Black & Decker Electric Lawnmower Switch

[danemodsandy]

Weird question here!

I own a Black & Decker MM600 electric mower, and I need to find a source for on/off switches besides Sears. Sears is a little iffy (you find out your part's on backorder about half the time), and their S & H is high.

The switch's part number is 681064-01, and it's made by Indak. I can't find it on eBay, on Grainger.com, or much of anywhere else. I was hoping one of our resident geniuses would know of a source.

This switch is notorious for burning out quickly (I've even had one catch fire on me), and you have to keep spares on hand. If anyone knows of a source, I'd be really grateful; if I order two of these from Sears, it costs me over $32.00 with their S & H, and this is a very small, light part that doesn't have the lifespan of a fruit fly.

P.S.- Indak is no help; they do not sell to the public, only to OEMs.

Thanks!

 

[panthera]

Not a weird question, but

I am curious. Since the part is junk and the manufacturer doesn't care...anyway to replace it with a safer switch made for a competitor's model...or, with one from an earlier era, back when machines were expected to actually work?
I recently replaced the power drive hold down handle on a six month old Sears gas powered lawn mower. Nearly 600$ this machine cost. The innards of this high-usage safety switch were already worn, two of the cheap plastic bearings broken...I said, screw the warranty...this will be broken again in no time. Replaced with with an all steel and nylon unit from a 20 year old machine...still in perfect condition after all these years, still works more smoothly today than the Sears trash did when new. And Sears is supposed to be one of the better brands.

 

[toggleswitch]

~This switch is notorious for burning out quickly

In my case the blade brake was not fully relaeasing at all times. The extra drag/resistance caused the motor to overheat and smoke until IT burned out. Wonder if said resistance could be involved in your situation. Perhaps excess current pull due to same may be killing the switch........

 

[danemodsandy]

Toggles and Panthera:

This switch failure is epidemic on B & D models that use it- it's not related to anything else on the machine. Other B & D owners have the same problem.

Using another switch isn't an option, because this one is part of a safety switch system. To start the mower, you pull up on a little lever on the handlebar, and hold the lever against the handlebar. That operates the switch. To stop the mower, just let go of the lever, and it flips back into the "OFF" position and stops the machine.

The switch is buried in a special housing on the handlebar; it's a proprietary part that is special for Black & Decker. So, I have to use this exact part, I'm afraid.

What I'm hoping is that someone knows of another source for this part besides Sears. The switches are about $12 each, and Sears wants $8.99 S & H, plus they backorder about half the time. I'm looking for someplace cheaper if possible, and even if the switch itself is not cheaper, then a more realistic S & H charge would be nice, plus having it in stock reliably.

Like most B & D owners, I go through about two of these a year. If I ever find a vintage Sunbeam electric mower, I am grabbing it SOOOOOOO fast. I don't like the stink and roar of gas mowers, plus starting a baulky one in hot Georgia sun is a preview of Hell itself.

 

[sudsmaster]

I had the same model B&D electric mower until recently. I sold it for $50 on Craig's list. Never had a switch problem with it, though. My problem with it was that the cord was getting too hard to maneuver around the rose bushes and trees I started planting in the lawn.

I went to an MTD B&S powered gas mower. That was ok, generally started by the second pull. Recently sold that off after I got a Honda-powered MTD with stainless deck. This one is about as easy to start and use as an electric. Simple: turn on the gas spigot, pull back the automatic choke lever, squeeze the safety bar, and give the cord just one good pull. Always starts on the first pull. Wait for the choke level to return to home position (about five seconds) and then mow. You might want to look at a Honda-powered mower - I suspect it won't have much problem starting even in hot Georgia weather (mine started up just fine when the temps were in the 90's here).

 

[tolivac]

I miss my cordless BD electric mower-no problems with the switch-but the plastic deck wore out from the pinecones,pine needles,and sandy soil here.I bet if it had a metal deck might still be working.

 

[reversajet]

Brake problem

I found one of these mowers recently (with the catcher) and find that the motor brake will not release when power is applied. The unit runs when turned upside down but apparently gravity or something is engaging the brake. This seems to be housed inside the motor... can it be removed, bypassed or repaired, or shall I scrap the whole thing. I'd like to go electric but nothing on the market seems worth the money.

 

[maytagmark]

Sandy

I know just what you mean about gas mowers in this hot southern heat,I am just cursed when it comes to starting a gas mower,by the time I get it started in this heat I'm too tired to mow,I hadn't had to to yard work in a long while,so when I bought this house a year ago I was determined to get an electric mower,so I went to estate sale and lucked out got a Sears Craftsman twin blade by Sunbeam for 4.00,It worked fine but the first time I used it I ran over an old fence post that had fallen down,it was the very first pass I made with it and broke one of the belts,I did finish the rest of the yard with one blade but it took awhile,so with a lot of e-bay searching I found the belts,I found nothing for craftsman,but I did for Sumbeam,so I bought spares,now I have three extras,thinking I want to keep this mower forever,but after a while the motor starts to smell and feel hot,so after reading this thread,I'm thinking the blade brake has something to do with it,I always let it rest because at that point I'm tired too,A friend gave me a vintage self propelled Lawnboy,but the last time I used it it was making some strange noises,I love that mower but am just cursed by gas mowers,and that craftman Sunbeam is not quiet at all. They made some wisper quiet electric mowers way back in the day,before the safety blade brake,I've seen a few on e-bay,thats what I would look for,they seen much better made. Mark

 

[danemodsandy]

Maytagmark:

That Craftsman of yours probably has bad blade shaft bushings. There are four of them, two upper and two lower, pressed into the mower deck where the shaft of the blades pass through the deck.

Go to the link and look at the part called "Mower flanged bushing"- this is the kind of thing you probably need. However, I'd be very careful about identifying the mower before ordering anything- some Craftsmans were Sunbeam and some were Black and Decker.

After bearing replacement, your mower should be wayyyyy quieter.

 

[maytagmark]

Hi Sandy, You are exactly right about the bearings,you are a very smart person, The first time I used this mower after finding it an estate sale for 4.00 I broke one belt,it is a twin blade model,it was noisy,but the first pass I made i ran over an old fence post and broke one belt,after that the mower was quiet,so I know that bearing needs replacement,it must be a Sunbeam,because I found nothing for Sears Craftsman,I bought the Sunbeam belts and they are a perfect fit,I just kept searching vintage electric mowers,I bought two sets so know I have three spares,I've been real carefull with the motor,usually when the motor smells hot .its time for me to rest too,I have never seen a motor or bearings for this mower offered,so maybe you know of a website,sears didn't offer anything. Thanks, Mark

 

[danemodsandy]

Maytagmark:

Abctec Parts may be able to help you; I'm including a link below. You may have to email them with your Craftsman model number, and maybe a photo of the old bearing.

Just to try and help, I'm including a sketch of the bearings and how I remember them going in (it has been a long time since I had a mower with this system). It's essential to be careful when you're inserting the new ones- you should use a rubber plumber's hammer to seat them, so you don't deform the new bearings in any way.

http://www.abtecparts.com/lawn_mower_parts.htm

 

[maytagmark]

Sandy, Thanks so much for that link,it looks like they have everything I need,and for the bearing removal instructions,I can put some new blades on while I'm at it, hope you solve your switch problem. Thanks again, Mark

 

[danemodsandy]

Mark:

You're welcome!

Please proceed with caution on the bearing removal- yours may be different, and my sketch is based on my memory of the last time I did one of these, which was almost thirty years ago. So, I might have mis-remembered something. But I think that's right.

Best of luck on this- if I had a vintage electric mower, I'd certainly want to put it back in primo condition.

 

[perc-o-prince]

Using another switch isn't an option, because this one i

I'm surprized someone hasn't found a work-around for this, especially with all the resourceful people on this list, not to mention other folks fed up with proprietary parts!

Chuck

 

[tolivac]

You COULD work around the original switch-use a regular one---but you wouldn't have the electric blade brake when you turn the mower off.If you used a regular switch the blade would spin down after the motor was turned off.On the blade brake feature-the switch has OPPOSITE poles-One set of poles OPENS--disconnects power to the motor-and the other poles SHORT the disconnected motor to give the brake action.Sometimes this is done thru a resistor to limit current into the brake part of the switch.These same switches are often used on power saws to stop the blade quickly when the machine is turned off.Miter saws is a good example.when I fixed tools-these switches failed quite often.You would ahve to sort thru the switch leads to find which are the power disconnect leads and which are for the brake.Just remember if you use a regular switch to turn off the motor the blade may take a minute or more to coast to a stop.The brake feature was required by "New" Federal regulations for lawn mowers.-The blade must come to a stop within 5sec after the motor was turned off.Same with gas motors-these have a mechanical brake.