Cracking Open My Westy

[takacedon]

New Pump it is!

Ok ok, I'll get the new pump lol Does someone happen to have a service manual so I can see how to get it out of there? Modern Parts said they had some pumps for the L8 for 60 dollars, which seems reasonable to me. Is
there anything else I need to know about replacing this pump?

Most of the interior rusty parts have been primed with a rust inhibiting enamel, I'll probably pick up some white and light grey (i was just gonna do it all white until someone mentioned points ) enamel today.

 

[3beltwesty]

On a replacement pump the distance from the driven disc to the pump body may or may not be OK as I mentioned already farther up the thread in Reply #11.

If too long the spring is over constrained and will "whip" .

If too short the spring is in tension and the brass bushing on the disc will wear a groove.

Sometimes one has to move the shafts on the drive spring.

 

[3beltwesty]

The short hose that is the input to the pump or may not "be sort of bonded" to the old pump body; thus use caution when removing the hose so it is not ruined.

 

[takacedon]

Today's update

Well I successfully re-corded the machine, though looking at the wires I was really tempted to re-wire the entire thing....but thought better of doing something like that on a whim. I've done some painting, pictures to come tomorrow. Anyone have any tips as to where to locate belts? The autoparts store didn't have one small enough for my machine, and an actual hardware store in Houston is pretty hard to find.

 

[stan]

restoration

Cant wait to see whats next! keep up the good work, we're routing for ya!

 

[takacedon]

Thanks!

Thanks, Stan! I guess today I'll venture around for a belt, I also am wondering what people's thoughts are on painting the entire machine. The outward facing parts are in about 80% good condition, thusfar I've only painted the rusting parts....but I'm tempted to paint the entire thing a gleaming white.....however this requires some disassembly and removal of trim.....so what say you guys?

 

[3beltwesty]

With a repainting some others on this forum have repainted the entire frame on your type vintage machine. In some old searches in the past I remember seeing others paint jobs. One I remember on this or another sited used the same Rust Bullet rust prep that I used 5 years ago on badly rusted spots.

Of course with painting the bulk of the labor cost ie time is prep work and masking off things. A poor prep will have the paint fail quicker.

On the parts that are porcelain, paint will not stick as well. The tubs is typically poreclain; and sometimes some frame stuff to.

A partial paint job on the outside will often show and look worse than no repainting. Just painting the two sides tends to hide a repaint since the eye looses the effect due to the corners.

With my 1976 westy it really is a user machine, I repainted just the bottom 2 feet that went under salt water. To match the harvest gold via Home Depot/Lowes/Walmart/Paint stores was not close! I ended up using Almond colored Appliance Spray paint. A purist collector would cringe; a practical user would on mine may not care.

Here I sort of worry about removing trim that I have never removed before! I have often ruined things due to missing tabs etc. Thus here I tend to mask things!

 

[takacedon]

Well I'm licked for the day

While trying to install the new belt - I have no idea how to loosen the pullies or slacken them - I noticed that one of the snubbers was resting directly against teh tub while the other was resting against a piece of metal. I assumed the one resting on the metal was right and went to fix that, but in 90 degree heat and half bent inside a laundromat, I decided I was licked until I get the service manual on monday.

 

[3beltwesty]

Many times a belt can be placed on via leaving the pulleys all in place. One uses a thin 3/16" screwdriver's shaft between the belt and pulley and rotates the largest dia pulley by hand and the belt rolls over the pulley edge.

 

[takacedon]

No dice

I just ran down and tried that, couldn't get it to work. I'll attribute it to my exhaustion and the heat lol

 

[stan]

Paint

Trevor. I can tell you how I repainted my Maytag E2L. not sure if you want to go to this much work, but here goes... I wet sanded it first and washed down good. Since I hate water based spray paint, I decided to use oil based Rustolium (white can) (high gloss) thinned slightly, and applied with a 2" high density foam roller, waited a couple of days. and lightly re wet sanded with 000 sandpaper, wiped down well (tack cloth) gave a second coat, Two more days went by, re wet sanded, 000 sand paper, wiped down, and finished with Meguiar's fine cut-cleaner, and later buffed. I was able to get a new decal and such to give the finishing touch.
Of course you have a lot more trim, and details to mask, and watch out for on your Westy, so you'd have to use your own judgement.
I know the factory used oil based enamel, so that's why I did (tying to get the same look and durability, or as close as I could) I'm sure someone here will chime in with a better idea on how to do this, This is just how I did it. Take your time, I know you can get her up and running, with a fresh new face. I'll be watching LOL Stan

 

[takacedon]

Ee gads

Nertz to that! I'll just touchup the rusty spots (which aren't in the visible places.)

 

[syndets2000]

pump stuff

you will see a bolt that the holds the tranny to the tub assembly on your rite side- its used to lessen or increase tension somewhat on the motor to trans belt- you can turn it & the tranny will move just slightly enough to get the belt on the pully-as to the noise you are hearing, I suggest replacing the pump with a new one ( the black ones fit best..) also, check the pump drive wheel on the MOTOR- over time the rubber tire begins to sepaarate from the metal pully, when it starts to rust under the rubber- Thats a common thing if the unit sits unused for awhile, & it makes ALOT of noise!!

 

[syndets2000]

motor pully

this is what it can look like- I have wondered about using the newer slider clutch pully, but I have not found a belt to fit it, & the rpms the tub makes might be different

 

[syndets2000]

My Westinghouse lab ha ha

 

[hilovane]

I like the way you've "Frankestein'ed" the '57 with the turquoise kick panel, and the '53, with the '54-'55 top and turquoise door.

 

[takacedon]

ah HA!

So that pulley DOES come off! My machine was allegedly in use up until 8 months ago, and the pulley looks just fine, I guess more WD40 is in oder.

 

[3beltwesty]

PB nut blaster or Kroil works better than WD40 to remove a stubborn stuck item

 

[takacedon]

Nut Oil & Kroil

Are these to be found at Lowes or a more traditional hardware store (and I totally found one in Houston!)

 

[3beltwesty]

PB nut blaster is at Walmart in the automotive area, it is in Auto parts stores sometimes too. Kroil is on ebay; at Johnston Supply and sometimes at gun stores. It is better but harder to find.

 

[takacedon]

Changing the belt

Ok I STILL can't get this new belt on, what the hell am I doing wrong? I got the service manual, loosened the adjusting nut on the spring, no dice. Anyone?

 

[appnut]

usage Guide

Trevor, I found this in the archives and wanted to post this here.  It may not be your exact model, but they werer pretty much the same back then and this may give you an idea of what's on the dial and such. 

 

[3beltwesty]

Bonderized

"Bonderized steel is simply galvanized steel that in the process of manufacture, the steel is put through a phosphate bath and chromate dry. "

http://www.baycitiesmetalproducts.com/html/specbond.html

 

[takacedon]

Belt

Well, unless I can get the speed changer pulley off or that nut loosened I'm at an impass. That bolt is just not moving....unless maybe I go out and get a torque wrench.

 

[3beltwesty]

have you messed with the belt adjustments yet?

For clarity; Which belt are you changing?

(1) Belt from AC motor to speed changer?

(2) Belt from speed changer to giant round tub pulley?

***By you images; I gather it is (1).

Here I am a bit rusty on this (others jump in and correct me);

but I remember that the speed changer gizmo is what one messes with to adjust the belt tension. ie the coil spring is around an adjusting screw that is slotted. The bracket arm that holds the speed changer is an eccentric nut that is loosened and fiddled with too.

If the adjustments are stuck ; then bombing them with PB nut buster of Kroil and waiting should be done. There is no use in breaking anything. Stubborn things need time!

 

[3beltwesty]

BELT ADJUSTMENTS GIZMOS

.

Slotted feature at end of (1); eccentric on (2)

This is your image that I marked up.

Hopefully others can chine in and correct or improve the way these are fooled with. My guess is that to replace a belt ; an adjustment can be "backed off" instead of you trying to remove the motor pulley.

 

[takacedon]

You are correct

It's #1, I guess I have to go back and re-read the names of things in that manual, but you're right, Belt from AC motor to speed changer. I did fiddle with the gizmo and the tension didn't seem to lesson, at least not to a degree to get this thing on. I guess I'll go get some nut blaster and soak down that other nut, not the belt tension-spring-thing, but the one to the right of that. Or does the pulley from the a/c motor come off?

 

[combo52]

REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THE BELTS

The belts just roll off the pulleys on these older WH washers, no tools are even needed the spring tensor will compress as you remove the belts. It is not necessary or a good idea to remove pulleys etc to change belts.

 

[3beltwesty]

I too cannot imagine that Westinghouse would have required to remove the motor pulley to replace the belt. I never saw our old earlier westy machine have a belt replaced this way.

In similar devices I use a small thin screwdriver between the belt and pulley and rotate the device/pulley by hand and "roll it on"

Here is a PDF that says NOT to do this too. *IF* the pulley has a sharp sheet metal edge one can cut the belt; I did this once on a mower deck eons ago.

In the few belts I have ruined it was by my careless prying instead of loosening up adjustments and rolling them on.

I think today many places do not want to be sued; thus older ways are now called the wrong way. ie no pinched finger lawsuits or Goober/Gomer having the motor turn on and fingers get lost.

***Maybe there is so much rust that the springable tension spring is not working; ie speed changer's pivots frozen up?

http://www.molinebearing.com/documents/MolinePulleyApplicationGuide.pdf

 

[3beltwesty]

Isn't adjustment

(1) more for the vertical belt that goes for to the Large pulley;

and 2) more the eccentric for the horizontal belt ( motor to gear changer) ?