Beware of "Dishwasher Fungus"!!!!!

[verizonbear]

Seems easy to remedy, use a Clorox wipe on the door gasket once a week. Or be really creative and use Absorbin Jr or Monostat 7 on the infected appliance door !!!

http://www.dishwashersinfo.com/News...r.htm?utm_source=outbrain_paid&utm_medium=cpc

 

[washer111]

Oh well.

Here's what I'd suggest:

If you are a germaphobe, then you would probably want to run some Citric Acid or good Dishwasher Cleaner through the dishwasher every month or so on the longest, hottest possible cycle (surely these creatures can't survive 158F/70ºC + for over 1hr on todays machines!), with the Sanitise option selected if you have one (i.e. Potscrubber cycle with Sani on).
During the Rinsing phase, I would then add a good, strong dose of Vinegar or dishwasher/washer descalers to help get rid of anything left over.

Following the wash cycle, you could also wipe down the seal with a bleach laden cloth - Yes, I know its rubber, but you can add some Vaseline to it later on to keep it greased (and sealed).

That, or if you have a Steam dishwasher (Thermador comes to mind...), run it on the longest steam cycle possible.

Vwalah!

 

[rolls_rapide]

"Yes, I know its rubber, but you can add some Vaseline..

Are you nuts?

You never, ever, put Vaseline anywhere near rubber, 'cos the rubber perishes in double quick time. The same information applies to the likes of condoms.

 

[washer111]

Hmmm....

Well,

I saw a video on YouTube where someone added Vaseline to their refrigerator's rubber door gaskets. I've been using that technique for two years, and the seals have been been softer. They also seal better, due to the layer of vaseline hanging around the door.

Suggest what I should be using then... Cooking Spray, Detergent, Teflon...

 

[rolls_rapide]

Refrigerator door gaskets tend to be a different kettle of fish. They're not rubber on modern machines, they seem to be more of a type of polyurethane pliable plastic.

 

[washer111]

Oh Well.

If you really must clean your door seals, use a rubber restorer or lubricant. Maybe even cooking oil?

We'll never be able to clean our DishDrawers Lid-seal, as its too far inside the machine to reach around in. I trust that the Finish Dishwasher Cleaner's infrequent use, combined with the 1 fortnightly usage of Heavy on the top drawer should combat it.

Note: We use Heavy all the time on the bottom drawer, as we are running without a drain filter, and need to have the yibbles and stuff pulverised by the impeller/eaten by the temperature and detergent. Heavy also has 3 rinses. Whilst you might find a ton of garbage around the corners of the machine, the final rinse with rinse-aid normally takes care of all of it!

 

[petek]

Left untreated it could lead to Restless Leg Syndrome

 

[foraloysius]

IIRC my grandfather used talcum powder to treat the doorseal of the refrigerator.

 

[rolls_rapide]

Running without a drain filter

That is not recommended either.

The "drain" filter is usually part of the main wash pump filter assembly. This would protect the wash impeller against seeds, vegetable matter, fruit stones, pips and any broken glass fragments, as well as protecting the drain pump too.

On modern machines, due to the smaller less powerful wash motor, a stone/pip/seed/glass fragment stuck between impeller vanes might make the world of difference between a decent wash and a poor one. If there is an in-line heater, a blockage in the water circuit might also cause the heater to conk out permanently.

Modern machines are not exactly the easiest to disassemble in order to replace expensive components, either. On that basis, I would not be running the machine without the filters in place.

 

[washer111]

Hmmm....

I've contacted Fisher and Paykel in regards to a new filter (since you can only buy regular dishwasher drain filters from them . But we use it on HEAVY, and heavy throw objects such as chicken bones or seeds into the machine. We scrape that well. IT is only SOFT food matter, like little bits of mince etc that are allowed thru.

By the way, as the water passes normally thru the filter plate, it is heated by the heater, which is incased, and therefore undamageable. The wash-impeller is fairly sturdy too. The drain is not so, but since it should've really pulverised any garbage, I'm not too worried. The drain filter is actually beneath the cutlery basket, very easy to remove, (and break, for that matter). Which is why I no longer clean them (at all). The Heavy cycle can do that!

 

[rolls_rapide]

Oooh

Be cautious, be very very cautious.

Some new machines from other manufacturers, have a spray arm diverter valve/wheel/disk that is actuated be a small motor via toothed cam/rack and pinion. A jam in this can strip the teeth!

It probably doesn't apply to your dishdrawer though.

Another thought: the filters can keep large detritus away from the pressure vessel. A blockage here can cause water level problems and pressure switch errors.

 

[washer111]

I believe the water level on the dishdrawer is sensed by the motors rotation/torque on the motor (computer sensed). Whilst I have found "something" in the spray-arm, that has persisted in there, nothing else has entered! There might be an "overflow" sensor via the fan duct or in the spill fan that would present an F1 Error, and (possibly) use a second water valve to kill supply to the drawers.

The mechanism you speak would be something like GE's Multi-Orbit Wash-Arm, found on models such as the 2800, 1200 and so forth (those used a passive, self-cleaning filter system with a small disposer, I don't know how often those mechanism's would've jammed though).

 

[rolls_rapide]

"The mechanism you speak would be something like..."

I was actually thinking of Bosch Siemens Neff and their diverter valve. This is a disk with strategically placed holes. According to the position of the disk, water is allowed to flow to the bottom spray arm, the top spray arm or both. Apparently this can jam (motor knackers up or teeth get stripped away).