Can vintage freezers rival new ones? ( energy efficiency )

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Isn't, in the end, the problem

One of priorities?

I don't drink, I don't smoke, I stopped eating meat about 30 years ago....so when people lecture me on my 'unhealthy' lifestyle of being gay and liking chocolate, butter and coffee - I just look at them and say, yeah, whatever.

As I said - we've got modern freezers but anyone who thinks those inverters LG uses are built to last 20 years, much less 50 is seriously more trusting than I could ever dream of being.
 
My understanding that newer fridges and freezers post- about 2000, use a more efficient style of insulation (some sort of foam) that allows them to have thinner walls than older units with spun fiberglass insulation, for about the same R-value. Seems to me that the appliance stylists around 1970 started designing refrigeration units with thin walls but less efficient fiberglass insulation, resulting in higher energy use than an older thick wall design would require. The newer insulation materials may have compensated for the form over function issue.

Newer units also use lower power compressors that use less amps but run more often. Apparently this works out to lower overall energy consumption.

Other energy efficient tweaks may include, for automatic self-defrosting units, going from timed defrost cycles (like every 24 hours whether it needs it or not) to sensor driven defrost units that can detect ice build-up (on the coils, I guess) and only run a defrost cycle when it's needed.
 
you forgot a couple of things panthera

1. Invest in "dishwasher Cleaner" to "clean" the machine that is designed to "clean" your dishes.
2. Cleaner to "clean" the eco-sanctioned washing machine that is supposed to "clean" your laundry.

Not to mention the resources needed to make, market, and distribute the "chemicals" we're all supposed to use to compensate for the fact these so called green machines are basically five star pieces of donkey dung.

If that is going green and making Mother Earth (and algore) happy, then I am more than content to be the curmudgeon that seriously has questioned (and will continue to do so) this eco-nonsense.
 
Refrigerator and Freezer Insulation

Refs and Freezers started using more efficient foam insulation in the early 60s, this allowed thinner walls that insulated as well as older fiberglass insulated models. GE was big on foam insulation from 1961 on on their better models, Kelvinator followed suit in the mid 60s and FD went entirely foam in 1971.

In the past couple decades manufactures have gone back to much thicker walls filled with foam.

Compressors still have about the same cooling power or BTUs on similar size FF refs as they ever did, and modern FF refs actually run much less than older less efficient models from the 60s and 70s, the big difference is more efficient motors and less friction designed into the compressors. These newer compressors are far outlasting compressors in 60s and 70s refs as they run so much cooler and run less time as well.
 
I have a 49 GE freezer...

And it works beautifully. Comparing it, a 9 cubic foot chest style with an early 70s coldspot upright manual defrost 15 cubic foot...there is no comparison. I ditched the coldspot, sold it off for what I had in it once I re wired my GE. The verdict on energy usage? A whopping $15 a month for the coldspot and $6 a month for the GE. Of course you have to take the size differences and configuration into account. I have no idea what a modern one uses. I do know that for my chest freezer it is possible to upgrade the insulation. That would make a tremendous difference. It's quiet and rock solid. It will more than likely outlive me. Those connecting rod compressors that GE used at that time were built like tanks. As a bonus it has a little C7 light that comes on only when the temperature is correct. Too hot or too cold and it will go off. That came in handy once when I forgot to turn the thermostat back on! The thermostat got replaced by me when I did the wiring but the relay is still original.
Oh, and the Ben Hur badge is one of the best badges ever.
 
John,

Thanks for the info on freezer/fridge insulation. I has assumed from material I read around 2000 that there had been some sort of change in the type of foam used, but from what you say the improvement in energy efficiency was gained simply by making the walls of the Energy Star appliances thicker.

Still, it seems that energy efficiency suffered in 60's-80's consumer refrigeration units due to insufficient insulation, in order to get more interior volume and perhaps more attractive, stylish units (form over function). Another culprit was auto defrost cycles that went by timer rather than need; more modern efficient units only run the defrost cycle when sensors detect ice buildup on coils.

BTW, the foam insulation on one of my circa 2000 KA fridges leaves something to be desired. Apparently it sometimes would shrink in time, causing the sides (and doors) of the units to bow and buckle. I happen to have one of these defective units; Whirlpool was so uncooperative when I sent them photos of the caved in doors that I gave up trying to get it fixed.
 
I should get a Kill-A-Watt thingamajig and see what the 1960 Monkey Wards Tru-Cold in the basement is costing to run.  It's an upright, and has been in continuous operation except for defrostings, intervals for which are measured in years.  About every four or five years would probably be good to shoot for.  Until I defrosted it this past July, it had been eight years, which was way too long.

 

I could get by with something smaller, but the Tru-Cold is forever stuck in the basement due to some reconfiguration at the top of the stairs some 50 years ago, so switching it out isn't an option.

 

Eight year old file photos:

rp2813-2017091102114201087_1.jpg

rp2813-2017091102114201087_2.jpg

rp2813-2017091102114201087_3.jpg
 
I just cant stand

Anything new, call it a phobia, but I wouldn't care if a old fridge or freezer DID cost more to run, its built better, its better looking and almost always keeps food better, and I'm looking for a old fridge for my kitchen now, The 7 year old Hotpoint has NEVER kept frozen food worth a darn, and I'm going back to a real fridge with MANUAL defrost.
 
Although Freezers, Great VINTAGE, OLD:

I'm not sure how repairable my in-laws' former Gibson '70's Upright Frost-Clear &/or '80's Montgomery Ward no-name cube could have been--both leaked water & the latter's insulation from the weight of the lid became deteriorating foam! (The older former was actually the later bought, after the newer, latter just quit working...)

-- Dave
 
Can I just say

I hate fridge/freezer combos. I just kinda hate them. If it were up to me, I'd have an industrial fridge, and an industrial freezer, just like at the grocery store.

1) Everyone should totes get a kill-o-whatever and send in those numbers for your old/new freezers. I wonder how the vintage uprights do. It would not surprise me in the least if the numbers were all over the place. I bet some old brands don't age as well, or the different conditions like fullness or location have a part to play.

2) I don't care if its a new or old freezer, I would want the food in there to be able to stay good for at least 2 days, at least. No matter if your old freezer finally gives up the ghost, or if your new one runs thru it's planned life cycle, I'd want to know I would at least have 2 days.

3) Combo52, tell me more of these modern compressors because everything I'm reading, and I mean everything seems to say that there is the potential for these energy-star darlings to basically work themselves to death. It's the efficiency trade-off I guess. And everything I've been hearing is that these freezers are going to last 15 years tops. Please, please, tell me more!

*And as far as old stuff running better... I mean yeah, I have the vintage hobart KA dishwasher, but... this is a freezer. I mean, a Manual. Defrost. Chest. Freezer. Is there anything inherently simpler? I'm thinkin' no. So maybe new isn't so awful.
 
surprise! surprise!.....they do make, in fact JohnL and myself have a set of ALL fridges, and ALL Freezers....

they fit side by side if needed, giving the look of a side by side, just wider!

if I am correct, his has the ice maker built inside...and the units are built in to his kitchen layout.....if I had the space, mine would be too....

check the link, Sears still has them.....

 
On this side of the pond

We have a Liebherr chest freezer from some time in the early 2000s and a small build in upright IKEA from 2012 I think.

When the build in AEG that came with the kitchen in 1987 broke, I emailed them about the consumption, and the reply stated it uses about 1kWh per day. The new replacement, while being in the lower end of todays efficency ratings (A+ on a scale from A to A+++), uses half that, saveing us about 5€ a month.
And that is on a really small model with only about 3.6ft³.

However, when we were deciding if we should replace our ~10 year old build in fridge after one of the hinges broke, it turns out that we would only save like 1-2€ a month with a A+++ rated fridge.

So, I think with really old cooling appliances, savings can be really big.

On the topic of NoFrost freezers (that's what hey are called here), a sales person here once made a really good point:
For a freezer that is used as a long term storage and thus isn't opend that often, there is verry little air exchange happening that could cause ice buildup. There, automatic defrosting can have negative effects due to temperature fluctuations and the higher energy usage of the defrost cycles.
For freezers opend more frequenly, the slightly reduced holding time of food dosen't matter as much and due to the faster ice buildup from more frequent opening, a NoFrost system has less of an impact on the efficency due to the better efficency of heat exchange without ice buildup.

On inverters: I know that a lot of really high efficency fridges and freezers over here do use inverter controlled compressors. Most give a 10 year warranty on compressor and inverter.
In theory, a well controlled inverter cooling system can keep food fresher for longer with less energy usage.
Instead of cycleing on and off, an inverter system is usually designed to run non-stop, with the lowest power setting being just enough to compensate for heat loss via insulation. That keps the temperature really consistent in theory and saves energy and wear as normal compressors have high start-up currents.
If the door is opend and&#92or fresh food is added, power is ramped up immediatley and temperature loss is compensated rapidly.
Some systems go as far as to learn the day&#92night cycle: The first few days after turning on, they run with a slightly higher temperature reserve and check when the doors are opend and when not. Then, they adapt and allow for bigger temperature tollerances during phases of the day when doors are less likely to be opend and thus need lower compressor power during that time.
 
Don't poo poo energy efficient refrigeration...

Here in California electricity use above a subsistence level (@ $0.20/KWh) costs nearly $0.30/KWh. In most households refrigeration is a major, if not the major, consumer of electrical energy. Therefore getting an energy star refrigeration unit definitely can cut one's energy bills, and is nothing to scoff at.

In the past if you wanted separate upright freezers and fridges, you had to get commercial units which were rarely if ever energy efficient. I guess now there are Energy Star versions, although I haven't seen them. I get by with an Energy Star fridge/freezer and an energy efficient chest freezer. By replacing 70's-80's era units with Energy Star units (circa 2000) I cut refrigeration energy consumption by 2/3. Again, nothing to sneeze at. About 3200 KWh/yr down to about 1200 KWh/yr. At $.30/KWh, that's $600/yr saved. Not inconsequential!
 

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