Detergent Allergies

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The goats milk

Is most lilky been used, as either all, or part of water phase of the soap formula.
This can allow the soap to have a nice "silky" feel (maybe what your feeling) more importantly, is the fats uses in the formula, and in what percentages.
Another important aspect, is the remainung fats, deliberately left behind, in order to make it conditioning to skin, and also maybe what your feeling. If its a natural soap, it's very likly that its own glycerine remains intact, another plus for dry sensitives.

Sounds like your on your way to happy skin!
 
Sounds like your on your way to happy skin!

After 60 years, finally!

I think the only ingredients in this soap is Fresh Goat's Milk, Olive, Canola, Castor and Almond Oils, Lard, Honey, Cinnamon, Oatmeal, Almonds,Vanilla Essential Oil, Almond Fragrance Oil, Nutmeg,Cinnamon Essential Oil.

Each bar is 4 oz in size, but since it's "french milled" I think it will last a long time.
 
Hope it works out for you. Allen

At least you know what needs to change if you run into a problem!

I can tell you that Cinnamon, and Cinnamon essential oil are not what I would pick for someone with sensitive skin, also many people have allergies to almonds ect, but if it works for you, then you know the old saying "if it ain't brook, don't" fix it" LOL
The almond oil fragrance' may be what's reminding you of a "1950s" bar of soap "Jergans" had a almond scent to it! Could that be it?

HTH
 
What about the softener?

I too have had the winter "itchies" for years, mostly in the areas under the elastic of my socks and underwear. Typically I've used liquid Tide but just switched to All F&C to see if it helps. A week on I think things have started to improve actually!

The follow up question is what about the fabric softener? Are reactions to say Downy as common as for detergents? I hesitate to use the softener but in the dry winter air it does help with static problems.
 
One of the first places that would bother me is on my wrists if I wear a long sleeve t-shirt that has elastic around the ends of the sleeves. And also like you where the elastic in socks contacts the skin. Usually an hour after putting the garment on the itching would start. With regular t-shirts it was my shoulders and lower back that would start up.

I wondered about the Cinnamon oil as Cinnamon is usually considered "hot". But no problems. I am expecting any day now a shipment of Goat's milk soap that has no added fragrances.

The more I research this it is more common that I thought. I am just ticked off that I spent a lot of money over the years for products which did not help.

As for the smell, you are right? My mother used Jergens soap and hand lotion! [this post was last edited: 1/25/2013-16:48]
 
Tar Soap

Have a stash of "Grandpa's" pine tar soap (about a case, it was a good fleaPay deal)and am here to tell you watch the stuff around your bath linens. In particular wash cloths as soap can leave black staining that may prove hard to shift totally.

Only use the pine tar soap with older wash cloths so not as bothered if staining doesn't come out in the wash. Same with vintage Lifebuoy soap as sometimes the carbolic can leave red markings as well.
 
Laundress to the rescue!

Whew, thanks for letting me know this! I haven't used the Pine Tar soap yet, it's next in line after this honey/almond goat's milk soap is used up.

Anyway I do use a wash cloth when showering and most all of our washcloths and towels for our master bath are of the bright white fluffy terry type! Karen would have had a fit if I had stained any of those.

We do have a few older sets that are navy blue and dark gray. Those are the ones I will use with Grandpa's Pine Soap. Thanks!
 
Thick and Thirsty

Is how we roll around here as well. In fact just laid in a new supply of white washcloths and towels (Chortex England) and have made sure they are only used when bathing with "white" soaps such as Savon de M or the vintage Castile in my stash. NO Lifebuoy or Grandpa's!

Any staining probably could be removed in the Miele using very hot water temps and or an extra dose of oxygen bleach but find both tend to degrade good thich terry after awhile if done too often.
 
Phil

I wouldn't chance skin getting better now by adding fabric softener, think it to soon to take a risk.

While I have not tried this... I have heard that rolling up a couple of balls of aluminum foil tightly, and throwing them in the dryer,with the clothes, is suposesed to illuminate the static. ??

Let us know.
 
Has anyone tried a laundry detergent called "Charlie's Soap" Laundry Powder. It is actually laundry detergent, but its called Charlies Soap.-- A long story that is on their website. It has no optical brightners, perfumes, dyes at all. It's not cheap, but you use one Tablespoon per load-- in an HE machine or regular toploader. It has great reviews on Amazon. It's available at places like Fresh Market, Earth Fare and Whole Foods stores. I'll let you know how it works for me. Seems to clean well and has almost no suds and rinses well.
 
I'll say that Charlie's soap has a big following. But then after a few uses some people stop using it for various reasons like dingy whites of a filmy coating on darks. Some people have added Borax to the soap or STPP to prevent this. It seems you have to have a good quality water for Charlie's soap. But it still has a large bunch of followers, there must be a reason why.
 
"Charlie's Soap" Laundry Powder.

I used it very a few years and was pleased. After a year or two, the whites got dingy. Washing them in All F&C took care of that, probably because All F&C has OBAs.

I still keep it around and use it for dark colors and wools, because it has no OBAs, enzymes, or perfumes.

Do not overdose it. I started using more because of those dingy whites, and contact dermatitis ensued. And it did not make them whiter.
 
For anyone interested, we washed our sheets in Vaska and put them on the bed, no itching. The label on Vaska said it is made from plant based products so I guess it doesn't have the stuff that makes you itch.
But the sheets were much softer when we used All F&C. We don't use fabric softener because we are not sure if it contains anything that causes itches.
[this post was last edited: 1/28/2013-17:44]
 
In week 2 for my son who has the detergent algeries with the All f and c liquid. We want to try the powdered but all we can find is the regular no HE so with our FL's afraid of sudsing but so far so good with the liquid no itching or breakouts.
 
Some "green" fabric softeners MIGHT and I say MIGHT be OK. A bottle of Seventh Generation I bought in a recent week moment (plus good sale) claims to be hypoallergenic. I am not hugely sensitive, but I do have dry skin issues which have, I think, been hurt by some fabric softeners. As far as I could tell, the Seventh Generation caused no problems. But someone really sensitive might, for all I know, have issues.

The other brand that I once tried that seemed to cause me no problems was Ecover.

Most of the time, though, I skip fabric softener. It really doesn't do enough for me to be worth the cost or hassle.
 
The one real problem with fabric softener, regardless of who makes it, is that used as directed, it goes in during the final rinse, and will thus leave some residue of some sort behind. There is a lot to be said for having nothing but clean fabric behind.
 

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