HELP! My father-in-law has a DE806 that is not heating. I have ordered a new element. The diagram on the part package shows the part being installed by removing the rear panel. But after doing that, it's obvious that the element is at the front of the dryer (I can see the connection terminals at the upper right of the dryer). How do I remove the front panel, etc., to get to the heating element?
DE806 Maytag dryer
- Thread starter ncsu67
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pturo
New member
If it is a halo-of-heat model which it sounds like, it can only be serviced by removing the entire cabinet, starting from the back.
The way to tell, see if there are two screws on the very bottom front of the cabinet. If there are, then it is front-servicable. If there are not, then it is rear serviceable.
Let me know?
Philip
The way to tell, see if there are two screws on the very bottom front of the cabinet. If there are, then it is front-servicable. If there are not, then it is rear serviceable.
Let me know?
Philip
Look before you leap
This just happened to me, I bought a vintage 1966 HOH DE806 that is practically mint. It operated on the first try but didn't heat. I was just getting ready to remove the whole cabinet when I got the bright idea to PUT MY GLASSES ON(recent farsightedness hasn't been accepted yet) and look at all the connections in the back first. I found, on second examination, a black wire that had come loose from the outflow thermostat. Reconnected it by hand and bingo! -- everything worked.
This just happened to me, I bought a vintage 1966 HOH DE806 that is practically mint. It operated on the first try but didn't heat. I was just getting ready to remove the whole cabinet when I got the bright idea to PUT MY GLASSES ON(recent farsightedness hasn't been accepted yet) and look at all the connections in the back first. I found, on second examination, a black wire that had come loose from the outflow thermostat. Reconnected it by hand and bingo! -- everything worked.
Connections
As Ken mentioned above, look at ALL connections before replacing the heating element. Overtime, the tape wrapped around the wiring harnesses get weak and sags, causing the wiring to hit the drum and wear right through a wire.......or tear up a an entire wiring harness. The above has happened to both of my 806's.
As Ken mentioned above, look at ALL connections before replacing the heating element. Overtime, the tape wrapped around the wiring harnesses get weak and sags, causing the wiring to hit the drum and wear right through a wire.......or tear up a an entire wiring harness. The above has happened to both of my 806's.
redcarpetdrew
Well-known member
I've also seen the control switch not make proper contact. Another common thing is to see the wire between the element terminal and the high limit on the case burn thru. No matter what you do, if you end up pulling the cabinette to get to the element, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FRONT FELT SEAL AND HIGH TEMP ADHESIVE READY! The front seal (P/N 311534 I think) is what keeps all sorts of stuff like coins, jewelry, pencils and other things from falling inbetween the drum front and the cabinette and shorting the element. (Side question: What's the wierdest thing you've ever found inside a dryer?) Every one I've worked on has had the seal burned off or missing. Clean the lip around the drum opening and glue the new one on.
RCD
RCD
pturo
New member
A Kennedy Half Dollar, worth some bucks today but I have a gas model, it is kind of bronze.
About $15.00 in change, from a Whirlpool with bad seals....
