"bad"automotive engines 2000 and newer...

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cfz2882

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-Ford 1.0 ecoboost 3 cyl: rubber cog belt,inside engine,running in oil,drives balance shaft and oil pump-belt strips and engine starves for oil and is ruined if driver does not stop engine immediatly...
-certain chysler engines:water pump is internal,driven by timing chain:if seal leaks,oil is contaminated.
-certain Chrysler engines:low tension piston rings stop sealing...
-Chrysler:5.7 hemi eats camshafts
-certain Hyundai/Kia 4 cyl engines "blow up"-mfg says metallic debris left in engine during mfg.is the cause...spotty warranty coverage...
-certain GM "LS"v8s eat camshaft/lifters.. Also piston ring problems
that is just a few i can think of right now :) Anyone know of others ?
 
I remember my buddy working on a fairly new Ford Taurus about 20 years ago that was overheating and the water pump impellers deteriorated from the cooling system having serious electrolysis issues. It was a known problem in those for a while. Their automatic transmissions were usually toast by 120K miles in just about all years produced.

 

Low tension piston rings were a problem across the board in just about all makes. Even Toyota was prone to that on a few models. Also, engines with low tension rings have a tendency to burn oil which is considered "normal" by the manufacture. Give me regular tension rings and keep your damn 1 MPG.

 

Speaking of burning oil, Cadillac NorthStar engines using 1 quart every 500 miles was considered "normal" by GM and that was before low tension rings. Intake gaskets, head gaskets, and head stud problems in those as well.

 

Any timing chain driven waster pump is a stupid design. Starters under the intake manifold in V engines is another stupid design.

 

Had a coworker with a PT Cruiser (I warned him not to buy that POS but....it looks like an old hot rod so lets throw logic out the window) that was loaded with problems. The transmission computer was externally mounted on the firewall right by the exhaust manifold. You can probably see where this is going. He went through 3 of those in like 8 years and had to go through the headache of reprograming it each time. When it acted up/failed, the limp in mode was downshifting and locking itself into 2nd gear. Nothing like being on a major freeway 50 miles from home (had a long commute) and the trans jumping down into 2nd gear and staying there. Those got shitty gas mileage for a 4 cyl engine. Lots of other problems on those that Chrysler never fixed.

 

Any Chrysler automatic transmission with overdrive. It's amazing they could make solid 3 speed automatic transmissions but put an overdrive gear in there and they became complete shit boxes. Even the same exact transmission decades later had the same exact failure points. Really, Chrysler?

 

Most Honda automatic transmissions. If there are driven easily and the fluid is changed every 20K miles, they can last a pretty long time but for the most part, they suck 👎

 

Plastic intake manifolds on the 96+ Ford 4.7 L engine. Very reliable engine but those intakes are guaranteed to fail at some point. Fuck all plastic intake manifolds, what a stupid idea!

 

A lot of driveshafts now don't have serviceable u-joints, gotta buy a whole new driveshaft. Dumb!
 
 

 

My vehicle collection:

 

1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe (manual, 218 six)

1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe (for parts)

1964 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200 (Automatic, 225 cu in Slant Six)

1967 Chevy Van 108 (manual, 283 V8)

1979 Plymouth Arrow P/U (2.6 liter six, 5 speed trans)

1994 Dodge Neon Coupe (2 liter four, automatic)

1999 Chrysler 300M, (3.5 liter V6, 4 speed automatic)

 

 Currently only the 1950 Plymouth, the 1967 Chevy Van, and the 1999 Chrysler 300M are registered and running.

 
 
My father had that specific EcoBoost motor in his C-Max back in 2014-2016.
I heard a lot of these issues - the Turbocharger apparently is another weak point.
He never had issues in his 30k km.
In theory, a belt in oil *should* last longer than running dry - better heat removal and less friction.

My Polo supposedly has a lot of engine issue to.
It's a supercharged 1.2 4 cylinder with 105 horsepower.
Here, the timing chain can supposedly lengthen leading to it skipping eventually - which in worst cases can lead to valve damage which at that point means new engine.
My 7 speed DSG supposedly makes a lot of problems aswell.
So far, neither has been an issue for me. Been driving that car since 2nd of January 2019 and put a good 70k km on it in that time - must be almost 75k by now.
 
Hi Henrik

 

We have that same VW engine in our Skoda Fabia - 1.2 litre, 77TSI engine.

 

What year was your car made? Earlier ones are worse for the timing chain, some modifications were made in production about 2012 to improve the situation. Our car is 2013 build, so the later production, but we still had to get the timing chain replaced at approximately 100 000 km. (car now has over 150 000 km and is still great to drive.)

You should listen carefully each time you start your car, especially first start of the morning. If you hear any metallic rattle / clatter sound then you should have the timing chain, sprockets, guides and tensioner all replaced as a set. We were told by the Skoda dealer that some metallic noise on start up is "normal" but an independent mechanic, a specialist in VW/Audi cars, suggested replacement was a good idea. Since the parts were replaced, the engine starts perfectly with no rattle or clatter noises.

 

The explanation I have read is that VW bought the timing chains in from a contractor, that contractor used old, worn out machinery to manufacture the chains, the clearances are too large and the chains stretch, eventually they are loose enough to skip over the sprocket and this destroys the engine when pistons meet valves. VW's modification included a new chain and a close fitting guard so that even if the chain is loose, it can't ride up off the sprocket. Doesn't stop the noise when chains are loose though, and continued driving with a slack chain causes other issues such as rapid wear of guides, which puts metallic particles in the oil. The opinions I read say that even the new chain isn't great quality, and better quality replacement chains are supplied by independent companies than the genuine VW parts. It is important to replace all the components - chain, tensioner, guides - as a set, the independent suppliers provide them together as a kit.

 

The other issue with these engines is the spark plugs are deeply recessed and the spark plug leads run very close to the exhaust manifold and turbo. The plug leads suffer from heat damage over time, especially that when parked, heat from the exhaust manifold, catalytic converter and turbocharger soaks up to the spark plug leads and cooks them. There was another modification in production, an extra layer of corrugated plastic, intended originally as protection against martens, was found to give a little extra heat shielding. This isn't a long term solution, the marten protection eventually becomes brittle from the heat and flakes off in small pieces. (At least here in Australia it does - and marten protection isn't normal on cars here, because we don't have martens, weasels or any similar animals.) The symptom of this problem is  the engine suddenly falters, runs rough, stumbles, for brief moments, often when accelerating hard or up hill. This only happens for a couple of seconds here or there, other wise it seems fine, until... As the problem gets worse, the engine computer notices the mis-firing and shuts down fuel supply to that cylinder. (to prevent damage of unburnt fuel reaching the catalytic converter.) This leaves your car running roughly on 3 cylinders, engine management light and other warning lights will come on.

 

New spark plugs and leads fixes the problem, for now... but the new set will eventually get cooked too, so plug leads get replaced frequently on these cars. If you keep driving the car and ignore the misfire, the ignition coils module will be damaged and that makes the misfire even worse, and the solution more expensive. We have just had this issue for the third time - plugs and leads only, the ignition coil pack was fine. Fixed now and running like new. Oh, and plug lead 3, for cylinder 3, gets the hardest life and is usually the one that fails first.
 
Common sense seems to be lacking in modern automotive design. Sure, you can still do some basic repairs and maintenance such as brakes, changing the fluids, and other miscellaneous things but when it comes to doing engine repair, forget about it, pulling off the heads can be a royal pain since you will have to remove the timing chain or belt and have to be very careful especially if it’s a interference engine (interference engines are just a foolish idea since if the pistons hit the valves, goodbye engine) and have to do other while the engine is particularly apart just to be sure. Removing the heads on a push rod engine is much easier, no timing chains or belts to deal with since there’s no overhead cam garbage. Hell, flathead engines are even easier since all you do is remove the (rather move the accessories out of the way) head and put it back on.

Give me a Ford 260/289/202 or a Ford 300 inline 6 any day over today’s offerings. Sure, the Ford 260/289/302 along with the 300 inline 6 aren’t the most powerful engines in the world but are good for 300,000+ miles before needing a overhaul.

There’s actually a ‘66 Ford Galaxie 500 4 door hardtop I plan on getting this summer that has a 302 in it (doubt the engine could be original to the car) and a engine that size may be a little undersized for a car of that size but since it says 62,000 miles on the odometer but is probably 162,000 and if that’s the original mileage, wouldn’t surprise me especially if it’s with a Ford small block V8. The 302 was made up until 2000 if I am not mistaken, should be a good amount of parts around since it’s a popular engine that’s used in the Mustang along with the Explorer.
 
I like old cars too, but they just can't compare with new ones. My 2013 Kia Soul, base model, turns 10 years old in a couple of weeks and nothing has gone wrong with it at all. All I've done is oil changes, tire rotations, tires, and brakes. With it's little naturally aspirated 1.6 four cylinder, it's quicker than a '69 Impala with a 350, and gets better fuel mileage than an air-cooled VW Beetle. The car looks like new. When I was a kid, 10 year old cars were rotting out from the winter salt here.

Maytag85 wrote: "There’s actually a ‘66 Ford Galaxie 500 4 door hardtop I plan on getting this summer"

Make sure you get a good look at the frame. Those frames were notorious for rotting out.
 
VW Golf 5 TSI and its timing chain issues. The seller had its own repair shop and said that he had overhauled the engine and all. The car was clean, no visible damage etc.

Well, a few weeks after I bought it, the engine would randomly shut off and wouldn't turn back on unless it had cooled. Oh, the joy of being stranded on an intersection in the middle of a rainstorm, having to push the car. Or by the side of the road in a poorly visible area.

Long story short: bought the car for 6K, eventually sold it for 2K.
 
I heard about that Northstar engine...

If you were driving in the desert (maybe Palm Springs) and it leaked coolant, the engine could still get you home and you would not be stranded. But if you used the car like a sensible person would do and maintained it like you were supposed to and never drove it abusively, it would eventually give trouble and die young. This is one time taking care of your car would not pay off.
 
Bad Engines

The GM EcoTec 2.4. Absolute trash.
The post 2008 GM 5.3 V8s with AFM, and all the post 2014 5.3 and 6.2 V8s. Loads of issues.
The GM High Feature V6 of all years. The newer ones are still yet to be proven.
The GM EcoTec 1.4T.
Honestly, any Hyundai/Kia direct injected 4 cylinder.
Fiat/Chrysler 2.4 TurboAir engines. Unique valvetrain design, horrible reliability.
Ford/Navistar 6.4 Turbo Diesel.
Ford 5.4 3V Tritons
VW/Audi TFSI 2.0T

Can't think of too many others that are as bad post-2000.
 

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