Buying a new Toilet this weekend - Any advice?

[DiamondTiara]

I plan on buying a new Toilet this weekend. My current Toilet is a Sterling from 2010. I don't know the exact model of it, but it has seen better days and it is just completely wore out. I plan on either buying a Glacier Bay One Piece or the Kohler Highline Arc One Piece.

I am fairly convinced I am going to buy a One Piece Toilet due to how sleek they look and how dust can't build up in hard to reach cracks. I'm not going to break the bank but if someone can help me make a final decision on which one I'll be buying that would be great.

 

[phillymatt53]

I've got an older 1970's Kohler that's still going strong.
Remember those 6-7 gallon Full Flush models made before all that "water conservation" crap?

The thing to consider is, I've heard from neighbors that they had to pay a plumber multiple times to clean out their sewage pipes leading out to the street main - an expensive procedure.
Because the toilet paper and crap gets clogged under the house's pipe because not enough water pushes the crap though, it sticks, builds up, then you've got a problem.

So, I'll stick to the old style flush.
At least I know that the "crap" makes it out to the street in one flush.

 

[me]

My "favourite" toilet was an old Armitage Shanks dual flush Syphonic Toilet, which used syphonic action to suck the crap and paper down, so was nigh on impossible to block. Sadly, although with their dual flush they were originally considered water saving, they've been banned because they used too much water, I think up to about 9 litres if you held the handle down for a full flush on some models.

If/ when I replace one of my toilets, I'll be looking for a concealed tank one, where the pan butts up to the wall, all the way to the bottom, so it is easier to clean round.

 

[mattl]

I have 4 low flow toilets and zero problems, 2 are TOTO and 2 American Std.. Never a clog or backup, don't even have a plunger. Stick with major brands and flush properly - press and release for liquids, press and hold for solids.

 

[d-todd]

I have a Toto elongated high rise toilet with a Toto add-on bidet toilet seat. I think you can get toilets with bidet built in. I have really enjoyed the bidet feature.

 

[phillymatt53]

I have a Toto elongated high rise toilet with a Toto add-on bidet toilet seat. I think you can get toilets with bidet built in. I have really enjoyed the bidet feature.

"Toto!..... I don't think we're in Kansas anymore!"
Wooooshhh!

 

[DiamondTiara]

I've got an older 1970's Kohler that's still going strong.
Remember those 6-7 gallon Full Flush models made before all that "water conservation" crap?

The thing to consider is, I've heard from neighbors that they had to pay a plumber multiple times to clean out their sewage pipes leading out to the street main - an expensive procedure.
Because the toilet paper and crap gets clogged under the house's pipe because not enough water pushes the crap though, it sticks, builds up, then you've got a problem.

So, I'll stick to the old style flush.
At least I know that the "crap" makes it out to the street in one flush.

At least the models I am looking at here would be the same gallon flush as my current one which is 1.6 Gallon flush, and I have septic so I don't have to worry about a street main or anything like that. If I have issues with the septic, that would definitely be due to the septic itself and not the toilet I am using.

From what I can see the Toto Toilets are of the better quality, but out of my price range at the moment.

 

[rp2813]

I've noticed newer toilets that use a different flush method which seems more reliable for hard water conditions. Instead of the many holes under the rim, there is one large square outlet at the back of the bowl that shoots a strong jet of water all the way around the bowl rim and the flushing action is equal to or better than that from the old style series of holes. Weak flushing action on older toilets is often due to mineral deposits that prevent full flow of water through those small holes. The descaling process for each individual hole would be cumbersome, time-consuming and tedious, require fashioning your own implement to insert into the holes, and the use of a mirror at the same time. If I have to replace either of my two American Standard smooth-sided toilets (working fine for 7+ years), I will choose one with the newer type of flushing action.

 

[phillymatt53]

I've noticed newer toilets that use a different flush method which seems more reliable for hard water conditions. Instead of the many holes under the rim, there is one large square outlet at the back of the bowl that shoots a strong jet of water all the way around the bowl rim and the flushing action is equal to or better than that from the old style series of holes. Weak flushing action on older toilets is often due to mineral deposits that prevent full flow of water through those small holes. The descaling process for each individual hole would be cumbersome, time-consuming and tedious, require fashioning your own implement to insert into the holes, and the use of a mirror at the same time. If I have to replace either of my two American Standard smooth-sided toilets (working fine for 7+ years), I will choose one with the newer type of flushing action.

CLR is a decent way to clear those rim jet holes of scale.
So is Muriatic acid, but used carefully, follow instructions.

I've used the CLR on occasion, pour a 1/2 cup down the overflow tube in the tank, let it sit for a while 10-20 mins, then flush it down.

 

[circlew]

I have a Kohler toilet that is wall mounted and no tank, as it uses a Sloan flush valve. I've had it about 7 years, and it works very well. Never had it clog.

One of my friends had his bathroom done over last summer. The toilet, vanity cabinet, and medicine cabinet are all Glacier Bay from HD. He's had the installer out 3 times to adjust the door on the med cabinet, and told me the other day it isn't closing right again. He doesn't like the commode very well, as he doesn't think the water area of the bowl is big enough. Said it has to be cleaned after nearly every use. I think the company pulled a bait and switch on him, as the original order specified a Kohler toilet, and they put in a cheap one from Home Depot. I would have asked for an adjustment, but he doesn't want to deal with it.

 

[me]

I've noticed newer toilets that use a different flush method which seems more reliable for hard water conditions. Instead of the many holes under the rim, there is one large square outlet at the back of the bowl that shoots a strong jet of water all the way around the bowl rim and the flushing action is equal to or better than that from the old style series of holes. Weak flushing action on older toilets is often due to mineral deposits that prevent full flow of water through those small holes. The descaling process for each individual hole would be cumbersome, time-consuming and tedious, require fashioning your own implement to insert into the holes, and the use of a mirror at the same time. If I have to replace either of my two American Standard smooth-sided toilets (working fine for 7+ years), I will choose one with the newer type of flushing action.

Ah, yes Rimless Toilet pans, they're supposed to be easier to clean some have a slight lip at the top, which perhaps might allow for a stronger flush, some completely rimless. Wall hung so you can mop the floor easily is nice too, but its a good idea to make the wall panel removable to allow easy access to the pipe and pan seal and cistern, eg have a joint in line with the grout lines if you use tiles.

 

[joeekaitis]

One vote for the tried-n-true American Standard Cadet. Not a one-piece but I have yet to grab the plunger.

 

[vacerator]

Most every residential toilet today is lower water use. So I don't care if I flush twice. 1.5 gallons X 2 is 3 gal. Older toilet is at least 3 gallons per flush.

 

[kenmore_elite]

Toto's have a good reputation. But some years back I bought a vintage, Kilgore, baby blue 3.5 gallon per flush toilet AND I LOVE IT!

The main thing when looking for a toilet that will flush well is the angle of the trapway. This photo shows what you don't want--a right angle at the bottom of the trapway. That 90 degree turn will trap big ones every time.

 

[phillymatt53]

Most every residential toilet today is lower water use. So I don't care if I flush twice. 1.5 gallons X 2 is 3 gal. Older toilet is at least 3 gallons per flush.

Yes, but you're having to wait for the tank refill in my opinion is a bit annoying.

 

[vacerator]

Matt, it fills up quicker. I wash hands as it fills.

 

[DiamondTiara]

I have a Kohler toilet that is wall mounted and no tank, as it uses a Sloan flush valve. I've had it about 7 years, and it works very well. Never had it clog.

One of my friends had his bathroom done over last summer. The toilet, vanity cabinet, and medicine cabinet are all Glacier Bay from HD. He's had the installer out 3 times to adjust the door on the med cabinet, and told me the other day it isn't closing right again. He doesn't like the commode very well, as he doesn't think the water area of the bowl is big enough. Said it has to be cleaned after nearly every use. I think the company pulled a bait and switch on him, as the original order specified a Kohler toilet, and they put in a cheap one from Home Depot. I would have asked for an adjustment, but he doesn't want to deal with it.

A wall mounted toilet would be awesome but mine's gonna have to be a floor mount. Its interesting because I know for a fact that my toilet was made in 2010, and it has been since 2015 since I last remember it coming off the floor. Over 10 years now, so I'd say it is well over due to be changed out.

 

[circlew]

A wall mounted toilet requires a part called a "carrier", that bolts to the floor at the bottom of the inside of the wall, and the wall framing. This item was actually more expensive than the toilet itself. It also requires a thicker wall assembly to accommodate the plumbing. I was doing a major renovation, so it wasn't an issue.

Why do you think your 15 year old fixture needs to be changed out? One of good quality should last many decades. My dad's uncle and aunt built a house in 1936, and the toilets installed were Standard Sanitary "Master" one piece models. They were still in fine condition when we sold the house in 1991 after his death, 55 years later. They had been properly maintained, of course, as was everything.

 

[DiamondTiara]

A wall mounted toilet requires a part called a "carrier", that bolts to the floor at the bottom of the inside of the wall, and the wall framing. This item was actually more expensive than the toilet itself. It also requires a thicker wall assembly to accommodate the plumbing. I was doing a major renovation, so it wasn't an issue.

Why do you think your 15 year old fixture needs to be changed out? One of good quality should last many decades. My dad's uncle and aunt built a house in 1936, and the toilets installed were Standard Sanitary "Master" one piece models. They were still in fine condition when we sold the house in 1991 after his death, 55 years later. They had been properly maintained, of course, as was everything.

Its really just because I want to, really. It still works but one can notice that the wax wing is likely starting to fail, and the toilet itself occasionally has the small leak here and there. It's also really starting to show its age in some areas, like under the tank there is this black stuff I can't get off no matter how hard I scrub. It's a bit of an eyesore.

 

[phillymatt53]

Matt, it fills up quicker. I wash hands as it fills.

Well, all I can say about that is........ "I don't give a shit!"
LOL LOL LOL!

 

[kenmore_elite]

No shit!!!

 

[rp2813]

When we reconfigured a bathroom at our previous house, I opted for a wall mounted toilet. If I could afford to do it, I'd switch to wall mounted in both bathrooms of my current home. Not only does it make mopping a breeze, but the open space below makes the room feel larger. I went with the only model I could find that had an exposed tank. I didn't want to have to rip out a section of wall when it came time to replace the flapper.

Re: the square bowl rimless toilet pictured above, that's not the style I was referring to. The type I mentioned looks the same as a regular toilet. The only difference is that it shoots a jet of water all the way around the rim rather than downward from a series of small holes, and that seems to provide a more quiet flushing action along with equal or better flushing action.

I don't know if this is an American Standard exclusive, but here's a link to what I've tried to describe:
https://www.americanstandard-us.com...x-g-80A18PpqWHtWcLdn4V5CFpD3A9ILYM_o501sarL_z

 

[jrap330]

Its really just because I want to, really. It still works but one can notice that the wax wing is likely starting to fail, and the toilet itself occasionally has the small leak here and there. It's also really starting to show its age in some areas, like under the tank there is this black stuff I can't get off no matter how hard I scrub. It's a bit of an eyesore.

If you can ahold of Consumers Reports they review toilets and some Glacier bays are recommended. Toilets last years as in 30 or 40 plus, so I don't understand your issue .
My new toilet is 1.3 gal vs 1.6 gal installed 20 years ago. I can say that 0.3 gal difference means more water in bowel so less chance you need to help out a flush.

 

[phillymatt53]

If you can ahold of Consumers Reports they review toilets and some Glacier bays are recommended. Toilets last years as in 30 or 40 plus, so I don't understand your issue .
My new toilet is 1.3 gal vs 1.6 gal installed 20 years ago. I can say that 0.3 gal difference means more water in bowel so less chance you need to help out a flush.

Well, 1.3 or 1.6 gallons of water is not enough to effectivly flush down the crap a distance of 50 to 75 feet to the main sewer line that's under the street in front of our row homes.
As I mentioned before, several of my neighbors have those low-flo toilets, and the two neighbors that I spoke with down the street have had to pay multiple times for an expensive clog removal procedure from a plumber.
They told me that the plumber ran a camera down and saw the buildup prior to removing the clog under their home's pipeline only half the way to the main line.
And that the plumber said it was caused by the incomplete flush of a lousy amount of water causing the crap to settle and adhere to the pipe, along with the paper.

So.... the mandatory and forced compliance of having to invest in a low-flush toilet isn't a one-time expense to those neighbors who have to keep paying for that toilet.
So when I see a plumber's truck on my street, I now assume it has happened to them again.

 

[qsd-dan]

I chatted with a guy that started out pumping septic tanks for his dads septic company then switched to working in the city sanitary department for a government retirement with benefits. He stated that low flow toilets are one of the main reasons for plugged septic fields and plugged sewer lines in the city. The change from traditional water hogging top loaders to front loaders and HE top loaders was a another big culprit since the top loaders used copious amounts of water that helped keep the lines clear. He said that regular flushing of the sewer lines almost quadrupled with the implementation of low flow toilets, front load washers, low flow shower heads, and water sipping dishwashers. He was also not a fan of garbage disposers.

 

[tomturbomatic]

I remember reading about a section of SF where the terrible smell of the clogged sewers comes up through the street. All of the toilets on the line were low flow and the main sewer lines were half full of "sludge." I would bet that my sewer line is clear because of the amount of laundry I wash with STPP. I also use my A806 about once a week which pours 18 gallons at a time down the sewer. It does not back up so it must be blasting the crap out of the pipes. I have a hair filter in my bath tub drain and clean that regularly.

 

[DiamondTiara]

I remember reading about a section of SF where the terrible smell of the clogged sewers comes up through the street. All of the toilets on the line were low flow and the main sewer lines were half full of "sludge." I would bet that my sewer line is clear because of the amount of laundry I wash with STPP. I also use my A806 about once a week which pours 18 gallons at a time down the sewer. It does not back up so it must be blasting the crap out of the pipes. I have a hair filter in my bath tub drain and clean that regularly.

The way that my septic works is that only the toilets, and the sinks in the bathrooms feed the septic, everything else is gray water and doesn't go into the septic tank.

 

[qsd-dan]

I remember reading about a section of SF where the terrible smell of the clogged sewers comes up through the street. All of the toilets on the line were low flow and the main sewer lines were half full of "sludge."

Yep
https://www.wmbriggs.com/post/3544/

I also use my A806 about once a week which pours 18 gallons at a time down the sewer.

19 gallons if it's adjusted to factory settings. About 43 gallons total for a complete cycle (wash, spray rinse, deep rinse.)

 

[jrap330]

Well, 1.3 or 1.6 gallons of water is not enough to effectivly flush down the crap a distance of 50 to 75 feet to the main sewer line that's under the street in front of our row homes.
As I mentioned before, several of my neighbors have those low-flo toilets, and the two neighbors that I spoke with down the street have had to pay multiple times for an expensive clog removal procedure from a plumber.
They told me that the plumber ran a camera down and saw the buildup prior to removing the clog under their home's pipeline only half the way to the main line.
And that the plumber said it was caused by the incomplete flush of a lousy amount of water causing the crap to settle and adhere to the pipe, along with the paper.

So.... the mandatory and forced compliance of having to invest in a low-flush toilet isn't a one-time expense to those neighbors who have to keep paying for that toilet.
So when I see a plumber's truck on my street, I now assume it has happened to them again.

Matt you stated this previously due to your Philly home. My point is something I wish I considered more seriously when I brought my new one three years ago.

 

[william8]

I chatted with a guy that started out pumping septic tanks for his dads septic company then switched to working in the city sanitary department for a government retirement with benefits. He stated that low flow toilets are one of the main reasons for plugged septic fields and plugged sewer lines in the city. The change from traditional water hogging top loaders to front loaders and HE top loaders was a another big culprit since the top loaders used copious amounts of water that helped keep the lines clear. He said that regular flushing of the sewer lines almost quadrupled with the implementation of low flow toilets, front load washers, low flow shower heads, and water sipping dishwashers. He was also not a fan of garbage disposers.

I could understand low flow plugging a 50' or longer line to the street. But how would it plug a septic field? There is a holding tank before the field. Water only has to get to the tank. My tank is 6' from the house. Most I have seen are under 12' long. And if that line clogged, it would not clog the drain field, just that short drain line. Field will be fine.

And the toilet isn't the only water leaving your home, you have showers, dishwashers, washers, sinks, etc. That should easily keep the line clear on any septic system.

Another tip, you can make your low flow toilet to use more water, just by adjusting the fill valve. You can go as high as the overflow tube. Easy to get an extra gallon or so.