Cracking Open My Westy

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Paint

Trevor. I can tell you how I repainted my Maytag E2L. not sure if you want to go to this much work, but here goes... I wet sanded it first and washed down good. Since I hate water based spray paint, I decided to use oil based Rustolium (white can) (high gloss) thinned slightly, and applied with a 2" high density foam roller, waited a couple of days. and lightly re wet sanded with 000 sandpaper, wiped down well (tack cloth) gave a second coat, Two more days went by, re wet sanded, 000 sand paper, wiped down, and finished with Meguiar's fine cut-cleaner, and later buffed. I was able to get a new decal and such to give the finishing touch.
Of course you have a lot more trim, and details to mask, and watch out for on your Westy, so you'd have to use your own judgement.
I know the factory used oil based enamel, so that's why I did (tying to get the same look and durability, or as close as I could) I'm sure someone here will chime in with a better idea on how to do this, This is just how I did it. Take your time, I know you can get her up and running, with a fresh new face. I'll be watching LOL Stan
 
pump stuff

you will see a bolt that the holds the tranny to the tub assembly on your rite side- its used to lessen or increase tension somewhat on the motor to trans belt- you can turn it & the tranny will move just slightly enough to get the belt on the pully-as to the noise you are hearing, I suggest replacing the pump with a new one ( the black ones fit best..) also, check the pump drive wheel on the MOTOR- over time the rubber tire begins to sepaarate from the metal pully, when it starts to rust under the rubber- Thats a common thing if the unit sits unused for awhile, & it makes ALOT of noise!!
 
motor pully

this is what it can look like- I have wondered about using the newer slider clutch pully, but I have not found a belt to fit it, & the rpms the tub makes might be different

syndets2000++5-8-2011-14-30-11.jpg
 
I like the way you've "Frankestein'ed" the '57 with the turquoise kick panel, and the '53, with the '54-'55 top and turquoise door.
 
ah HA!

So that pulley DOES come off! My machine was allegedly in use up until 8 months ago, and the pulley looks just fine, I guess more WD40 is in oder.
 
PB nut blaster is at Walmart in the automotive area, it is in Auto parts stores sometimes too. Kroil is on ebay; at Johnston Supply and sometimes at gun stores. It is better but harder to find.
 
Changing the belt

Ok I STILL can't get this new belt on, what the hell am I doing wrong? I got the service manual, loosened the adjusting nut on the spring, no dice. Anyone?
 
usage Guide

Trevor, I found this in the archives and wanted to post this here.  It may not be your exact model, but they werer pretty much the same back then and this may give you an idea of what's on the dial and such. 

appnut++5-10-2011-23-15-40.jpg
 
Belt

Well, unless I can get the speed changer pulley off or that nut loosened I'm at an impass. That bolt is just not moving....unless maybe I go out and get a torque wrench.
 
have you messed with the belt adjustments yet?

For clarity; Which belt are you changing?

(1) Belt from AC motor to speed changer?

(2) Belt from speed changer to giant round tub pulley?

***By you images; I gather it is (1).

Here I am a bit rusty on this (others jump in and correct me);

but I remember that the speed changer gizmo is what one messes with to adjust the belt tension. ie the coil spring is around an adjusting screw that is slotted. The bracket arm that holds the speed changer is an eccentric nut that is loosened and fiddled with too.

If the adjustments are stuck ; then bombing them with PB nut buster of Kroil and waiting should be done. There is no use in breaking anything. Stubborn things need time!
 
BELT ADJUSTMENTS GIZMOS

.

Slotted feature at end of (1); eccentric on (2)

This is your image that I marked up.

Hopefully others can chine in and correct or improve the way these are fooled with. My guess is that to replace a belt ; an adjustment can be "backed off" instead of you trying to remove the motor pulley.

3beltwesty++5-12-2011-08-56-53.jpg
 
You are correct

It's #1, I guess I have to go back and re-read the names of things in that manual, but you're right, Belt from AC motor to speed changer. I did fiddle with the gizmo and the tension didn't seem to lesson, at least not to a degree to get this thing on. I guess I'll go get some nut blaster and soak down that other nut, not the belt tension-spring-thing, but the one to the right of that. Or does the pulley from the a/c motor come off?
 
I too cannot imagine that Westinghouse would have required to remove the motor pulley to replace the belt. I never saw our old earlier westy machine have a belt replaced this way.

In similar devices I use a small thin screwdriver between the belt and pulley and rotate the device/pulley by hand and "roll it on"

Here is a PDF that says NOT to do this too. *IF* the pulley has a sharp sheet metal edge one can cut the belt; I did this once on a mower deck eons ago.

In the few belts I have ruined it was by my careless prying instead of loosening up adjustments and rolling them on.

I think today many places do not want to be sued; thus older ways are now called the wrong way. ie no pinched finger lawsuits or Goober/Gomer having the motor turn on and fingers get lost.

***Maybe there is so much rust that the springable tension spring is not working; ie speed changer's pivots frozen up?

 

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