Calypso, Repair in Progress
- Thread starter jaxsunst
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Mallet. Hammer. Whichever. Not rubber. Perhaps partial-deafness helps deal with the noise ... although I really didn't notice much and only a few whacks were needed to get the nut off.
I think I know what is Jackson's problem. His basket/hub is defective. The basket has slipped off-kilter on the hub, which is why it wobbles so badly during spin, and also why the entire u-joint is slipping when he tries to get the spanner nut loose.
I'm having the same problem now on Calypso #2 after getting it reassembled with the new u-joint. It was OK ... until I ran a test spin. The tub suddenly started wobbling/oscillating wildly at max spin speed, and now the basket is lopped off-center in the tub when stopped. Notice the balance ring is exposed on the left side of this pic and not on the right, and there's a gap on the right at the wash plate gasket.
I'm having the same problem now on Calypso #2 after getting it reassembled with the new u-joint. It was OK ... until I ran a test spin. The tub suddenly started wobbling/oscillating wildly at max spin speed, and now the basket is lopped off-center in the tub when stopped. Notice the balance ring is exposed on the left side of this pic and not on the right, and there's a gap on the right at the wash plate gasket.
andrewinorlando
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- Oct 18, 2004
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Sounds kosher to me! What do you do to fix it? Is that a basket replacement or u-joint replacement? Or something else.
Basket replacement. The hub is not separately replaceable AFAIK and U-joint has nothing directly to do with the problem. I disassembled my machine again yesterday evening. The basket is definitely loose from the hub, not exactly free-spinning but enough so that I can wriggle/turn it separately from the hub/U-joint fairly easily. Can't get the spanner nut loose as the entire hub turns (the brake isn't strong enough to hold it), so I'll have to cut the spanner nut off.
andrewinorlando
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Glenn - any idea how something like that happens? When you first got the machine, it was fine, wasn't it? I'm just curious, and like learning more about this machine, just in case!!
Andrew, I can't say about the machine initially being "fine" as I didn't run it prior to disassembly for clean-up. I didn't expect to find the u-joint bad, and it was ... the basket hub had surface corrosion but otherwise looked to be intact. If I had done only superficial clean-up without disassembly, who knows how long it would have run until the u-joint froze completely ... or if the basket would have eventually separated from the hub or not. It *had* to been on the verge of failure, as I couldn't have whacked the spanner nut *that* hard when reassembling to cause the trouble. I'm a weakling, LOL, I've been sitting at a desk job for 8 years and I don't do gyms!
The u-joint kit instructions say there are two kinds of basket hubs used, and each takes a specific spanner nut. The hub and spanner number have embossed part numbers. There's a chart in the instructions for matching them. One new spanner nut is included with the u-joint kit, and it was the right one to match my basket hub. Further, there are different tightening instructions for the two hub/nut combos. Mine instructed to tighten the nut finger-tight, then another 1 to 1-1/4 turns with the wrench -- 135 ft/lb torque. Interestingly, it says if replacing the basket at the same time, tighten it ANOTHER 1 to 1-1/4 (or 1-1/2?) turns!
This 2nd machine that looks cosmetically nearly pristine has turned into a serious headache. I suppose if one decides to break into a Calypso mechanism, one must be prepared to go the distance. Since the flange of the spanner nut protrudes below the hub threads into the u-joint, I may end up damaging the new u-joint when cutting the nut off and have to get another one.
A loose hub must be what is Jackson's trouble. Maybe not loose to the same degree, but with the same symptoms -- excessive oscillation during spin and the u-joint/hub turning when attempting to remove the spanner nut.
The u-joint kit instructions say there are two kinds of basket hubs used, and each takes a specific spanner nut. The hub and spanner number have embossed part numbers. There's a chart in the instructions for matching them. One new spanner nut is included with the u-joint kit, and it was the right one to match my basket hub. Further, there are different tightening instructions for the two hub/nut combos. Mine instructed to tighten the nut finger-tight, then another 1 to 1-1/4 turns with the wrench -- 135 ft/lb torque. Interestingly, it says if replacing the basket at the same time, tighten it ANOTHER 1 to 1-1/4 (or 1-1/2?) turns!
This 2nd machine that looks cosmetically nearly pristine has turned into a serious headache. I suppose if one decides to break into a Calypso mechanism, one must be prepared to go the distance. Since the flange of the spanner nut protrudes below the hub threads into the u-joint, I may end up damaging the new u-joint when cutting the nut off and have to get another one.
A loose hub must be what is Jackson's trouble. Maybe not loose to the same degree, but with the same symptoms -- excessive oscillation during spin and the u-joint/hub turning when attempting to remove the spanner nut.
Loosen and remove the outer wash dome by using two flat-blade screwdrivers 90° apart in two of the four slots provided.
The inner wash plate is the brown cone. Sort of a misnomer, but that's what it's called. On the original design it's white translucent plastic instead of brown. Remove the six 3/8" hex bolts that are exposed. When replacing the six bolts, they must be tightened in a specific pattern which is noted by numbers 1 thru 6 embossed on the inner wash plate dome.
Lift off the outer wash plate.
Lift off the inner wash plate. The leveler probably will "stick" to the bearing inside and come off with it. This will expose the nutate shaft protruding out of the spin drive tube and basket hub (not shown here). The nutate shaft fits into the splined opening on the leveler.
Remove the spanner nut, which holds the u-joint to the hub inside the basket. The u-joint then lifts off the hub, and the basket lifts off the spin drive shaft.
The inner wash plate is the brown cone. Sort of a misnomer, but that's what it's called. On the original design it's white translucent plastic instead of brown. Remove the six 3/8" hex bolts that are exposed. When replacing the six bolts, they must be tightened in a specific pattern which is noted by numbers 1 thru 6 embossed on the inner wash plate dome.
Lift off the outer wash plate.
Lift off the inner wash plate. The leveler probably will "stick" to the bearing inside and come off with it. This will expose the nutate shaft protruding out of the spin drive tube and basket hub (not shown here). The nutate shaft fits into the splined opening on the leveler.
Remove the spanner nut, which holds the u-joint to the hub inside the basket. The u-joint then lifts off the hub, and the basket lifts off the spin drive shaft.
Excellent answer. Thank you much. I ordered my u-joint kit and currently soaking the nut and threads with penetrating oil. The kit with spanner nut should be here mid week. My U-joint is brown with rust and covered with white fuzy soapy deposits. The leveler is brown with rust also. The shaft spline is in bad shape so I cleaned it and scraped the rust out of each groove. The main problem I had was that I didn't understand how to remove the inner dome. I finally figured it out by looking at this and one other thread. The dome was stuck to the u-joint and when I pulled on the dome edge it came loose. The leveler was stuck to the shaft. Thanks guys.
