Harmoniously Matched Laundry!
pg 4
pg 4
beginner questions about 1952 hotpoint & does anyone have the matching dryer?
- Thread starter northwesty
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northwesty
Well-known member
Thanks for all the terrific information!
I have read the information above with great interest. I wasn't sure how the water got out of that inner tub and was discharged. Lots of other fascinating facts I will keep.
I have hopefully repaired the hose and am now trying to figure out how this mulitmeter works. Of course there might be something else wrong with the machine but I am optimistic since it did work for a few seconds after I put the second fuse in.
Just thought I would post another pic of the inside. I have dealt with some other 50 year old appliances and I am impressed with the condition of this old Hotpoint.
I have read the information above with great interest. I wasn't sure how the water got out of that inner tub and was discharged. Lots of other fascinating facts I will keep.
I have hopefully repaired the hose and am now trying to figure out how this mulitmeter works. Of course there might be something else wrong with the machine but I am optimistic since it did work for a few seconds after I put the second fuse in.
Just thought I would post another pic of the inside. I have dealt with some other 50 year old appliances and I am impressed with the condition of this old Hotpoint.
If the machine did work for a few seconds before the fuse blew, you might check the start-switch in the motor. It sounds like it might be stuck.
Interesting "Thriftivator"----don't know if I ever remember one of those. Seem to remember only the familiar plain "straight-vane". Shape reminds me of the S.Q., or Thor.
Brian, exactly how many seconds did the machine work until the fuse blew? Greg has a good point, the centrifical start switch inside the motor might be stuck. Are you using slo-blow fuses?
northwesty
Well-known member
Yes, it is a slow blow fuse, I would say about one second is all, with water starting to go in an then a stop.
With the fuse out, and without too much of a plan on my part, the multimeter shows that there is current between most of the terminals I touch together.
How exactly do I test the motor for instance? Do I have to disconnect it first? Do I have to connect the motor to a ground and then test it. Sorry about these beginner questions. I am going to drop by the hardware store where I bought it last night with the schematic and talk to the fellow there today. Thanks for the help
With the fuse out, and without too much of a plan on my part, the multimeter shows that there is current between most of the terminals I touch together.
How exactly do I test the motor for instance? Do I have to disconnect it first? Do I have to connect the motor to a ground and then test it. Sorry about these beginner questions. I am going to drop by the hardware store where I bought it last night with the schematic and talk to the fellow there today. Thanks for the help
Time to experiment.
Brian, If it blows in one second than its probably not the motor start switch.
Brian, if you remove the fuse from the circuit, does your breaker box trip? Take the two wires off of the fuse and tie them together. Then start the washer, don't let it run for more than 10 seconds, does you circuit breaker trip?
When powering up the washer, do not touch the machine in any way when making this test.
Make this test in fill. Then do it in wash. Then do it again in spin. What happens?
Brian, If it blows in one second than its probably not the motor start switch.
Brian, if you remove the fuse from the circuit, does your breaker box trip? Take the two wires off of the fuse and tie them together. Then start the washer, don't let it run for more than 10 seconds, does you circuit breaker trip?
When powering up the washer, do not touch the machine in any way when making this test.
Make this test in fill. Then do it in wash. Then do it again in spin. What happens?
northwesty
Well-known member
did that test
I did the test as described, basically in spin, wash, fill cycles there is a loud buzzing noise that comes from the motor I think, but no movement in the agitator (or motor). I only left it on for a moment as nothing seemed to be happening. It did not throw the breaker in this short period of time, though. I was afraid to let it go any longer than one or two second.
There was a clicking noise as some componets were closed. In spin, for instance. Some gizmo is closing in order for the machine to do another function so I though this was probably what it was supposed to do.
I did the test as described, basically in spin, wash, fill cycles there is a loud buzzing noise that comes from the motor I think, but no movement in the agitator (or motor). I only left it on for a moment as nothing seemed to be happening. It did not throw the breaker in this short period of time, though. I was afraid to let it go any longer than one or two second.
There was a clicking noise as some componets were closed. In spin, for instance. Some gizmo is closing in order for the machine to do another function so I though this was probably what it was supposed to do.
WELCOME Brian
Here are some more tips of the trade:
On the plug to wall socket on these older machines a word of caution:
On some early machines if you reversed the plug into the wall socket then the whole cabinet became alive and you would get a 120v shock off the cabinet. Early Bendix will do this, my 1955 just whalloped me this spring in fact. (How they marketed a machine with a defect like that with UL & CU in force in 1955 I'll never know!) I have never worked on an early Hotpoint so be careful how you wire or plug the machine in, check the cabinet to ground with your Volt meter before touching it with your hands to be sure there is no electrification of the cabinet.
From what Uni has proposed it sounds like to me the motor is trying to turn but something is jamming it. Can you remove the motor from the tranny and test it on a bench somewhere to see if it gets up to speed?
Hopefully it's as simple as a seized bearing, but if you feel playing with the motor is over your head then I would tell you to take it out of the machine(with the machine unplugged ofcourse) and take it to a motor repair shop where they can bench test it for you safely.
First Inspect the motor windings to see if they are charred or burned or smell burned.
MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE MOTOR BEFORE ACTIVATING IT AS IT WILL JUMP AND TWIST WHEN STARTED and you don't want a 25 pound motor being flung up at you do you!
If it does not start then
I would guess
A) its the shaft bearings in the motor end bells running dry OR
B) the motor start switch is stuck on and if so then the motor will run slow, grind and get very hot to the touch
Once you eliminate the motor then you have to start looking at the machine mechanism.
With the motor lead ends taped up with insulation you could test the machine now and see if it still blew a fuse, then you'd know there is something wrong in the electrics and not the physical mechanism.
If the motor does run freely out of the machine then you have some kind of jam in the mechanism:
which could mean
A) major part failure
OR my personal guess
B) the machine sat for a very long time and you just have a seized bearing somewhere in the mechanism that needs some manual turning and then lubrication.
We have seen a few pre war Bendix that will not budge until you loosen up the tub by hand turning, they had sat so long in one position. Once loose again they work fine.
Nice treasure you have there looking forward to seeing that baby wash again.
Jet
Here are some more tips of the trade:
On the plug to wall socket on these older machines a word of caution:
On some early machines if you reversed the plug into the wall socket then the whole cabinet became alive and you would get a 120v shock off the cabinet. Early Bendix will do this, my 1955 just whalloped me this spring in fact. (How they marketed a machine with a defect like that with UL & CU in force in 1955 I'll never know!) I have never worked on an early Hotpoint so be careful how you wire or plug the machine in, check the cabinet to ground with your Volt meter before touching it with your hands to be sure there is no electrification of the cabinet.
From what Uni has proposed it sounds like to me the motor is trying to turn but something is jamming it. Can you remove the motor from the tranny and test it on a bench somewhere to see if it gets up to speed?
Hopefully it's as simple as a seized bearing, but if you feel playing with the motor is over your head then I would tell you to take it out of the machine(with the machine unplugged ofcourse) and take it to a motor repair shop where they can bench test it for you safely.
First Inspect the motor windings to see if they are charred or burned or smell burned.
MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE MOTOR BEFORE ACTIVATING IT AS IT WILL JUMP AND TWIST WHEN STARTED and you don't want a 25 pound motor being flung up at you do you!
If it does not start then
I would guess
A) its the shaft bearings in the motor end bells running dry OR
B) the motor start switch is stuck on and if so then the motor will run slow, grind and get very hot to the touch
Once you eliminate the motor then you have to start looking at the machine mechanism.
With the motor lead ends taped up with insulation you could test the machine now and see if it still blew a fuse, then you'd know there is something wrong in the electrics and not the physical mechanism.
If the motor does run freely out of the machine then you have some kind of jam in the mechanism:
which could mean
A) major part failure
OR my personal guess
B) the machine sat for a very long time and you just have a seized bearing somewhere in the mechanism that needs some manual turning and then lubrication.
We have seen a few pre war Bendix that will not budge until you loosen up the tub by hand turning, they had sat so long in one position. Once loose again they work fine.
Nice treasure you have there looking forward to seeing that baby wash again.
Jet
Hi Brian, that is good. OK here is the next test.
Disconnect the one of the two wires from the motor. Put electrical tape on the wire you removed just for safety.
Do you still hear that buzzing? It could be a stuck agitate or spin solenoid that is buzzing and not the motor.
Disconnect the one of the two wires from the motor. Put electrical tape on the wire you removed just for safety.
Do you still hear that buzzing? It could be a stuck agitate or spin solenoid that is buzzing and not the motor.
northwesty
Well-known member
I did the second test
In Wash temp select, there is a slight buzz coming I think from one of the two solenoids
In washtime there is a big click but no noise
in rinse there is a slight buzzing noise from the solenoid.
in Spin, no buzzing,
and in dry no buzzing.
I can hand-move the fluid drive gizmo on top of the motor and its belt by hand, but I can't move the motor shaft itself, engaged in I think wash or otherwise. I can't move the other two belts.
Thanks again
In Wash temp select, there is a slight buzz coming I think from one of the two solenoids
In washtime there is a big click but no noise
in rinse there is a slight buzzing noise from the solenoid.
in Spin, no buzzing,
and in dry no buzzing.
I can hand-move the fluid drive gizmo on top of the motor and its belt by hand, but I can't move the motor shaft itself, engaged in I think wash or otherwise. I can't move the other two belts.
Thanks again
Yes I agree with Les. Brian, why don't you take the motor out of the machine, take the fluid drive off and photographic it. We can help you dismantle it from there if you can provide pictures.
Also we need to make sure that the motor is not grounded, with the motor out of the machine see if there is continuity between the motor case and either of its two wires. If so its a gonner.
Also we need to make sure that the motor is not grounded, with the motor out of the machine see if there is continuity between the motor case and either of its two wires. If so its a gonner.
Brian, if the motor turns out to be gone you can probably find a good, rebuilt used one from an appliance parts store. Like Robert said, just be careful about touching the machine while plugged in until you can definitely locate the source of the problem. We don't want you to be turned into a hot point yourself. 
Is the pump seized? When you remove the belts, try turning the pump drive pulley by hand. This is a very common problem for these pumps, if locked up, nothing will work and this motor probably doesn't have a built-in overload protector - thus the fuse at the top.
The Pump Could Be the Cluprit
Good point Greg! Brian, if you take the belt off and find the motor turns just fine, then most likely the pump is the issue. Put very hot water in it, let it sit a few minutes and try and turn it by hand.
Good point Greg! Brian, if you take the belt off and find the motor turns just fine, then most likely the pump is the issue. Put very hot water in it, let it sit a few minutes and try and turn it by hand.
northwesty
Well-known member
apparently the hotpoint is working, kinda
Well I took the motor out last night, and in the process it seemed to loosen up a little. I took it in to a motor place close by and they said it worked fine. I put it back in this morning and the washer seems to be working through all the cycles. They don't exactly make these things easy to work on but now I think I can take the motor out in my sleep.
I want to thank all that helped me and gave me advice, I could not have figured this out without all of your help.
There is one problem. There is a little zip noise from the gizmo under the dial at regular intervals, but the dial doesn't seem to be advancing. I took the dial off and the shaft doesn't seem to be turning. I had to manually turn the dial to get it to the different functions. Do I take the gizmo off and take it apart? The case is not on the machine if that makes a difference.
Another questions, if someone knows, there is only one dial on the machine. first, you choose the water temp. But then there is the heavy, medium, or light wash choice. Do you have to manually turn the knob after the water temp. selection anyway?
Thanks again
Well I took the motor out last night, and in the process it seemed to loosen up a little. I took it in to a motor place close by and they said it worked fine. I put it back in this morning and the washer seems to be working through all the cycles. They don't exactly make these things easy to work on but now I think I can take the motor out in my sleep.
I want to thank all that helped me and gave me advice, I could not have figured this out without all of your help.
There is one problem. There is a little zip noise from the gizmo under the dial at regular intervals, but the dial doesn't seem to be advancing. I took the dial off and the shaft doesn't seem to be turning. I had to manually turn the dial to get it to the different functions. Do I take the gizmo off and take it apart? The case is not on the machine if that makes a difference.
Another questions, if someone knows, there is only one dial on the machine. first, you choose the water temp. But then there is the heavy, medium, or light wash choice. Do you have to manually turn the knob after the water temp. selection anyway?
Thanks again
Hi Brian, congratulations on getting the motor up and running.
OK on early Hotpoint washer you had to start the machine in the fill stage and when the proper water level was reached you turned the dial to the proper washing time and then from that point on its all automatic. I suspect that your machine is that way, although if you read the brochure that Greg posted it alludes to a more automatic way, so I'm not sure about your machine. Does the timer make that "ZIP" sound during the first fill cycle?
Speaking of the "ZIP" sound its called an "Increment Click". That little "gizmo" below the timer box where that sound is coming from is called the Escapement. It sounds like the Escapment is bad and its not an easy fix, you will probably need a new one with parts. Your best bet would be to call Midwest Timer Service and see if they have a rebuilt one in stock: 800-254-7260. If not, you can always send them the timer and they can rebuild it for you.
In the owners manual library I've posted the owners manual to the 1949 Hotpoint if you wish to see it, I've linked to it below.
http://www.automaticwasher.org/LIBRARY/OWNERS_MANUALS/Hotpoint-1949.pdf
OK on early Hotpoint washer you had to start the machine in the fill stage and when the proper water level was reached you turned the dial to the proper washing time and then from that point on its all automatic. I suspect that your machine is that way, although if you read the brochure that Greg posted it alludes to a more automatic way, so I'm not sure about your machine. Does the timer make that "ZIP" sound during the first fill cycle?
Speaking of the "ZIP" sound its called an "Increment Click". That little "gizmo" below the timer box where that sound is coming from is called the Escapement. It sounds like the Escapment is bad and its not an easy fix, you will probably need a new one with parts. Your best bet would be to call Midwest Timer Service and see if they have a rebuilt one in stock: 800-254-7260. If not, you can always send them the timer and they can rebuild it for you.
In the owners manual library I've posted the owners manual to the 1949 Hotpoint if you wish to see it, I've linked to it below.
http://www.automaticwasher.org/LIBRARY/OWNERS_MANUALS/Hotpoint-1949.pdf
on early Hotpoint washer you had to start the machine in the
So, how did it know how much water to use for the rinse cycle or did it always fill all the way for the rinse regardless of how much wash water you used?
So, how did it know how much water to use for the rinse cycle or did it always fill all the way for the rinse regardless of how much wash water you used?
Stupid questions #766a & b:
Robert, thanks for posting that manual. I live for that stuff.
I have a bunch of vintage appliance manuals that I want to share with the site. Do you want them in Adobe format and do you want them uploaded to a thread or emailed to you directly?
Robert, thanks for posting that manual. I live for that stuff.
I have a bunch of vintage appliance manuals that I want to share with the site. Do you want them in Adobe format and do you want them uploaded to a thread or emailed to you directly?
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