Asks T761 Dryer. Ouch! Painful reviews...

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Small drum? Bad reviews!

And badly written once so.

Let me guess how many of these are overloading related faults?

And how many the customer support blaimed on the customer (rightly so)?

But yeah, that platform went to trash. Rightfully so.
But these reviews... "Something breaks all the time" is as explanitory as "it is broken, yes" to PC tech support.
 
I like mine

I hava a similar Asko dryer-T712c,IIRC,~2010 vintage,round knob that lights red.I think it holds a good load for a small European machine:easily handles the load from a 24"washer or most older American top loads,and decently effective condenser drying :)Two blowers tuning at ~3400 RPM,so air can be heard whooshing about,but I don't mind machines making noise.No problems at all,just clean the condenser core every 7-10 loads:)
 
I could never buy one because I have to buy gas dryers.  I've read about some Asko dryers catching fire.  As my name suggests I am very partial to Asko, but I can only speak about the washer I have that is now 21 years old!
 
Shocking

I have a few Asko products a couple under the Maytag brand here in the UK- Never had any issues with any of my Asko's, i have a Asko dryer (Maytag MDE9601) I bought brand new in box about a year ago i know its a old-ish model, Drys perfectly everytime within the hour!!!

I am hoping Asko release there new machines in the UK too- Otherwise a trip to France in the Renault Kadjar to collect a set :O
 
Which is the start capacitor on this ASKO ?

I have this same T761 dryer and the motor now just makes a humming noise when pushing the start button but will not start without assistance. If I give the drum a spin with my hand and push start the dryer runs normal.

I believe this points to a bad start capacitor. I first thought the little 8uF white capacitor attached to the motor would be it but starting to think that is a run capacitor (thinking that a start capacitor would have a much higher uF rating). Could the start capacitor be incorporated into what they call the RFI "Filter" which is mounted on the upper rear (and more easily accessible).

If anyone has a good guess of which of these two (pictured) would be the start capacitor it would be helpful before I order parts.

I thought you might find of interest my poor attempt to avoid having to have the "factory service tool" that is designed to support the rear of the drum after the back cover comes off. I think one may be better off just taking the belt off and pulling the drum out next time but for now it's working.

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Thanks. In my area I find several reasonable-priced options for 7.5 or 8 uF "run" capacitors that are usually being used on HVAC fan motors. They will not have the screw mount on the end but I think I could use a zip tie or something to secure it in position.

Does anyone have experience or know if these so called "run" capacitors will be alright to use as a "start" capacitor for a dryer motor; or is there some design difference that makes using them not ideal even when the uF and voltage ratings are in spec ?

From my research I've read that the capacitance and voltage ratings would need to match the original start capacitor specification - which they appear to do.

Of course I want to get a good capacitor that will not damage the motor and might last; and I'm not sure of the source of the comments that I read as it may have applied to different applications.
 
Confirm with an 'expert':

 

Run capacitors are sturdier, since they, well, run.  Continuous duty. 

 

Start capacitors, intermittent duty.  A start will die if used in place of a run.

 

If all those bear out, substituting a run where a start was should be OK.

 

Contracept me if I'm full of polychlorinatedbiphenyls.
 
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