Do-It-Yourself Laundry Detergent

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qsd-dan

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From Yahoo:

While having clean clothes is obviously both hygienic and neighborly, how they get that way may be more open to imagination and experimentation than you may have considered. And consider you should, because as it turns out, the companies supplying the soaps you use to make your attire springtime fresh may be doing little more than taking you to the cleaners.

According to soap super-seller Proctor and Gamble (their Tide label alone accounts more than 40% of all laundry detergent used in the U.S.) Americans are doing 1,100 loads of laundry every minute of every day. And it's certainly possible that, thanks to new concentrates, many of those loads feature too much detergent.

As you've probably noticed, the latest twist in detergent is to sell us less product at a higher price with "ultra-new-and-improved" concentrates. "Use less soap, save the planet" is the basic idea. But smaller quantities mean more precise measuring is needed: fail to pay attention and you'll pour too much, which doesn't help the earth or your budget ... but does benefit Proctor and other purveyors of these products.

To read more about the conflict over exactly what kind of green concentrated laundry detergents are really designed to produce, check out this article from the Wall Street Journal.

Then consider this dirty little secret the suds salesmen don't want you to know: Some people get by with no detergent at all. Many others save 90% of the cost of store-bought by making it themselves.

Is Detergent Even Necessary?

I recently did a TV news story showing people how to make their own laundry detergent for a fraction of the cost of store bought. (It's right here on Yahoo!: check it out.)

As I said in my story, while it may sound impossible, laundry detergent may not even be necessary at all. The blog Funny about Money decided to forgo it completely as part of an experiment. Here's a quote:

"By and large, all of the freshly washed clothing came out with an odor: It smelled of clean water!"

You might be surprised to learn that, while clothing has been around since the fig leaf, laundry detergent is relatively new. And yet, ancient people were presumably able to make their clothing at least somewhat clean. How?

As it turns out, something that may be even more effective than soap is agitation. Ancient people used rocks and rivers, but your modern washing machine can clean lightly soiled clothes by just pushing them around in water.

In other words, people actually do get away without using detergent at all. But if the idea of using nothing more than water to wash your gym socks sounds a little scuzzy, not to worry. You can still wring significant savings from your laundry money by making your own detergent. It's not hard.

The Recipe

A quick search online will show you that there's no shortage of homemade laundry soap recipes: Here's one from The Simple Dollar. And we've got 10 more at Money Talks News. But below is one that seems to work pretty well. You'll need:

• 4 cups of water.
• 1/3 bar of cheap soap, grated.
• 1/2 cup washing soda (not baking soda).
• 1/2 cup of Borax (20 Mule Team).
• 5-gallon bucket for mixing.
• 3 gallons of water.

First, mix the grated soap in a saucepan with 4 cups of water, and heat on low until the soap is completely dissolved. Add hot water/soap mixture to 3 gallons of water in the 5-gallon bucket, stir in the washing soda and Borax, and continue stirring until thickened. Let the mix sit for 24 hours, and voila! Homemade laundry detergent.

Of course, who'd post a recipe without trying it out first? I made and washed several loads of clothes with the homemade detergent. And I, like many before me who've traveled this road, couldn't tell the difference between store-bought and homemade.

Total cost per load? In the neighborhood of 2 cents. Store-bought detergent, depending on what you buy and where you buy it, can cost about 20 cents per load -- 10 times more.

So, there are at least two alternatives to the agitation of paying too much for laundry detergent: Ditch it altogether and use nothing more than water in your washer, or save to 90% by making your own laundry detergent.

And here's a final idea for those who, like me, are unlikely to choose either of those options. Since doing this story, I haven't started making my own laundry detergent. I still use the same store-bought concentrate I started with. But I've started using half the amount. Result? No difference at all that I can detect. Now we're really talking green.

Maybe it's time we all laundered a little money!

 
it works with very soft water but ....

.... stay away from it in case you have hard water.
Soap will react with calcium and magnesium salts and they will become an undissoluble compound : laundry starts getting stiffer, whites starts graying, some mineral builup will grow in the washer tub
 
Do it Yourself

My mom said that when I was a baby, she used to make her own laundry soap and bath soap. I have to ask how she did it.
Mike
 
soap

True "soap" is very easy to make. There are only two basic ingredients- animal fat and lye. You can get the recipe from the internet or library. I've made it before to use at historical demenstrations. The big differents I see is that the soap does not bubble but the water gets very slippery and milky. After 2000 kids have play with soap and a washboard all day the water looks like milk. I also have to add most of the old timer ask to buy the lye soap and remember their mother or grandmother making soap. jeb
 
I've had reasonably good results with the following mix:

2 oz Finely grated soap (Ivory works very well).

1 oz STPP with 10% sodium metasilicate

The STPP does wonders to prevent soap scum buildup (it latches onto the hard water minerals better than soap does) and the results are generally quite soft and clean. The sodium metasilicate is there to protect washer parts. It's possible one doesn't need it, as STPP also protects washer parts.

I eschew washing soda. It's a relatively poor water softener and forms part of the soap scum problem. Borax is somewhat better than washing soda in that respect, but I generally only use it if there is a lingering odor problem with the laundry.
 
I need to try this for the heck of it, but yeah, how much per load, this would be good for people with allergies to detergent, at least you know whats in it!, Clear and Free detergents are not exactly that, they add fragrance and colorants to offset the chemical odor and color....

but the best part of this is what we have always known, no matter what comes out on the market as new or improved, its best to stay with the basics...
 
".... stay away from it in case you have hard water."

I can't say for sure, but I wonder if this recipe wouldn't work just fine in hard water. It calls for cheap soap, and it appears that the person who originally posted this recipe on Simple Dollar uses cheap bar soap. It seems to me that cheap bar soap these days is more likely to be a detergent type product.

The Simple Dollar article (link is in the Yahoo article) is worth reading--it has more detail and photos. Here's a link:

 
I tried the recipe in November...didn't like the results...soap chips took a long time to dissolve...not very good at removing stains.
 
Homemade Laundry "Detergent" Formulas

Have been making the rounds on the Internet for ages, and even longer in various other forms of media. Virtually all involve taking grated or flaked soap, then adding washing soda and or borax to make a powder.

In France a popular formula is to simply make laundry liquid from dissolving soap flakes or powder in water and allowing it to stand until it forms a gel or thick liquid (ratio of soap to water will control thickness). Have had such a formula for ages (taken from a very old French laundry manual), and use it with either P&G "White" laundry soap or Savon de Marseille.

None of this is new, housewives, laundry workers, maids, and anyone else who had to do the washing have been preparing various formulas of either powdered or liquid "soap" for ages. Different soaps and other additives were used depending upon local water conditions, type of textile to be laundered, soil level and so forth.

The French liquid soap mixture is very popular in France as are soap flakes, each used in machine washing, which really boggles one's mind due to the froth being created in a front loader, but there you are.

I only use my liquid soap mixture for laundering linens or items not heavily fouled by stains or gross soiling. Even then I use a certain amount of modern laundry detergent (have so many now cannot list them all...), to overcome problems with using pure soap for washing. Modern surfactants, enzymes and such simply produce a better washing result than pure soap, that is the reason detergents totally pushed aside the later in the first place.

What has always concerned me is the number of persons grating up soap, especially vintage or new Fel's Naptha, without proper precautions. Soap dust is NOT something one should be breathing in on a regular basis. Fel's contains naptha or stoddard solvent (pretty much the same thing), and is not something one wants airborne wafting around the house where it could not only be breathed in, but create a dust that could be ingested.

Many women who went the "homemade detergent" route complain their laundry after awhile has become dull, dingy, and has a whiff about it. Well that is because of soap residue and dirt still trapped in textile fibers. Pure soap never truly rinses clean of textiles, hence the "built in fabric softener" many soap based laundry products advertised, or how laundry was left softer than washed with detergents. Sooner or later that build-up causes all sorts of problems, and items need to be "stripped" of the residue.

Soap also will set certain stains, making them difficult or impossible to remove. This means just as our grandmothers and great-grandmothers, laundry has to be inspected for stains, and any found dealth with before they go to the wash.

Speaking of soap, really should bare down my stash, have too many cases, enough for the duration! *LOL*
 
Natural Soap

As always, Launderess is absolutely correct.

I make my own soap from lye, fat, and water....fancy or no, depending on what I'm using it for. I own a handcrafted soaping forum, and we do lots of fancy tricks with colors, herbs, fragrance etc.

I tried my hand at laundry soap for a while, and most of the Internet recipes simply do not have enough soap or builders to do an adequate job. I can make an effective laundry soap from scratch with borax as a builder, but it still isn't in the same ballpark as a good laundry detergent. Beats the pants off of the cheapies but doesn't compare to good ol' Sears. It's also not as cheap as the Sears, so why bother?

Honestly, the best use I have found for natural soap is stain sticks. I make the soap and add mineral spirits or kerosene to cut grease, and cut it into butter sized sticks. It's VERY effective on oily spots. However, natural soap tends to set tannin based stains, so avoid the Fels Naptha there.
 
I actually asked someone who makes her own soap a month or two ago whether she ever uses it for laundry. Her answer was an emphatic NO! Some reasons cited: the quantities needed would mean she'd be having to make a lot more soap. (She's already making as much as she feels she can make.) The difficulty grating her soap so it can be used was another reason. I suspect her water may be too hard for soap, too, since (as far as I know) soft water doesn't exist in this general area.
 
You can make it without shredding....

...by combining the oils and the lye and the water and builders in a large bucket, and let the chemistry happen there, stirring it a couple of times a day for a few days. It will set up to a paste and it's easy enough.

The problem I noticed was that the amounts recommended are too low for effective cleaning. I found I needed 1 to 1 1/2 cups of this mix to come close to commercial products in soft water. With my supplies costs, it worked out to about 14 to 21 cents per load AND I needed an acidic rinse to remove the last of the scum. I can get the Sears for 7 - 8 cents per load. It wasn't cost effective for me.
 

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