Both my Speed Queen units stop working I don't know what I'm missing or doing wrong - Please help.

[Speed_Queen_Boricua]

Hi!

I'm glad to have found this message forum. I'm dealing with a frustrating situation where both my Speed Queen washer and dryer have failed on the same day. Both units were working perfectly until 3 days ago, and now I'm left with issues on both machines. I've done basic troubleshooting but need some expert guidance on what might be causing these problems. First off, these are new units that I bought on April 17 so I have been using them for less than 90 days. Here are the details:

Washer description

• Washer Model: Speed Queen LWN432SP115TW01
• Model No. LWN432SP115TW01
• Product Code: TV2000WN
• 120 V, 60 Hz, 9.8 A

Problem Description

1. Problem occurs on any cycle selected
2. Knob is pulled and the washer fills with water
3. Washer does not begin agitation after it gets filled
4. If knob is moved to a different time setting within the same cycle (example: from [9 normal] to [6 Light]), the washer starts taking more water even though it is already filled and will overflow if not stopped
5. Knob is moved to [Rinse]
6. Set in the [rinse] part of the cycle the washer starts to rinse
7. After rinse comes [SPIN] and the washer spins until all water is removed
8. Cycle ends and washer stops

Troubleshooting Already Completed

1. Confirmed lid is closed properly
2. Confirmed timer knob is pulled out to start washer
3. Confirmed power cord is plugged all the way into electrical outlet
4. Checked circuit breaker
5. Waited for motor overload protector to reset (2-3 minutes as specified in manual) but nothing happened

Dryer description

• Dryer Model: Speed Queen LDE30RGS173TW01
• Model No. LDE30RGS173TW01
• Product Code: DV2000WE
• 120/240 V 26 A, 120/208 V 23 A

Problem Description

1. Today when attempting to use (had to remove clothes that did get washed since rinse and spin was working), dryer does absolutely nothing. No response when timer is set and start button is pushed

Troubleshooting Already Completed

1. Checked and confirmed breakers are good
2. Confirmed door is properly closed
3. Disconnected unit from power for one hour and reconnected, made no difference

I want to make sure I've exhausted all possible simple fixes before calling for service. Even though both units are under warranty with free parts and labor, they still charge $65 for the service visit, so I'd like to avoid that cost if there's something simple I'm missing.

Any thoughts on what could cause both machines to fail like this? I'm hoping someone here has seen similar issues before. Thanks for your help and expertise.

 

[gelaundry4ever]

T

Hi!

I'm glad to have found this message forum. I'm dealing with a frustrating situation where both my Speed Queen washer and dryer have failed on the same day. Both units were working perfectly until 3 days ago, and now I'm left with issues on both machines. I've done basic troubleshooting but need some expert guidance on what might be causing these problems. First off, these are new units that I bought on April 17 so I have been using them for less than 90 days. Here are the details:

Washer description

• Washer Model: Speed Queen LWN432SP115TW01
• Model No. LWN432SP115TW01
• Product Code: TV2000WN
• 120 V, 60 Hz, 9.8 A

Problem Description

1. Problem occurs on any cycle selected
2. Knob is pulled and the washer fills with water
3. Washer does not begin agitation after it gets filled
4. If knob is moved to a different time setting within the same cycle (example: from [9 normal] to [6 Light]), the washer starts taking more water even though it is already filled and will overflow if not stopped
5. Knob is moved to [Rinse]
6. Set in the [rinse] part of the cycle the washer starts to rinse
7. After rinse comes [SPIN] and the washer spins until all water is removed
8. Cycle ends and washer stops

Troubleshooting Already Completed

1. Confirmed lid is closed properly
2. Confirmed timer knob is pulled out to start washer
3. Confirmed power cord is plugged all the way into electrical outlet
4. Checked circuit breaker
5. Waited for motor overload protector to reset (2-3 minutes as specified in manual) but nothing happened

Dryer description

• Dryer Model: Speed Queen LDE30RGS173TW01
• Model No. LDE30RGS173TW01
• Product Code: DV2000WE
• 120/240 V 26 A, 120/208 V 23 A

Problem Description

1. Today when attempting to use (had to remove clothes that did get washed since rinse and spin was working), dryer does absolutely nothing. No response when timer is set and start button is pushed

Troubleshooting Already Completed

1. Checked and confirmed breakers are good
2. Confirmed door is properly closed
3. Disconnected unit from power for one hour and reconnected, made no difference

I want to make sure I've exhausted all possible simple fixes before calling for service. Even though both units are under warranty with free parts and labor, they still charge $65 for the service visit, so I'd like to avoid that cost if there's something simple I'm missing.

Any thoughts on what could cause both machines to fail like this? I'm hoping someone here has seen similar issues before. Thanks for your help and expertise.

his is unusual for a Speed Queen Classic.

 

[phillymatt53]

Plug a lamp into the washer's AC outlet and see if it lights up.
Those units should be on seperate breakers, because if both are running, they'll draw an enormous 36+ amps total if on the same breaker.
I'd inspect the breaker panel and recepticals for questionable wiring. (danger)

 

[Chetlaham]

4) This is normal for the normal eco cycle. After the primary pressure switch is satisfied for some time the timer will briefly add hot water to the tub. In a properly functioning machine it will not overflow as a back-up pressure switch will activate and shut off the water.

The rest however is needs some investigation as to what is wrong, obviously. It sounds like you may have a bad timer in the washer, an electrical contact is not making.

 

[Speed_Queen_Boricua]

Plug a lamp into the washer's AC outlet and see if it lights up.
Those units should be on seperate breakers, because if both are running, they'll draw an enormous 36+ amps total if on the same breaker.
I'd inspect the breaker panel and recepticals for questionable wiring. (danger)

But the washer is working it is the dryer that won't turn on. I will have to check with a multimeter or something because it is 240v.

4) This is normal for the normal eco cycle. After the primary pressure switch is satisfied for some time the timer will briefly add hot water to the tub. In a properly functioning machine it will not overflow as a back-up pressure switch will activate and shut off the water.

The rest however is needs some investigation as to what is wrong, obviously. It sounds like you may have a bad timer in the washer, an electrical contact is not making.

Interesting, good to know, but then, does that also apply even if you have the water temperature knob set to cold/cold? Also I imagine that at some point during the cycle between 9 and 6 the unit must empty part of the water, right?

 

[william8]

Plug a lamp into the washer's AC outlet and see if it lights up.
Those units should be on seperate breakers, because if both are running, they'll draw an enormous 36+ amps total if on the same breaker.
I'd inspect the breaker panel and recepticals for questionable wiring. (danger)

I'd expect they are separate circuits, since the washer is 120v and the dryer is 240v.

 

[william8]

This is why my local Speed Queen dealer will not sell or install these in residential settings. There is no labor warranty, just 3 years parts. Maybe that's why they want a service call charge?

Sorry you are having these issues only three months in.

 

[Chetlaham]

Interesting, good to know, but then, does that also apply even if you have the water temperature knob set to cold/cold? Also I imagine that at some point during the cycle between 9 and 6 the unit must empty part of the water, right?

Yes, even on cold/cold. When the timer automatically advances into this period it lets water in for about 30 seconds. When manually advanced into this period, because it is normally a sub-interval function, it may allow water in for up to 3 minutes. Typically the overflow pressure switch activates if the tub gets to full.

The water does not drain out between 9 and 6, not even partially. It retains the extra water until the first spin.


The idea is, because the normal eco cycle is geared toward saving energy, to let in just a little bit of warm or hot water into the tub instead of the 6 or more gallons of hot water that would normally be allowed in on the Heavy and delicate cycles. It is easier to wire the machine to have just one sub-interval contact in the timer and one backup pressure switch activate the valves via the existing temperature selector. So as a result even cold/cold will trigger additional water.

 

[phillymatt53]

I'd expect they are separate circuits, since the washer is 120v and the dryer is 240v.

I've seen those recessed wall outlet boxes with both types of receptacles... with both being fed from one Romex cable, and one dual breaker.
The 120v using the "half side" of the 240v feed and ground.
So nothing is entirely "expected" in my opinion.
Such a wiring job is not to electrical code standards.

 

[DADoES]

The dryer problem could be as simple as a bad door switch.

 

[Speed_Queen_Boricua]

Thanks everyone for the quick responses and suggestions. I have an update on both machines.

Dryer: Following phillymatt53's suggestion about checking power, I went back to the breaker panel. Even though I had already flipped the breaker once before, I tried cycling it multiple times (7-8 times). On about the 8th try, the dryer came back to life and is working normally now.

Washer: I tried another cycle and it exhibited the same no-agitation behavior. I got a phone call and stepped away. When I came back (not sure exactly how long - maybe 10-15 minutes), the washer had started agitating on its own and completed the cycle normally.

I know I mentioned in my original post that I had already waited for the motor overload protector reset, but apparently it needed much longer than the 2-3 minutes specified in the manual, or there was some other timing issue involved.

Both units are running normally now. I'll keep monitoring them, but it seems like the issues were related to electrical protection systems that needed more time/cycles to reset than I initially gave them.

Thanks again for the help, and sorry for the false alarm. Lesson learned about patience and more thorough power cycling.

 

[DADoES]

The dryer's breaker and wall outlet/cord should be checked for problems.

 

[phillymatt53]

The dryer's breaker and wall outlet/cord should be checked for problems.

Ya beat me to it, because I was gonna suggest the same thing.
It's good to go over the breakers in the main box by turning each one off, and while OFF to Carefully tighten/snug up the romex locking screws to make sure there's no chance for a faulty connection.
However, if the breaker has an internal contact issue (pitting), best to just replace it.

 

[tuesdak]

I've seen those recessed wall outlet boxes with both types of receptacles... with both being fed from one Romex cable, and one dual breaker.
The 120v using the "half side" of the 240v feed and ground.
So nothing is entirely "expected" in my opinion.
Such a wiring job is not to electrical code standards.

I suggest this is correct as to the situation for the OP.

I know I mentioned in my original post that I had already waited for the motor overload protector reset, but apparently it needed much longer than the 2-3 minutes specified in the manual, or there was some other timing issue involved.

Your conclusion is incorrect! As suggested but not explained the why above... You lost one leg of the 240V: the same leg the washer is on. Should be easy to find a loose connection at the breaker or replace the breaker. Likely your cycling the breaker restored a loose connection, but it needs repair. Loose connections can melt and/or burn. The service you may need to call is an electrician.

If you unplugged the dryer during the failure condition the washer would have completely stopped working.

Why? The washer lost it's 120V from the panel/breaker. It's operating in a severe brownout because the 240V dryer load with one leg "open" is now supplying 120V to the washer, but through it's resistance. It's enough current to open the fill valve and run the timer, but when the high amp washer motor wants to start the voltage drops because there isn't enough current through the 240V load due to it's resistance.

 

[phillymatt53]

And to add to the previous suggestions above, most homeowners don't know much about how the home's wired concerning the breakers and romex feeds thoughout the house.
That all depends on what electrician (or backyard handyman) did the work.
In fact, my own home's got a few single pole 20A breakers wired with 2 romex feeds.
I've gone over the wiring, and found no real issues because the extra feeds only go to receptacles that supply low-powered and low current devices.
Like the clock radio in the bedroom, a lamp, etc.

 

[pierreandreply4]

@phillymatt53 have you tested your washers on an extension cord because it might be as simple as the power outlet where the washer is plug in the house that might be broken?

 

[phillymatt53]

@phillymatt53 have you tested your washers on an extension cord because it might be as simple as the power outlet where the washer is plug in the house that might be broken?

I don't have any issues with my washer or dryer.
You must have me mixed up with the OP here.

 

[pierreandreply4]

I don't have any issues with my washer or dryer.
You must have me mixed up with the OP here.

no problem my mistake must of misread the post