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Mine had bothe elements bad..Apperantly the plumber had a bunch left in his shed and was using them up (i saw the box, the energy guide was from 1999ish).. I whent to Homo Depot and bought a GE with 5 year warranty for $200..I had another plumber put it in and called the other plumber to come for his old water heater and to fix a couple other issues
 
Rants, ramblings, observations, opinions on buildings

I have friends and family who live in the affluent suburbs of Dallas. I've been to their houses and I can't believe how much they paid when the fixtures are obviously from the bargain bin. (It does not cost nearly as much to build here, much less than the California price of $200 Sq. Ft. When I first moved to Port Arthur in 1999, admittedly an economically depressed area, I could have a new house built for about $72 Sq. Ft. The cost is now closer to $100-$120 sq. ft.) When the overall costs of building the house are considered, it is not that much more expensive to install good quality (not necessarily top quality) fixtures. If I was going to buy a new home, and I wasn't involved in its design and construction, I would tell the home builder that he would either have to lower his price or upgrade the fixtures if he used crap, or I wouldn't buy.

As far as construction quality, I think older homes are built better than new homes, even with the current building codes. I'm talking pre-1960s construction. After 1960, quality became worse and areas that previously had lenient building codes had to toughen them to stop poor quality and dangerous building practices. A couple of reasons for the better quality of pre-1960 construction: the quality of lumber was better, it has since greatly declined (faster growing trees are being planted and harvested in as little as 15-20 years - knotty, twisty, inferior. No old mature trees with good heartwood are available for use now.), and most of these older homes were constructed with shiplap inside and out. This is wood that interlocks via a tongue and groove system. When the 2 X 4 frame was put up, the inside and outside was all shiplapped. Often, the shiplap was applied at a 45 degree angle, the angle inside was reversed from the outside, giving greater strength (one observation on my house: this old wood is HARD. The roofer had a really hard time nailing the new roof on). Shiplap construction is not really feasible today because it would require much more wood to build a house, and it would be cost prohibitive.

My parents 1976 home, while nice, has a lot of slipshod elements. They had to replace the entire master bath area - the builders did not use any moisture barrier under the tile. Other problems can be found through out the home.

My house was built in 1940 and is really solid. Back then, there were no codes for building to meet windstorm ratings like now. They were just built well. My house just withstood a direct hit from Hurricane Rita, and a few other hits in the past. Most of the houses in this area are older and withstood the storm well (except for the ones that the owners basically let rot - but even they were still standing), the major damage was to their roofs, or from trees falling through them. People with old or cheap three tab roofs had damage, people with architectural shingles and/or newer roofs had little damage from the wind (I cannot stress this enough - if you are going to make the effort and spend money to put on a new roof, it does not cost much more to use top quality materials: a cheap three tab roof was only a few hundred dollars cheaper than the architectural shingles I chose. Much of the cost of roofing is the labor, not the materials. I'm a believer after this hurricane: do not use cheap three tab shingles!). Commercial buildings suffered the worst by far, especially ones with big window fronts. Codes for commercial construction are supposed to be tougher, but those buildings did not hold up well. The Sherwin-Williams paint store near me completely collapsed (really impressive to see). The large indoor mall was closed for almost a full year - heavy roof damage. Most of the gas stations also had severe damage. There were tornados associated with Rita and they did cause a lot of damage to houses, but again mostly from trees falling or to the roof. Look at New Orleans. Based on pictures on the news, it looked like most of the old houses withstood the 140mph winds, it was the flooding afterward that basically destroyed the town.

BTW - my house still has the original gas water heater in good working order. It is a Ruud with a monel tank - monel is an alloy, it will probably never corrode. It is 30 gallon. I bought a 50 gallon Sears water heater with a 12 year warranty to run the kitchen and laundry areas. As little as 10 years ago I used to see water heaters with lifetime warranties, but now I can't find any. Another example of crappy modern manufacturing practices, or "Progress" as the manufacturers like to call it. People think I'm strange for using mostly old stuff, but I don't have to buy replacement appliances every five years like they do.
 
Part of the reason why homes from the 40's and 50's might be well-built, despite a huge housing crunch at the time, is the FHA and the VHA (I think I have those acronyms right - they stand for the Federal Housing Administration and Veteran's Housing Administration)

As the soldiers came home from WWII (which took a few years - my dad didn't get back until 1947) there was a huge demand for housing. The GI Bill of Rights offered help with college and with buying a house (which, among other things, helped propel my family out of poverty) but they put a lot of requirements on developers so that they wouldn't just throw up acres of shoddy houses. They had to have a certain amount of storage, be on an appropriate sized lot, be constructed with a high quality materials and so on to be able to get the vet's financing.

Personally, I would never want to live in a brand new house. I like a little bit of history. For instance, I know that the people that we bought this house from were the original owners. They had been in an internment camp during World War II, and that the head of the house was the manager of the picture frame department at the downtown Frederick & Nelson, and that they had two girls - one of whom was born in the camp. (according to the neighbors, who have lived here for 60 years). For some reason, knowing that sort of minutae appeals to me. It's history give the house more character.
 
My house just irritates me to the nth degree..Tonight i found the kitchen counters aren;t held on right and theres more molding missing... The builders have yet to show back up.. They still are owed $36,000 by me.... Fine with me..I will collect the intrest to pay for the needed uprades to fix my shack correctly
 
My home was built in 1941 - just before America entered WWII. Before I purchased it in 1997, the inspector's report stated that it was essentially very well built. Since then I've had occasion to do various improvements on the structure - such as a seismic retrofit on the foundation, and insulating the home, and I'd have to agree - most of the workmanship and timber is top-notch. You simply cannot find lumber as defect-free as what was used for this home, except perhaps at premium boutique prices. The wiring in the original part of the home is knob-and-tube, and it is in great shape. It's clear that whoever installed it was a craftsman and knew what he was doing. There has since been some remodeling and an addition, done in the mid-60's. The addition construction quality is ok, pretty good, but some of the remodel work was kind of scary. A lot of my work insualting the attic had to do with closing off major air leaks caused by the slipshod remodel work.

It's a one story structure, and I didn't notice any shiplap work on the exterior walls (at least on the part I could see in the crawl), but the subfloor in the older part of the home is 1x6 wood that is set at a 45 degree angle to the floor joists. The walls are only 2x4's, 16" on center, but it's good wood and seems quite solid. The rafters are 2x4's 24" o.c., but again good wood, with a hip-roof design that is inherently stronger than a gable roof. The roofing material is heavy cedar shake, about 25 years old now and still in relatively good shape. When it comes time to renew it, I plan on adding 1/2 CDX plywood sheathing on top of the existing gapped 1x4 sheeting (the gaps are needed for natural wood roofing to breathe), which should further strengthen the roof. And of course I'll use premium quality composition shingles - I want the new roof to last as long as possible.
 
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