From what I've understood from reading here, the last of the Dependable care (read real old fashioned Maytags with the short-stroke transmission) had tub seal issue because the tub porcelain had gotten applied thinner.
Are these "real" Maytag designed/built machines?
- Thread starter stricklybojack
- Start date
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IIRC the last model was the LAT3600.
stricklybojack
Well-known member
.
So the thin porcelain would fail and rust would develop?
The one I am looking at leaks a little apparently.
I don't want a battle on my hands trying to fix the leak.
So the thin porcelain would fail and rust would develop?
The one I am looking at leaks a little apparently.
I don't want a battle on my hands trying to fix the leak.
potatochips
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2016
- Messages
- 545
I think Bobs right, in conjunction with the change in the seal design when Maytag removed the large rubber seal for the agitator shaft to a thinner one.
Robert, which washer will you be buying? The one in your first post or the one like I have? This is important as the seal replacement on the one like I have, although semi-invasive, is inexpensive and easy.
Robert, which washer will you be buying? The one in your first post or the one like I have? This is important as the seal replacement on the one like I have, although semi-invasive, is inexpensive and easy.
stricklybojack
Well-known member
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Machines just like yours.
I have read up on past threads about this issue and it seems I need this part...emiright?
Machines just like yours.
I have read up on past threads about this issue and it seems I need this part...emiright?
potatochips
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2016
- Messages
- 545
Ahh not so fast, more than likely its the tub seal that needs to be replaced, but getting the machine home and opening it up will tell you exactly whats wrong.
This is more than likey what youll need. But you may as well replace the bearing too while youre down there, especially if it is the agitator seal that leaked, it may have damaged the bearing too.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Seal/62095720/1478842
This is more than likey what youll need. But you may as well replace the bearing too while youre down there, especially if it is the agitator seal that leaked, it may have damaged the bearing too.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Seal/62095720/1478842
good-shepherd
Well-known member
it seems I need this part...emiright?
No, late model DC Maytag washers dropped the agitator seal in favor of a triple lip seal mounting stem.
However, an agitator seal can be used with the new style stem.
No, late model DC Maytag washers dropped the agitator seal in favor of a triple lip seal mounting stem.
However, an agitator seal can be used with the new style stem.
It reminds Darryl's Neptune will probably have serious bearings issues in about 1 year or so.
I can even imagine will will be his next washer and dryer pair.... LG Signature.
I can even imagine will will be his next washer and dryer pair.... LG Signature.
Silly me was wrong, the last model wasn't the LAT but the LAV 3600.
Just remembered these pieces of trivia last Friday. My sister in Dallas got an Atlantis set not too soon after they came out. I didn't realize the "evil" lurking underneath them until after she'd had them a while. She sold them when she moved from Dallas to the Austin area. Have a coworker who bought "Maytags" that turned out to most likely be the Norgetags. She had nothing but problems with them and ended up souring her on the brand Maytag for the rest of her life.
LAT2300
I’ve been curious about my Maytag combo and this thread has shed some light on the matter. The serial number indicates it was made in February 2002 according to this link:
https://www.electrical-forensics.com/MajorAppliances/MaytagDateCodes.html
I found a YouTube video showing someone replacing the tub seal which shows it has a steel outer drum.
I bought this new and it has worked flawlessly for 15 years as well as the matching dryer. I recently cleaned up the unit, replaced the fill hoses and installed a new vent kit. I don’t wish to jinx myself, but should this break, is it worth repairing? I like the short cycle times and the ability to choose the water level. The tag with the model number indicates it was made in Newton, Iowa.
I’ve been curious about my Maytag combo and this thread has shed some light on the matter. The serial number indicates it was made in February 2002 according to this link:
https://www.electrical-forensics.com/MajorAppliances/MaytagDateCodes.html
I found a YouTube video showing someone replacing the tub seal which shows it has a steel outer drum.
I bought this new and it has worked flawlessly for 15 years as well as the matching dryer. I recently cleaned up the unit, replaced the fill hoses and installed a new vent kit. I don’t wish to jinx myself, but should this break, is it worth repairing? I like the short cycle times and the ability to choose the water level. The tag with the model number indicates it was made in Newton, Iowa.
John....you have a true two belt Maytag....
the orbital tranny, the metal outter tub, spins counter-clockwise....porcelain tub...ALL Maytag
Norge design has a bigger agitator, plastic or stainless tub, spins clockwise...it does have a dual drive transmission, no counterweight...there are pros and cons to this design, I have had two of the Atlantis design, liked the stainless better, really nice machine...held up well for me.....will probably add one to the collection...
the orbital tranny, the metal outter tub, spins counter-clockwise....porcelain tub...ALL Maytag
Norge design has a bigger agitator, plastic or stainless tub, spins clockwise...it does have a dual drive transmission, no counterweight...there are pros and cons to this design, I have had two of the Atlantis design, liked the stainless better, really nice machine...held up well for me.....will probably add one to the collection...
Thanks for the info. Is there any preventative maintenance that would make sense to extend the life of either the washer or dryer. I recently ran a load of bleach followed up with a load of white vinegar which helped clean up the interior of the washer and eliminate some odors. I replaced the original fill hoses and put in a new vent kit for the dryer and noticed the flow of water into the washer improved as well as the exhaust out of the dryer vent.
Does replacing the drive belts proactively make sense or should I adopt the attitude that if it’s not broke, don’t fix it?
Does replacing the drive belts proactively make sense or should I adopt the attitude that if it’s not broke, don’t fix it?
Maintenance On A 15 YO Maytag Pair
The washer does not need much, replacing the belts will only help if they look bad [ burned spots severe cracking etc ] Most important thing you can do with ANY washer is to avoid mineral and scum build-ups in the outer tub area. This is best done by always washing in warm or hot water using plenty of GOOD detergent and bleach will also help, A washer should never develop an odor.
On the dryer it would probably pay to disassemble it clean it and add a drop of oil to the bearings on the two rear rollers and idler pulley, also replace the belt and front bearing slides if they slow signs of wear cracks etc.
Other than this keep using them.
John L.
The washer does not need much, replacing the belts will only help if they look bad [ burned spots severe cracking etc ] Most important thing you can do with ANY washer is to avoid mineral and scum build-ups in the outer tub area. This is best done by always washing in warm or hot water using plenty of GOOD detergent and bleach will also help, A washer should never develop an odor.
On the dryer it would probably pay to disassemble it clean it and add a drop of oil to the bearings on the two rear rollers and idler pulley, also replace the belt and front bearing slides if they slow signs of wear cracks etc.
Other than this keep using them.
John L.
Washer--
found it best to inspect the belt, any signs of wear or splitting, then it would be time for a new one....
check and clean all inlet filters....
and most times, best to open the machine up, remove the splash shield, and clean all areas of soap scum build up....sometimes you have to remove the perforated tub, I think there are only 6 bolts on a Norge design....a long brush that you can slide down between the tubs can be very effective also....clean underside of agitator and areas....
check the motor glides for wear, or lubrication.....
Dryer--
the main thing, lint..and cleaning it out from the whole vent system, from the filter on out....and underneath...a vacuum will help, but compressed air is better...
inspect the belt for wear or cracking.......
lubrication for the bearings/rollers
final touches would be a good car wax and buff on both machines....
found it best to inspect the belt, any signs of wear or splitting, then it would be time for a new one....
check and clean all inlet filters....
and most times, best to open the machine up, remove the splash shield, and clean all areas of soap scum build up....sometimes you have to remove the perforated tub, I think there are only 6 bolts on a Norge design....a long brush that you can slide down between the tubs can be very effective also....clean underside of agitator and areas....
check the motor glides for wear, or lubrication.....
Dryer--
the main thing, lint..and cleaning it out from the whole vent system, from the filter on out....and underneath...a vacuum will help, but compressed air is better...
inspect the belt for wear or cracking.......
lubrication for the bearings/rollers
final touches would be a good car wax and buff on both machines....
stricklybojack
Well-known member
.
I am guessing two belt Maytag, emiright?
I am guessing two belt Maytag, emiright?
Nope
Norge, All MT TL Washers with that slanted front cabinet are Norges.
John L.
Norge, All MT TL Washers with that slanted front cabinet are Norges.
John L.
vacerator
Well-known member
"The tangled webs"
some weave, when it is practiced to deceive. Aside from causing confusion.
Some folks yawn and buy them anyway too.
A K A, also as like the Cadillac Cimarron. It was a Chevy Cadaver Cavalier.
Of course the large Caddy's were't much better then, unlike a Maytag Dependable care. The 368 6 litre V8-6-4 didn't work, but was a cast iron engine, and ran fine with a wire unplugged for the rocker arm solenoids. The 4.1 litre V8 was junk, and the Northstar a bit better, but still junk.
some weave, when it is practiced to deceive. Aside from causing confusion.
Some folks yawn and buy them anyway too.
A K A, also as like the Cadillac Cimarron. It was a Chevy Cadaver Cavalier.
Of course the large Caddy's were't much better then, unlike a Maytag Dependable care. The 368 6 litre V8-6-4 didn't work, but was a cast iron engine, and ran fine with a wire unplugged for the rocker arm solenoids. The 4.1 litre V8 was junk, and the Northstar a bit better, but still junk.
wft2800
Well-known member
I get the impression that most complaints about the Northstar are essentially "but why does it need four camshafts? Muh ol' Chevy did just fine with one! Gimme back muh pushrods!".
vacerator
Well-known member
I think a Chevy
cast iron V8 couldn't get 30 miles per gallon? The 4 valves per cylinder help it breathe. It was also lighter. The complaints were purely durability related.
The Northstar had plenty of power and torque.
It isn't the only junk engine around. The small Range Rover had a V6 that would seize up if it ran too low on coolant, and very buisy owners who didn't check it in time were not warned by a light or gauge until too late.
There was also a Shortstar version V6 used in the Oldsmobile Aurora and Intrigue.
While the lighter Chevrolet designed LS1 V8 of the 90's got better fuel economy, and may have been able to be used by Cadillac, their engineers always wanted the highest technology, because they could sell it. Cadillac buyers were well heeled upper middle class to wealthy. They wouldn't buy a car with a Chevy engine if they knew it. Sales proved so with the early 90's Fleetwood and Brougham sedans with the 5.7 cast iron Chevy made corporate mill. Lincoln sales were killing them.
The aluminum block with cast iron head 41. to 4.9 litre high tech Cadillac mill was even worse than the Northstar. Many have been replaced with remanufactured engines because the bodies lasted a long time. There are still many Deville's, Eldorados, and Sevilles on the roads from that era.
If it wasn't broken, GM, and Cadillac broke them. From engines to transmissions. The V8-6-4 of 1981 was a failure because of a slow clock speed processor. It ran fine though for years on all 8 cylinders.
The next modulated displacement GM engine was in the 2007 through 2011 Impala SS. It had a 5.3 litre V8 but was terrible with fluid leaks.
cast iron V8 couldn't get 30 miles per gallon? The 4 valves per cylinder help it breathe. It was also lighter. The complaints were purely durability related.
The Northstar had plenty of power and torque.
It isn't the only junk engine around. The small Range Rover had a V6 that would seize up if it ran too low on coolant, and very buisy owners who didn't check it in time were not warned by a light or gauge until too late.
There was also a Shortstar version V6 used in the Oldsmobile Aurora and Intrigue.
While the lighter Chevrolet designed LS1 V8 of the 90's got better fuel economy, and may have been able to be used by Cadillac, their engineers always wanted the highest technology, because they could sell it. Cadillac buyers were well heeled upper middle class to wealthy. They wouldn't buy a car with a Chevy engine if they knew it. Sales proved so with the early 90's Fleetwood and Brougham sedans with the 5.7 cast iron Chevy made corporate mill. Lincoln sales were killing them.
The aluminum block with cast iron head 41. to 4.9 litre high tech Cadillac mill was even worse than the Northstar. Many have been replaced with remanufactured engines because the bodies lasted a long time. There are still many Deville's, Eldorados, and Sevilles on the roads from that era.
If it wasn't broken, GM, and Cadillac broke them. From engines to transmissions. The V8-6-4 of 1981 was a failure because of a slow clock speed processor. It ran fine though for years on all 8 cylinders.
The next modulated displacement GM engine was in the 2007 through 2011 Impala SS. It had a 5.3 litre V8 but was terrible with fluid leaks.
