Custom Control for Unimatic

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lebron

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2009
Messages
887
Location
Minnesota
Hello all. The timer on my 1955 Unimatic was toast so I decided to wire up my own semi-automatic control. The first picture is the wiring of the control board and fuse. This entire thing is serviced from the original motor protector switch. I know little about electricity so I'm sure it could have been done a lot better, but I just wanted to throw this together to see if it would work. The washer seems fine and functions just like a normal Unimatic. Is there a backplate for behind the console? I wish I knew more about electricity and computers, but I had an idea. This is controlled by manual switches. Instead of a board of toggles could I have a board of relays? How can I control the relays then with a computer? I would probably need my own little 12V system that could interface with a computer program. Fun to dream if I had more time and resources :D

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Does anyone know how many amps a Unimatic draws during spin startup?

What about during full speed spin?

And finally agitation?

I assume it would actually draw more amps during agitation than once it is spinning full speed?
 
Hey there Jed,

Great start so far! I've been using the following relay when restoring Unimatics, to control the motor via the original timer. It's listed at 30A @ 240v, which is plenty sufficient to carry the load for the transmission and moves the heat/current load from the delicate timers to these heavy-duty and easily replaceable relays.

https://www.grainger.com/product/OMRON-100-120VAC-4A711

Omron PN - G7L-1A-TUBJ-CB-AC100/120

If you are planning on having a low voltage controller/PC interface in place, I'd look at this 12v DC relay for the motor -

https://www.grainger.com/product/OMRON-12VDC-1YCX3

Omron PN G7L-1A-TUBJ-CB-DC12

For the water valve and the spin solenoid, you can probably get away with a relay that's rated at 10A 120v to control those devices.

Good Luck!

Ben
 
A couple controllers come to mind that are affordable and fairly easy to learn: Arduino and Raspberry Pi
There is tons of info and interface boards available for both platforms. You could even hook them up to the Internet and control them remotely, etc. I thought about doing this with my Maytags, but they are my daily drivers, so I'm a bit skittish about messing with them.

Good luck!
 
I totally forgot about Roberts’

Rah-Hah Frigidaire test !! What a throw back! Nice Revive Eddie !!

That first machine is a Unimatic and it drew between 25-26 amps. The second machine, it is a Pulsamatic different altogether it drew 12 amps at spin-start before the start winding cutout.

I have tested several of my Unimatics and found the draw to be 25-26 amps in spin-start— HUGE !!

So that relay Ben pointed out will work just fine. I put one in my 57 Charcoal washer as the timer contacts were overheating on spin-start and that relay now lets the timer run cool and smooth
 

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