer, they wont rot. My mother had window units for 30+ years in the same window and never a problem.

Ie there is any damage done in 6 short months one has 6 more months to find, it fix it and revise it.

Sounds to me like unfounded fears are crippling RATIONAL behavior (window units).

If window A/C units were THAT bad they would have come out of fashion by now.
 
hmmm.

Then go to Sears or your local reputable A/C dealer and have back-breathers installed through the walls.

The higher up on the wall the better they will perform.

They are called back-breathers because they have no vents on the side as through-the-window units have.

There are two sizes AFAIK the one "everyone" uses

Fedders did it first and Friedrich, Whirpool, Sears Frigidaire, etc use the size.

An then there is GE, a tad bit smaller.

HINT: have standard back-breather sleeves installed and then you can add ANY unit to it even a GE WITHIN ITS OWN SLEEVE which is a bit smaller in height and width and depth.

HINT: Go for 110v units as much as possible. As the BTUs go up (in multi-room units) their efficiency has to go up to be able to run on the limited wattage a 110v 20a circuit has to offer.

 

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