redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
The only sticking point is to get the tub nut wrench. It seems to me that it's not bad in price and easily found.
P/N:38313
RCD
P/N:38313
RCD
Changing a Maytag tub bearing and seal: A how to...
- Thread starter redcarpetdrew
- Start date
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travlincub321
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2009
- Messages
- 534
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scrubflex
Well-known member
This thread is so unbelievably helpful, simply awesome! Just as Volveguy87 asked, would you be willing to post a similar guide on...
how to open the Dependable (HELICAL) transmission,
remove the gasket and "o" ring, remove the gears,
clean it out,
re-install the gears correctly,
how to properly change the transmission oil and put everything back together.
how to open the Dependable (HELICAL) transmission,
remove the gasket and "o" ring, remove the gears,
clean it out,
re-install the gears correctly,
how to properly change the transmission oil and put everything back together.
travlincub321
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2009
- Messages
- 534
Hes wikipedia of maytag repair... LoL, looking through some control panels last night he knew just about every model number and then some..Very lucky to have him around... And his junk pile too
Andy and Dan - you guys did a great job! Great pictorial and set of instructions. Learned some good hints and tips that the Maytag lit doesn't cover. I guess they wanted everyone to learn the hard way 
Ben
Ben
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
By popular request: Part Numbers!
Part numbers have been asked for so here they are with sub numbers according to my parts supplier...
Mounting stem repair kit 204012 (sub number 6-2095720)
Tub bearing repair kit 204013 (sub number 6-2040130)
Agitator drive shaft seal Y0A4298 (sub number 6-0A57420)
Bolt & gasket assy (short) 200744 (sub number W10175939)
Bolt & gasket assy (long) 205254 (currently still a good number)
Enjoy! I've gotten a good amount of E-mail responses from you folks telling me that you have washers needing this repair and with this post, courage to do it has been bolstered! Thank you for your responses! They have shown me that, in my small way, I have helped...
RCD
Part numbers have been asked for so here they are with sub numbers according to my parts supplier...
Mounting stem repair kit 204012 (sub number 6-2095720)
Tub bearing repair kit 204013 (sub number 6-2040130)
Agitator drive shaft seal Y0A4298 (sub number 6-0A57420)
Bolt & gasket assy (short) 200744 (sub number W10175939)
Bolt & gasket assy (long) 205254 (currently still a good number)
Enjoy! I've gotten a good amount of E-mail responses from you folks telling me that you have washers needing this repair and with this post, courage to do it has been bolstered! Thank you for your responses! They have shown me that, in my small way, I have helped...
RCD
steve1-18
New member
Will definitely have to bookmark this thread!
Thanks.
Thanks.
I'm with Scrubflex----would like to coax you into a tutorial on changing the oil and gasket/rebuild of the Helical tranny.
Almost every old Maytag owver I know of has a machine that needs help right now. Of course, it just wouldn't be an old Maytag if it didn't fling a bit of oil now and then.
Almost every old Maytag owver I know of has a machine that needs help right now. Of course, it just wouldn't be an old Maytag if it didn't fling a bit of oil now and then.
oil and gasket/rebuild of the Helical tranny.
Not to step on RCD's territory, but I'll probably be the one doing that thread. I have 7-8 transmissions (thanks to RDC) ranging from 1961-1986 and can show the differences between them all during their years of production and what to look out for. I can also show how to increase that 54 OPM agitation to 63 with the swap of a gear and pitman arm
Currently, I'm trying to find a DIY removal of the pin for the upper shaft removal. I pounded like hell on that thing with a 10 pound sledge and couldn't get it to budge on any of the tranny's. I ended paying nearly $100 for a machine shop to remove it for just one transmission. Not exactly cheap nor a diy situation. Once I find the trick, I'll post the thread. If someone here knows the trick, please speak up!!!
Not to step on RCD's territory, but I'll probably be the one doing that thread. I have 7-8 transmissions (thanks to RDC) ranging from 1961-1986 and can show the differences between them all during their years of production and what to look out for. I can also show how to increase that 54 OPM agitation to 63 with the swap of a gear and pitman arm
Currently, I'm trying to find a DIY removal of the pin for the upper shaft removal. I pounded like hell on that thing with a 10 pound sledge and couldn't get it to budge on any of the tranny's. I ended paying nearly $100 for a machine shop to remove it for just one transmission. Not exactly cheap nor a diy situation. Once I find the trick, I'll post the thread. If someone here knows the trick, please speak up!!!
GE roll pin?
When I was replacing the clutch on my grandmother's old GE Filter Flo (now mine)there was a roll pin connecting the clutch to the motor. That little bugger was beyond a b**ch to remove. I took it to a local appliance repair shop and they removed it for me, but they made me promise never to bring them another one of those again. Supposedly GE had a tool for removing this pin, but I don't know the part number or what it looked like. Maybe it would be useful in your application.
Dave
When I was replacing the clutch on my grandmother's old GE Filter Flo (now mine)there was a roll pin connecting the clutch to the motor. That little bugger was beyond a b**ch to remove. I took it to a local appliance repair shop and they removed it for me, but they made me promise never to bring them another one of those again. Supposedly GE had a tool for removing this pin, but I don't know the part number or what it looked like. Maybe it would be useful in your application.
Dave
bobbyderegis
Well-known member
Drew:
Thanks for a fabulous pictorial. Could you comment on the aluminum tub nut? Every one I have come across has been frozen solid onto the mounting stem. Every time I tried to use the spanner wrench the entire mounting stem assembly would start to turn, stripping the threads because of the set screw. Apart from cutting the nut off the stem, (which I always seem to have to do) what else can be done? Thanks again for a great and informative thread!
Bobby in Boston
Thanks for a fabulous pictorial. Could you comment on the aluminum tub nut? Every one I have come across has been frozen solid onto the mounting stem. Every time I tried to use the spanner wrench the entire mounting stem assembly would start to turn, stripping the threads because of the set screw. Apart from cutting the nut off the stem, (which I always seem to have to do) what else can be done? Thanks again for a great and informative thread!
Bobby in Boston
scrubflex
Well-known member
RCD's territory
Hey Qsd-dan, the more the better. I'm sure your pictorial/tutorial will be just as AWESOME. Please remember to explain "how tight and how tight is too tight" also "how much and how much is too much". Question, is it possible to change the agitation arc in the Maytag transmission. Do you know what gear controls the arc stroke?
You know, I wondered if the gears from the Dependable (HELICAL) transmission could be interchanged with the Wilkins SERVIS (Maytag) transmission that has a 210 DEGREE Agitation Arc. Think about it...the Power-Fin agiator with a 63 OPM agitation stroke and a 210 degree agitation arc... this would be NICE.
Harry
Hey Qsd-dan, the more the better. I'm sure your pictorial/tutorial will be just as AWESOME. Please remember to explain "how tight and how tight is too tight" also "how much and how much is too much". Question, is it possible to change the agitation arc in the Maytag transmission. Do you know what gear controls the arc stroke?
You know, I wondered if the gears from the Dependable (HELICAL) transmission could be interchanged with the Wilkins SERVIS (Maytag) transmission that has a 210 DEGREE Agitation Arc. Think about it...the Power-Fin agiator with a 63 OPM agitation stroke and a 210 degree agitation arc... this would be NICE.
Harry
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
Not to step on RCD's territory
Dan, I'm good with that but ONLY if you can spell my name...LOL!!!
RDC oppps I mean RCD...
Dan, I'm good with that but ONLY if you can spell my name...LOL!!!
RDC oppps I mean RCD...
Tub Nut Wrench
I just thought I would add a photo of the tub nut wrench I bought....
This one is supposed to work for both Maytag AND KM/WP machines (others too?) and it was about $12.
Kevin
I just thought I would add a photo of the tub nut wrench I bought....
This one is supposed to work for both Maytag AND KM/WP machines (others too?) and it was about $12.
Kevin
Atta Boy!
Thank you for posting this wonderful series. It really should be archived someplace here in the group for fast reference.
Am *thinking* about doing the tub seal change on my leaky Whirlpool, but as the bearings are NLA guess it won't be soon.
L.
Thank you for posting this wonderful series. It really should be archived someplace here in the group for fast reference.
Am *thinking* about doing the tub seal change on my leaky Whirlpool, but as the bearings are NLA guess it won't be soon.
L.
Great Information and Photos
When you install the new cone shaped agitator seal onto the shaft(i.e your secret weapon to reinforce the triple lip seal that is part of the stem),is that seal installed with the thinner edge pointing downward or is it the thicker edge pointing downward?
Thanks - and thanks for posting this work!
When you install the new cone shaped agitator seal onto the shaft(i.e your secret weapon to reinforce the triple lip seal that is part of the stem),is that seal installed with the thinner edge pointing downward or is it the thicker edge pointing downward?
Thanks - and thanks for posting this work!
Tranny roll pin
I’ve had luck installing and removing the roll pin connecting the upper transmission shaft using a pneumatic chisel with a tapered point attachment. You just have to make sure the tranny is planted firmly on a block of wood or other support and keep a firm, straight grip on the chisel so it doesn’t bounce around too much. It works quite well! Hope this helps anyone looking for a DIY solution.
I’ve had luck installing and removing the roll pin connecting the upper transmission shaft using a pneumatic chisel with a tapered point attachment. You just have to make sure the tranny is planted firmly on a block of wood or other support and keep a firm, straight grip on the chisel so it doesn’t bounce around too much. It works quite well! Hope this helps anyone looking for a DIY solution.
Wow - what a blast from the past. I miss Drew and the buzz of the group from around this time frame.
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