"As the Water Heater Burns"

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beekeyknee

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
1,792
Location
Columbia, MO
In the prequel to "As the Water Heater Burns", "Aggravated again", I found myself at odds with the w/h installed in the house on Southwood Dr.

In the sequel, "As the Water Heater Burns", the story resumes on July 16th and continues to present day.

Problem was from a six year old Whirlpool w/h. I was determined to find a better and longer lasting alternative. After house setting for my parents, I returned to Columbia on July 16th and resumed working on the w/h the next day. I saved the old anode rod, removed the old dip tube, put seven gal. of vinegar in the tank, plugged the open holes in the top of the heater, laid the heater on the carpet in the house, rolled it back and forth vigorously and let it lie on its side in varying positions for two or three days.

After that I purchased a new combination nipple/dip tube, cut it to the proper length, wrapped the nipple with teflon tape, screwed the tube into the cold water side, plugged the other open holes on top of the heater, hooked it up to the faucet outdoors with a garden hose, opened the drain valve on the bottom of the heater and flushed the vinegar and loosened sediment out. Then I closed the drain valve, opened the T&P valve and filled the heater up with fresh water until water was released, closed the T&P valve, reopened the drain valve and flushed the heater for several minutes to clear it. As I flushed and drained the heater, I released the water on some thirsty bushes around the house as to not waste.

Lastly I closed the drain valve, opened the T&P valve until water gushed out, closed the T&P valve and pressure tested the tank for 24 hours. After it passed the test I drained it, took a couple of plugs out of the top and shined a LED flashlight inside the tank while looking through one of the other holes to check for sediment. The tank was clean except for some small deposits on the stack and a few small spots on the bottom. The glass even shined. After I had drained all the water from the tank by tilting it on its side toward the drain valve, I moved it into the house to prepare for connection. The narratives in the posts finish the story.

 
The plumber that installed the last heater installed the gas pipe in a stair-step fashion. Coming into view on the right side of the picture you will notice a double female connector which I installed. At this point he had installed an elbow and took the pipe back to approximately where the air duct is. Then he installed another elbow and the short piece of pipe you see in the foreground. After that he installed the elbow you see on the left side of the short piece, put on another elbow approximately were the pipe strap is on the joist in the background, pointed it downward to let it dangle in the room, put on a 'T' fitting for a dryer connection, a shut-off valve for the w/h, and a dirt trap on the end.

beekeyknee++8-19-2012-16-47-43.jpg
 
I didn't approve of this installation, so I changed the piping by adding the double female fitting, removing the stair-step configuration to a single right angle and running it back to drop it down behind the rectangular range hood vent and strapped it to the wall. The photo appears to be focused on the vent, but the point is the pipe being placed behind the vent and fastened to the wall. It is now secure and not dangling in the room to be in the way of the dryer and w/h.

beekeyknee++8-19-2012-16-50-46.jpg
 
The 'T' fitting is slightly angled away from the wall in case a gas dryer needs to be connected at some point in the future. As luck would have it a stud was directly behind the pipe for secure anchoring.

beekeyknee++8-19-2012-16-57-10.jpg
 
Off the topic, but a collection of Ariel detergent and some Faultless starch. The starch is made in Kansas City. I like to support products made in my state when I can. I used to buy dry Faultless starch in the pale aqua colored box, but I haven't seen it for quite awhile. It was the type my Grandmother used to cook on the stove. It had a great smell. A clean understated smell.

beekeyknee++8-19-2012-17-00-22.jpg
 
I removed and rebuilt the water valve in the Maytag. I had a new one, but I wanted to see if I could do it. Water had got under the plastic water valve holder inserts. I removed them and cleaned away the rust with 'The Works' toilet bowl cleaner and a wire brush. Then I filled the cores with silicone glue, pushed the valve holders back in their cores and screwed the valve back together. It's a one way fix, but nothing to lose. Cold, warm and hot all work properly. The machine fills at about 1.8 - 2.0 gpm.

Does anyone know if that is about right?. It seems like it fills about at the same speed as before the w/h clogged it up.[this post was last edited: 8/19/2012-17:48]
 

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