Bauhaus Stereo by Braun

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Beautiful design, not a particularly good stereo though: see the rather wimpy open-frame output trannies, typical cheesy oval frame speakers, (even though they are AlNiCo magnets) no doubt fairly mundane circuit...German audio was typically low-power Mid-fi in this era, people didn't have money for really good stuff and if they did they bought Leak or some such from England or even from USA mfr's. No doubt it has some great Telefunken or Phillips/Amperex el-84 or 6GW8 outputs and other high quality small signal (12ax7 etc.) tubes though! RA former Editor - Vaccum Tube Valley magazine http://www.vacuumtube.com
 
That's what I used to think about Bang & Olufsen stereo equipment, more looks than performance. Until I bought a pair of Band & Olufsen S75 stereo speakers on a whim a few years ago. I was very impressed with them, the sound is very, very clear and accurate with little to no coloration of the music. They come up on Ebay now and then for around $150. per pair or less.
 
Another factor to consider on the quality of the amp stage-how are the output tubes biased?If it is class "A"or AB-the power output will be lower but the quality would be better-no crossover distortion.Crossover distortion is more of a problem in solid state amps than tube ones.Now if the output tubes are biased AB1,AB2 or class B-than the output power is greater-but the sound quality lower.AB2 is commonly used in guitar amps-for that "funky-crunchy" sound.Class B is for most effiecent-PA amps and AM transmitter modulator stages.Yes,German Hi-Fi is rather low power-would be better if different speakers are used rather than the open frame"banana split bowel" speakers.Grundig,and Telefunken use the lo power approach-and think Germans listen to their music at lower levels-rather than rafter shaking levels-so the smaller output stages are fine for them.Greundigs often have a low power 'Bi-amp" stage-PP stage for the main speaker-single end for the electrostatic tweeter-crossover frequency was high-so the tweeter doesn't need a lot of power-one tube was fine for it.Most output transformers in German and other European equipment are small and open-In the US safety codes require transformers to be enclosed if they are on an open chassis.That code wasn't used in Europe.I remember a Scott intergrated amp I used to have-LK-48 or something like that-had PP 7189's(High power version of EL84) and was good for 24W RMS.The output transformers were enclosed and HUGE for their size-the stage had incredible bass response for a low power amp.You can use 7189 tubes in an EL84 stage-but NOT vice versa.The 7189's will last longer in the EL84 stages.EL84's are common in "G fiddle" amps-the Beatles even used them!They are so common today for Guitar amps and Hi Fi amps.-same with 7189.
 
Scott 299/A/B El-84 amps, Scott 299/C/D 7591 integrated amps etc will blow away the amp section of any Tele/Grundig or any other '60s German console...as will the lesser Scott 222 (El-84), and even the 200 (6GW8)...see our articles featuring them in VTV. It's all about the excellent output trannies, wound in house by Scott.

There were some good open frame transfomers from Europe, Partridge being a prime example, but high-end quality transformers were not usually found in German units with the exception of some Klangfilm amps and the like, but were often found in UK made components. The German stuff was not true audiophile grade, as postwar Germany was fairly poor until the mid-late 60s, by which time the tube era was over. German bi-amp stages were very similar to the 3 amp stages (one for bass and 2 for mid-treble) used by Motorola, Magnavox and other consoles here in the 50s/early 60s, however those tended to use 6V6 outputs most often and fairly dinky output trannies, inferior even to those the Germans used. Folks who rhapsodise over the sound of Maggie console amps are pretty amusing.

None of the Euro-made amps ran pure class A afaik, generally class AB1, in fact very few if any 50s/60s PP hi-fi amps anywhere were pure class A, even McIntosh and Marantz were not pure class A, which designation itself has nothing to do with the quality of the sound, as it would seem, just a description of the tube operation in circuit. Like most US consoles (excepting Fisher, Pilot &c) of the time, they were as much about the look as the sound. Most of them even had the shortwave band in the receiver section. Comparing most consoles to most components is apples to oranges, but as noted some of the component makers did also make superb consoles, putting their components into very nice furniture, I've had several excellent Fisher President and various Pilot consoles containing top-quality components.
 
I'm fixing one now

I am in the middle of repairing a Braun Dieter Rams stereo for a friend. I forget the model at this instant but it is the one with the shortwave radio and external stereo speakers. It is white and steel.
It's all about the look, the art of it. The owner is an artist. The unit is gorgeous.
The tone arm is plastic (similar in quality to a child's phono) and the first one did not survive the trip. The seller (in England) sent an exact replacement tone arm (from a scrap unit) which I installed. Not fun - we're talking micro-surgery on the wiring here.
The current problem - which remains unresolved is that the turntable is 50 hz only whereas the radio is 50/60 hz. We've got a speed problem here.
Sure, you need to either change the spindle on the motor or the idler wheel - but where to you get the correct 60hz idler wheel a half-century later? I hope y'all know cuz I don't.. This is considerably trickier to resolve than a VM...
Again, I am only halfway through the unit. The idler is shaped like a top-hat. I couldn't see how flipping it over would resolve the issue although I am going to investigate this next time I address the set.
I really did appreciate the design after being introduced to the website "Das Programme" (I think). Afterward I went to an estate sale and ended up with a Braun desk fan-heater from the 60's which I now use on my desk at work. It has the classic Braun lines which are pretty classy. Works perfectly. I would have just passed it by had Andrew not introduced me to vintage Braun.
 
Atelier 3

The unit I am repairing is an Atelier 3. The website is www.dasprogramm.org.
It's actually possible that the unit I am repairing is the one in the picture. Andrew kept on referencing this website and the unit is absolutely pristine.
He bought it without my knowing but when it arrived with a snapped tone-arm is was HEEEELLLLP... PAUL!!!!!!
Shipping is clearly a problem with these. The tonearms are brittle at this point and are weak at the rear hinge. The turntable platter is very heavy. If I were buying it I'd be tempted to have the tonearm removed and shipped separately. For god's sake do not cut the wires like this guy did!!!! There is a terminal strip below the phono junction to the pop-mute switch that allows the tone-arm to be unwired. Someone will have to do some soldering later.
The tone-arm wiring is so extraordinarily fine that few techs on this planet would probably attempt repair. Lucky for me Andrew knew me, and I kept a bunch of extra tone-arm harnesses over the years knowing the day would come where I'd have to reconstruct one. That's what I did.
 
I can agree on the Scott Amps Vrs most consoles-the quality is better.Magnavox,fisher,scott Consoles had better quality than other hi Fi consoles-the problem is they were crippled by their ceramic cartridge equipped Truntables.Would love to fit a Magnetic cartridge TT to a Magnavox Concert Grand and just see what that can do.the Components in Magnavox sets were better than some think. I have worked with them.My Mom used to have a Concert grand unit.And yes it was two bi-amp.the LF speaker amp had 4 6V6 in parallel push pull.The tweeter used 2 6V6 in Push-pull.The tweeter amp was an open frame transformer.the LF was enclosed.Class of amplification DOES make a diffrence-listen and you will see.I have many times.Class A PP-there is such a beast-Quad,Leak.The power output is low but the defination of sound is very good.You can pick out instruments and "deph" in a good recording.Quad amps were designed to be used with their electrostatic speakers.Currently I do have 3 McIntosh MC60 amps that need filter caps-can't locate any at this time-they still sit in the closet-would love to put them back into service.
 
As I think of this recent discussion of sound quality of both German 60s audio, and console stereos, two thoughts come to mind. They are obvious, but worth reminding myself of, given the tendency of good vs bad, black vs white type thinking.

#1--No matter what you have, chances are there is something out there that would be better.

2--This Braun or a good American tubed console might outperform a lot of the mass market audio systems of today.

Years back, I actually had a chance to hear the difference between a tubed console vs. a (then) modern mass market system. Both systems used the modern system's turntable. The console was noticeably better--even though it was old, unrestored, and only had mono sound. Today, I wonder what it would have done if it had had a better turntable connected than the mass market "plastic deck".
 
Re Mc 60 filter caps - I've had several pairs of these, as well as most Mc's ever made (I live in Binghamton, the home of McIntosh). I sold a pr of Mc60s to Brazil last year. You may still be able to get caps from Audio Classics here, they do all vintage unit repair work for the factory now, or from Antique Electronic Supply in AZ or just replace individually with Illinois polypropylene caps under the chassis.
Viz: operating class, it's not so much the class per se that the tube is run in than the quality of the circuit design, tubes, passive components, transformers etc... class A amps tend to have very high quality transformers and tubes run in triode mode, which characteristically gives them lower power but an extremely defined mid-range well adapted to appropriate, and usually horn loaded, speakers. Actual tube operating conditions are better described in terms of operating voltages, currents and loading values. In class AB1 tubes are biased so that for small signals (approx < 1/2 max power) the operation is class A linear on both tubes, at maximum signal each tube is cut off for part cycle and not driven into the + grid region to get maximum output and 2nd and 3rd order harmonic and IM distorion can be made inaudibly low in either operating class if done properly.
 
Re: the Maggie Concert Grand, it's a very nice console, I had a few of their lesser models, but that was TOL for them... you can use a magnetic cartridge, just find an outboard preamp unit to boost the low cartridge signal, usually not expensive, you can search "cartridge preamp" or some such on eBay, GE UPX-003 was one and others made them, or build one using plans off the net, an easy project.
 
Magnavox Concert Grand-still looking out my way-As I have stated before Higher end components are RARE this way-no Magnavox dealers in the Eastern NC area-closest at the time was Raleigh.And folks here just didn't buy them.Will have to look at Audio Classsics for the caps.Same with Antique electronic supply.would like to use the amps in my home theater system.3 of them perfect for L Front,Center,R Front-and the Mc 225 for the sorrounds.It needs caps as well.Replaced the voltage double supply in that amp with a full wave tubed rectifier-MUCH BETTER!!!Old SS voltage doublers are CRAP as far as quality is concerned-they are fine for TV sets or oscilloscopes-but for an amp they have too poor of voltage regulation for that application.Voltage doublers work OK for loads that draw a constant low current.At one time was able to get magnetic TT preamps from radio stations-my line of work.Commonly used instead of TT amps from the console maker-less expensive.And I could build it if required.Just need to find a Concert Grand for that experiment-have lots of surplus TT's from a radiostation.Techinics SP25.Common TT for radio stations.You won't find a TT's tape machines or cart machines at radio stations anymore.
for the classes of amplification-another consideration is the stages driving the output stage-esp cathodyne phase invertors-they cannot drive a class AB2 or B correctly-puts too much load on them.And deal with audio drivers in AM transmitter mod stages.Too many times run into transmitters they are distorted-the previous engineer didn't set the bias on the mod stage correctly.That will overload the driver-and bad mod stage tubes will do it.run into that problem at the site I work at now.Set the mod bias at the proper idle current-the Tx passes proof with no problem.And of course sounds better on air and can be modulated 100% without distortion.and thanks for the idea of the suppliers for the caps for the MC amps.If I can get them-no problem to install them.and oh yes-some movie theaters DID use MC amps for their speaker systems-BiAmp Altec "Voice of the Theater"Audio heaven!
 
The 225 is a nice amp, some think their best consumer tube stereo unit, I had several, 2 set on strapped mode, one for each channel...got rid of all of them even the MI-200, in favor of the Marantz and Sargent-Rayment stuff, finally dumped the M stuff too, at the crazy prices folks pay I was happy to sell it all off, the collecting days are over for me anyhow, don't need all the stuff, even gave the Altec Valencias to my son.
One common mod is to replace the selenium rectifiers with HEXFREDS, but a nice 5AR4 rectifier stage is far better. Long tailed pair works well as phase inverter. The common movie theater amp was WE, then Altec later, but I did get several Mc 75s out of a drive in once!
 
RCA was another theater-cinema equipment supplier-even down to the Brenkart projectors-they had versions of these for TV broadcast use.I used to have a pair of 250W Altec Lansing amps that came from a DI theater that was demolished in the DC-virgina area.Had two 845's as the output stage,and 866 as rectifiers.
the unit I used with the MC 225 was an external unit that had a 5U4 tube.Worked great!Another person I knew that worked in a large drive in theater-had RCA equipment-he mentioned two amps-one in use-the other as backup.These used a pair of 4-1000 transmittting tubes in the output stage.That could mean up to 2,500W RMS!These tubes are used a lot in older AM broadcast transmitters-RF amps and modulators.Some RCA low band analog TV transmitters used them in low level RF stages.Some of our transmitters use them where I work-PP RF amp stage rated up to 6Kw.Those glass balloons are sure impressive when worked hard! plates glowing-HOT GLASS!Love the "firebottles!"Lots of those at this transmitter site.
 

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