Best way to paint appliance ? Spray or roller?

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Shirley

Active member
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
29
I was all set to sand etch and spray my hoovermatic de luxe at the weekend, but a friend said a roller with sponge is the answer? And they sent a link showing a woman using a roller to paint her front loader. So I have seen a few refurbed machines on here with lovely finishes but unsure of the technique used. I'm happy enough to use spray but if a roller gives a better finish I will give it ago.
 
I've had very good luck using the sponge roller technique for appliance repainting. I suggest an appliance epoxy (that should be available at most hardware stores) but if not, use a slightly glossy enamel that is meant for metal.

I have tried using spray cans, but my hands are not steady enough to get an even coat.. However, if you have good 'can control', it is certainly a faster method.

Here's a picture of one of my projects, before:

turquoisedude++5-9-2013-11-15-16.jpg
 
Looks lovely I can spray and have pro sprayer but it might look too shiny it's metal etch and car paint and laquer i have i can spray or roll will just need a roller and tray. Will save having compressor and thinners out if roller is selected. Quick wipe down to see how bad the rust is but its just surface rust.

shirley++5-9-2013-11-39-14.jpg
 
I want to paint it pure billiant white and neon pink trim & stencils. not sure how people feel about changing the colours of the machine or should i keep it as original as possible?

shirley++5-9-2013-11-43-45.jpg
 
I must admit that I do try to keep a restoration to the appliance's original colour however, I have done a couple of re-do's where I changed colour...

I say do what suits you best and what you will be happy with!

Oh, and again, just my opinion but I like the roller method for repainting as I cannot always put the appliance to be repainted into a space where I can control for unwanted airborne spray.

Looking forward to seeing the results!
 
It's going to get used every few days so it needs to fit in with my other white goods in my kitchen. They are all white with neon pink trims and stencils. I don't have much storage space to expand as much as I would like. My main problem is getting time to get a good bash at what I am doing. so far its had an hour internal cleaning and strip down,conditioned rubber hoses, half hour wipe down to test the rust, 2 boil ups and then a modern 30 minute washing machine service it kit ran through it, hot l.o.c soak in the spinner with plain hot tap water, Started steam cleaning the spinner and encrusted hinges ect.I have hoses on order along With new jubilee clips, To make hoses water tight I am going to use central heating leak sealant paste then new jubilee clips.
I have used it to wash but used the front loader to rinse and spin. Not sure my cenral heating leak sealer is going to keep it water tight? But I can go back to the drawing board on sealant. Maybe jc-thread sealant paste if it still has a drip. Still waiting on hoses and jubilee clips want to make it water tight before painting and laquering. Would like to test it out fully before it needs placed back over on it's side
I just love the old hands on machines. They just look so much better than modern appliances.
 
I agree with the Turquoise Dude

Paint it they way you want: the neon pink trim sounds great.

Just painted a portable dish washer Sandy Beige Multipurpose Enamel by Rust Kill, using a roller. Came out fine. "You'd never know, etc."

That's a nice Hoovermatic you have there, lots of fans, here, of that machine.

Welcome to Automatic Washer, Shirley. Have often dreamt and hoped to see the stark beauty of Scotland, the coast and the castles. Must be exciting living there.
 
I see a lot of Scotland I have a lab and newfie they like out up the hills or down by one on the local lochs picture of loch leven 15 minutes away via car dogs favorite walk

shirley++5-9-2013-13-09-53.jpg
 
Would it be ultra shiny as it is car paint and lacquer I dont mind spraying the etch so the paint bonds solid to the metal over an even coat of metal etch. And maybe the roller would give a more satin effect even with high sheen gloss lacquer?
 
A Flattening agent can be added to fine tune the paint gloss level. Automotive body shop suppliers will have it. Try some tests to find the gloss you prefer. Don't forget to add a hardener as well.

I would say somewhere between semi-gloss and full glossy would be best.
 
I have access to an oven to bake it in car bodyshop, but I'm all for trying something new. I use costermanns hardener as I find it the easiest to mix through. It would be cured in a couple of hours never mind around a week, the joys of the motor trade.
 
I really want to try roller

I really want to try the roller method, if I don't like it I can always sand it back down and start again. I need to get my little pink trim and butterflies motif on like everything else in my kitchen. Today I started on making the internal hoses water tight. I will wait till sunday before I have time to see if it worked. I've tried out central heating leak sealant so I'll let you know how that works as it's suitable for boiling. If it fails i will try jc 30 sealant.
 
Thanks thats great information. I have automotive paint and lacquer. When I have day I'll get the sanding and etch coat done. The etch I use is spray. But I really want to try the roller method. Tomorrow I'll see if its water tight after sealing the hoses with central heating leak sealant(choosen as it can take boiling water)I cant wait till its finished to be honest. I replaced the exit hose with a modern 1.5 meter automatic washing machine hose used the central heating sealant and jubilee clip and picture bellow

shirley++5-11-2013-13-20-7.jpg
 
Hoovermatic 3301

Hi Shirley, welcome to the club and congratulations on finding such a machine in great condition, I found one a few years ago but had a few cosmetic issues with the spin lid being eaten away with years of caustic soap powder!!

Hears a link to the old thread showing the restore!! I will say if you have access to a car shop then thats the way to go for a hardened finish, the best match on car paint is "Ford Anglia" white, it gives a creamy original finish and not a modern blue white!!

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?24611
chestermikeuk++5-12-2013-02-34-6.jpg
 
Hoovermatic 3301

These are easy machines to work on and with a few workarounds should pose no problem with repairs, I will say one thing try and get hold of a hoover rubber twinny pipe, the grey lightweight flexy hose you fitted are very lite, this twinny has one of the fastest flow rates of water - if that pipe isnt tied to the taps or sink it will act like a whirling dervish and jump off the sink spraying water everywhere!!

Heres a a few pics of the restore and video!!

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/chestermikeuk/sets/72157631465952104/detail/
 
Whirling dervish

Mike, as if the floor won't be wet enough anyway lol, but I've certainly had my share of pipes flying out of the sink, and water spraying up the walls.

So welcome Shirley, great conditon your machine is in, I was thrilled to find one in the back of a repair shop, but my heart sank when I took the lid off, so I will be following your progress with great interest.

I am interested in seeing the results of the sponge roller method, as im well aware of the skill and preparations needed to do a acceptable, let alone factory finish spray finish, also like most of these things, its the preparation that determines 90% of the final result.

Keep us informed on progress and information on what paints and etch/primers you use, and whatever colours you choose, i'm sure it will look great and in keeping with your kitchen designs.

All the best

mathew
 
It seemed okay with the lightweight hose just a slight ajustment with the bend frame and it stayed in the sink. I found another couple of leaks 1 from the spinner and the top of the housing wash spin and empty tub selector on the water pump. the plastic case has seriously perished and fell to bits and all fell off now so thinking what to use to seal it? Because its a moving part I don't want to use the central heating repair sealant just incase it stops the selector moving. Cant seem to find another on line :(
 
No the flooring is actually cushion floor I wish I could have wallnut flooring, I cant have as I have a newfoundland and a labrador that like the water too much. And I'm not a fan of laminate as its too slippy for the dogs. Least the cushion flooring is easy cleaned and non-slip for the dogs. Unless someone actually touches the flooring they cant tell its not wood as it's over wooden floor boards and stuck in place so it looks and sounds like wood. And it was way much cheaper than wallnut flooring.

As for the lid its quite eaten with soap again but going to see a man to see what can be done, after steam cleaning the lid quite a lot of the bubbles came off which has ate into the alloy. I'm just gettig ready to take the base with casters off really need new castors but stugging to fine the J shaped ones so looks like modern ones will have to be used. the tub upsidedown getting ready to take the base off for sanding and etching.

shirley++5-14-2013-04-42-2.jpg
 
Exit pipe

the exit pipe is actually heavy at the end its ment to attach to modern front loader as the waste pipe. The wide rubber end is fairly heavy so it has stay put in the sink. I sealled up the exit hose from the spinner as its the only place That I had water come back onto the base of the spinner when it was up turned. I have now used the cetral heating leak sealer to plug it up after running the hairdrier on cool for half an hour to dry it out. Hopefully thats the leaks sealed up now. I ended up putting the sealer on the top of the wash spin and empty tub select on to pump to see if that will stop the leak there. That the only 2 leaks it seemed to have. The sort of hood that sat on top of the selector rod into motor fell into a million pieces before I could capture a picture( too busy getting spider webs washed away, wiped it and it fell to bits), so can only try the central heating sealant. Only downside of the central heating sealant is the smell. Makes the fishtank and bathroom stuff smell wonderfull. So cup of coffee before dismantelment commences. I cant wait to get it working so I can watch it washing.
 
Boat paints

have excellent self leveling and smooth out to an amazing degree when roller applied, available in many shades of white, and I'd imagine they'd be available there near the water, Azko Nobel, Interlux, Sikkens, Pettit being common brands. A bit spendy , being for marine use, however amazingly durable, much more so than car paint, good especially on the top surfaces. Good luck with your project!
 
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