Champion (Parnall) Spin-Washer - Disassembly.

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Tub removal

To get the tub and gear box out you need to remove the clutch housing and drive and brake cone from under the machine . The gear box and tub ( all attached ) will slide out upwards ..
I really wouldn’t open the bell housing on the gear box unless there is a known problem . Did you get the service manual okay ? The only time you would need to get the complete unit out is to service the snubber seal … call me if you get stuck . Regards Darren
 
I'm delighted to inform everyone of my progress. I took the day off to study Step 7 in the service manual, as well as the Clutch Helix and Brake assembly diagram on page 22.

I carefully laid the machine on its side and supported both tubs with towels. The manual was a tremendous help to me and allowed me to take apart the base with relative ease. I almost made an error standing the machine up to undo the clamp bar, as the tub and brake drum unexpectedly slid down, but everything appears to be fine.

Brake drum removed, I slid the tub, gearbox, and shaft out of the tub while it was on its side, reasoning that I probably wouldn't be able to lift it standing because of the weight. And there it was! The inner tub came right out of the machine, revealing the inside of the outer tub. It really isn't looking too bad in there, I can totally get that cleaned up just fine. I don't know how the tub seal is, but it'll be easier to tell once it's clean.

The rest of the disassembly is looking very much accomplishable, now that the tub, clutch, and brake assembly are finally out of the picture. I'm looking forward to resuming my progress tomorrow. Thanks Darren for the service manual!

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Disassembly is pretty much complete now. I left the Snubber Seal assembly on the outer tub in just case it was one of those Do-Not-Disturb assemblies. The Motor, Capacitor, Pump, and Pressure container have all been removed from the base, and the outer tub has been disconnected from it as well.

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Oil level

Well done and good work stripping the machine . As the oil came down the side of the drive shaft I would try and replace the oil down the same way . You could make a small reservoir with a plastic bag and some strong elastic bands to allow the oil to seep down the drive shaft Do you have any idea how much oil you lost . The service document will tell you the quantity I think it was shell Trocus oil ?? Just an idea ?
 
Transmission update:

I don't think the source of the oil leak was from the drive shaft. A look at the bottom of the machine's agitator revealed no signs of oil runoff from the shaft. Furthermore, when I decided to investigate how much oil was left in the transmission by successfully removing the agitator tube, there turned out to be a lot more oil missing than I expected.

This uncertainty with the leak left me puzzled. The only theory I could think of was that oil came through the basket clamp ring via a leak in the main oil seal. I'm currently working on fixing this issue.

In other news, I will be beginning the cleanup process soon. Everything is just about organized for that to happen.

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Hi Gabriel,

You are making fantastic progress with the Champion washer !! You have definitely taken on a challenge there and you have delved much deeper than i ever would with my Parnall Spinwasher.

Keep up the great work and look forward to seeing the working machine in due course.

Cheers
Keith

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Snubber Seal

So the snubber seal is still in the outer tub, and I've been investigating it some more. It's probably a good idea to put a plastic bag over it during cleaning so that no water gets on the inside.

But after I clean the tub, the snubber seal is going to need some attention. The outer part of the seal looks fine to me, but the inner part does not. It's the complete opposite of dry, giving off an almost melted appearance. Perhaps the correct word is rotten. There are two visible tears in it, both small, but they will have to be addressed if the machine is to hold water properly.

I know how to remove the outer snubber so that I can look at repairing the inner seal, but first, I'll gather your thoughts.

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Any seal progress

How did you get on with the seal issues it looks like the oil leak may have damaged the rubber ….. ?? It doesn’t look as bad and is repairable
…. Can you post some
More photos of the seal inside and out and also what’s the counter surface made of ?
Keep us posted Darren
 
Snubber Seal update

I was able to successfully remove the seal from the outer tub. I also discovered why it wasn't matching the picture in the service manual, as the upper half of the seal had apparently flexed into itself. Flexing it back to shape is great because it makes it easier for me to get it cleaned up and repaired.

I will give the seal a light wipe-down on the outside to remove the dirt from there. For the inside, I'll probably remove the top part and do the same steps as the outside, and there looks to be a lot of debris residing there.

To repair it, I'll leave it in the freezer to solidify it enough to patch the holes with gasket maker, especially that top piece. And we'll see what happens from there.

If by the counter surface you mean the top of the machine, that's made of porcelain, with the exception of the lid which almost feels like plastic.

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Can you post a few more pictures

When it’s cleaned up and sorted I think it will be just fine …. I remember the terrible
Gunk on the one I did . Was almost like a green oily slime ?? But it cleaned up
Fine and worked …!!
Before you put it back on the machine can you send a few more photos … thanks Darren
 
Seal Update

This update has mixed news. The good results came from the main snubber, which cleaned up rather great I must admit. Flexible and moisturized, that part is definitely reusable. The absorber tube is not perfect after cleaning, but it's certainly much better than it was when I first pulled it out and can be reused.

It's not looking good for the upper seal. Placing it in the freezer didn't help much to solidify it enough for cleaning. Moreover, there are actually two holes in the seal, and the inside looks very rough along with the lip. I am beginning to doubt my ability to repair it. While it probably isn't impossible, I was wondering how easy it would be to get my hands on a replacement?

I'll see what else I can do about it, but that's where everything stands for now.

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All good don’t worry

The main cone is great which is perfect . Much the same on my mk11 spinwasher with the top looking
a bit shabby . What I did was to have a non ferrous collar machined to go over the top of the main shaft of the tub and then use a modern lip seal onto the main snubber . The outer dimension need to sit into the top of the cone … you can then apply a stainless clamp to hold the new seal in place . Find someone who can do laithe work it sounds complicated but any good bearing shop will sell the modern seal … . The non ferrous collar is the key to the seal as the main drive shaft is made of steel and won’t hold a seal … .. best wishes Darren
 
This may help

This was from one of the Bendix machines I’ve done in the past . The older mechanical seals were impossible to find so this is where the conversion cloaking to the drive shaft was done . You may be able to see what my friend with the laithe was able to do . Really good job ….

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Seal update:

I apologize for the stall in updates. The collar alternative is currently unachievable for me in my current circumstances. But that being said, that didn't stop me from continuing on with my original idea. I believe I may have pulled off a successful repair...

It was a careful job, but I wiped the good parts of the seal housing clean. Then, I took the gasket maker that I had on hand and sealed up the two holes as well as other wrinkled spots along the edge. On the inside, slowly but surely, I rebuilt the edges where the spring is held in place, and I also sealed the holes from the inside. Additionally, I revived the spring for good measure.

Spring and clamp secure, it appears to be functioning as designed. The spring no longer pops out like before, and it can hold the housing up even when it is pushed down. The water seal is fine, but I'll be putting some Vasoline around where it sits in the housing, just to be safe.

For now, things are looking up for the Snubber Seal Assembly. Thanks for your suggestions!

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Update

I don't have a photograph to put with this reply, but I am just letting everyone know that I finished all of the small parts on my table, apart from the control panel. Everything from the Pump to the Agitator Tube is looking a lot better than previously. All I need to do now is dedicate a day to cleaning the larger components with my Power Washer. Then, that should hopefully wrap up the cleaning phase of the repair.
 
Big parts update

Here is a video of me cleaning the bigger components with the power washer. It wasn't as effective as I thought it would be, but I guess that's what happens when the stains are over 50 years old. I finished them off by hand, and I'll include some pictures of everything in my next post.
 
17/04/2024 update

I have some new updates on the Champion washing machine.

Firstly, I went to Bunnings and purchased myself some cans of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. I then began spray-painting the panels and the machine's base plate. I've never painted appliances before, so I used the back panel as my practice piece before doing the others. It turned out slightly rough and patchy, but I was fine with that since it was at the back of the machine. Moreover, I improved at spraying with the other parts.

I finished the last piece a couple of days ago, and everything looks great. I can't wait to see what it all looks like when it's reassembled. I'll include photos here soon.
 
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