Coverting a Maytag model de308 220V dryer to 110V

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Not at all Fes. It's only as complicated as it is because safety is involved. NObody knows EVERYthing. I won't get within 6 feet of 480V. That peak is 672V to ground.

True, just plugging the thing the way it was intended is most straightforward where practicable. But I was in similar situation, rented house with no 240V anywhere near the garage. I bought a 120V dryer, completely satisfied with it almost 30 years later.
 
converting 220 dryer to 110

Hi Guys,

I have a Frigidairre Gallery Commercial Heavy Duty Super Capacity Sound Silencer.

I bought it on Craiglist for $160 months ago. When I tried to get someone to install it in my apartment, I was given quotes of 500 and 600 dollars.

I decided to move it into my kitchen close to the sink and convert it to 110 so I wont have to do any fancy or expensive electrical work in this apartment, which I don't own.

Like the guy posting above, I am so tired of hauling my undies up and down 2 flights of stairs, into a car, and back, just to wash them. Currently I have a load of laundry soaking in my bathtub, which is working quite well for the summer.

But come the long cold dark winter, I want to vent this thing (its a stackable set) into the kitchen/living area and heat my apartment while Im drying clothes.

I also have a box of solar panels I plan to set up to generate some or all of the electricity I use. I will eventually need guidance on how to hook up some kind of outlet to the battery pack to access the solar power.

But right now I just want confirmation of the best way to have my guy Wil convert this thing. He is all gung ho (just had his first child and needs odd jobs) but I don't want him to fry himself for the sake of my undie washing.

If you foresee any big difference between the instructions posted above and what Wil would have to do in my situation, let me know.

Also I would like the experts's advice on whether im better off just buying a converter that will up the voltage from the outlet to 220 in order to run the dryer. They are for sale on Amazon for about 25 bucks.
 
I can't speak to the specifics of this particular dryer until I see a wiring diagram. Theoretically you should be able to convert the dryer to 120 if you are willing to triple the drying times.

 

What you need to do is figure out which leg of the 240 volt service is running to the controls, motor and heater and which leg is running ONLY to the other end of the heating element. I do this all of the time when I need to troubleshoot a 240 volts dryer that is not conveniently located to a 240 volt power source (my workspace). All that needs to be done is to connect the 240 terminal that is connected ONLY to the other end of the heating element to the neutral. 

 

Depending on your auto dry system it MAY not work in this configuration. Electronic systems work fine, temperature dependent ones will not.
 
No, it won't.

 

It's rated at 1000 watts. Most electric dryers are rated between 5200 and 5500 watts these days.

 

Now if you had a 60 AMP 120 volt circuit handy AND could find a 6000 watt step-up converter then you would be in business!

 

The only place that I know these to exist are on theatre stages and movie sets where you have 5000 watt 120 volt lighting fixtures.
 
You Can Find 10K Step Up Converters

But the best will require hardwiring into the building's electrical supply.

As one understands such things such converters should have a margin of at least 2x the power draw and or not run at more than 1/3 of total power if one expects the thing to survive. So for a 5Kw dryer you are looking at what? A converter with a continuous rating of 15Kw?
 
Laundress, it all depends on the actual power supply, wiring and the continuous duty rating of the converter. Some converters are rated for continuous duty at 80%, some at 50%.

 

The bigger issue here is going to be a 60 amp 120 volt power supply. It would be FAR cheaper at that point to run the actual 30 AMP 240 volt feed.
 
I think using something that's for 220-240V,50hz/cycles on 110-120V,60 hz
would require ideally a voltage/frequency converter with selectable 220-240/50 hz &
110-120/60 hz inputs & selectable outputs the same as the inputs.
I know that some ships like the Titanic had a 100V DC system throughout but required a DC to AC rotary converter for radiotelegraph use. Don't know when ships began using AC systems other than DC.
 
The Frigidaire in question here is for 220-240 volts, 60 Hz AC current, North American standard.

 

No frequency converter is required.

All of the control components and the motors are designed (and do) run on 120 volt, 60Hz current (one leg to neutral.)

It is ONLY the heating element that operates on 240 volts.

 

Let's not confuse this issue with a bunch of irrelevant historical anecdotes.
 

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