Dryer Repair Advice Needed

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retropia

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Our circa 2000 Kenmore/Frigidaire/Electrolux dryer, model #417.80042990, stopped working today. Yesterday it worked fine, today not at all.

It makes a buzzing noise like it is trying to start rotating when I turn the Start switch, but no tub action. When I try to spin the tub manually, it is very stiff and difficult to move. (Maybe that's normal; I don't know.)

I'm short on time as I'm going out of town mid-week. If it is something I can repair in about an hour, then I'm tempted to try. If it will likely take longer, then I'll call a repair person out.

Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!
 
BROKEN DRYER

The motor is having problems and most likely the motor will need to be replaced. Some times you can start a dryer manually by holding the door switch in and turning the drum by hand while turning the start switch you might need a helper, if this works you need a new motor. We seem to see this problem a lot on frigidare dryers, they are nothing like WP dryers. I think one WP dryer will easily outlast two Frigidare dryers.
 
Thanks, John. I was able to get that trick to work by myself. I have long fingers, so I was able to hold the door switch in and the start switch with one hand, then turn the drum with the other, and it did start to spin. It appears the motor is the culprit.

Online, the motor is priced from $115 to $150. With labor, I'm guessing a total bill of around $235 to $250 if I hire out the job. Or, if I had time, I could probably locate a low-mileage Whirlpool dryer off Craigslist for around $50.

This is why we need a vintage washer and dryer set, as backup for situations like this. This experience may be useful in selling the hubster on the concept.
 
I called a service technician out today; he also thinks the motor is starting to go. After I was able to get it started manually last night, it hasn't had any further problems, naturally. However, it's likely only a matter of time before it starts acting up again.

The tech said sometimes the motor will stop on a "dead spot," and can't start again until it is manually rotated past the spot. That probably happened with ours.

He quoted $257 plus tax to install a new motor, so I was close in my guess. I was ready to authorize the repair. The tech pointed out, though, that at 10 years old, Frigidaire dryers often have other problems. I appreciated him explaining this to me.

He said likely items that fail at this age are: the heating coil which costs around $175 to replace, the rear drum bearing at $150, and the high-limit safety switch (I think that's what he called it). He didn't mention a price on that, but I'm guessing it would be at least $100. These fixes add up to the price of a new dryer.

I know we're living on borrowed time on the washer bearings at 10 years, so now I'm wondering if it makes sense to consider replacing both the washer AND dryer.

With what?
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but

Why be so quick to condemn the motor when it could be something much less expensive as the motor start capacitor? The motor needs the capacitor to give it a boost when starting in order to turn in the right direction.
Also, when does an AC motor like that in a washer or dryer really ever stop on a dead spot? These are not brush type motors which could conceivably have a dead spot on the commutator. All the more so, it is sad to hear something like this coming from a service tech!
The reason why you can get it to run moving it past his "dead spot" is because you have inadvertently told the motor which way to turn and you became the starting capacitor.

If you can remove the capacitor from the motor oe see the specs on it, you can probably pick one up at WW Graingers or any local motor shop or appliance repair shop.

A cheap fix could be in the works if that is all it is. A few bucks may be well spent here rather than alot of bucks spent on a motor which should, by the way, include a new capacitor!
 
So a reason why it wasn't working before and now is working after my manual push might be that the motor start capacitor is going bad, but isn't completely bad yet? I'm guessing if it was completely bad then it wouldn't be starting on its own at the moment? Do capacitors have intermittent problems like that?

I'm not opposed to replacing a capacitor, although hubby will complain if the dryer is lying in pieces on the floor, non-functioning, for more than a day or two.

Any idea where I might find a repair manual? I didn't see one listed at Sears Parts Direct. I always prefer having a manual, just in case I run into a problem.
 
Start with...

The parts manual which will show the parts locations and how they should be assembled or attached to a specific component.
That should be enough to get you started. Maybe you can even buy the cap from Sears.
 
DRYER MOTORS

There is no start capacitor on dryer motors [ yes Nogre did it once in the late 1960s- early 1970s to over come other design problems]. The centrifugal switch can have dead spots. Why do people 2nd guess others that have repaired thousands of dryers when they don't even know what type of motor is in the dryer we ars talking about. Two full time repair people have come to the same conclusion and Doug has confirmed it but starting the dryer by hand.
 
Well I guess I stand Corrected!

Sorry for the mis-information. But I do have to wonder where exactly would a centrifugal switch have a dead spot? Isn't the centrifugal portion of the switch usually a rotating actuator which keeps a set of contacts closed on the stationary portion of the start switch,until the motor speed is such that the spinning, centrifugal motion causes the spinning actuating device to pull itself away from the spring loaded contacts of the stationary switch thus opening up the contacts on the start windings?
In either case, it would appear that the motor is beginning to fail and replacement would be one of the major options to consider.

Once again. I apologize if I misled anyone.
 
We're thinking it isn't worth putting much effort or money into the 10-year-old Kenmore/Frigidaire set, as apparently there are many parts that are nearing the end of their useful life.

A new Speed Queen dryer I looked at online has extended tumble, which I like, and is around $600, which seems reasonable.

The SQ front-loader washing machine looks sturdy, but is a bit pricey at $1,600.

Isn't Whirlpool coming out with a new front-loader washer? I wonder if it will be reliable.
 
Dryers.

My favorite current-production dryers are the WP made 29" dryers. They are sold under many many brands but are easily identifiable by their lint filter access on top of the machine in the back right corner. They are available with extended tumble (since about 1968). Are any of them still made with moisture sensor strips?

They are cost-competitive, reliable, and dead simple to work on.

That would be my pick,
Dave
 
DRYER MOTORS

The centrifugal switch actuator is a plastic ring on the centrifugal weight assembly mounted on the motor shaft inside next to the rotor. When the motor is at rest the plastic ring is pushing against a lever from the centrifugal switch, it seems that there is a little bit of wobble in the ring and weight assembly and coupled with a little wear it doesn't always push the switch lever hard enough to close the contact in the switch for the start windings, so the motor won't start on its own. I had one friend whose Frigidare dryer did this 7 years ago and we hand started it and its never done it again, you just never know but most times its better to replace the motor. We do sell new SQs if any club members want to make a road trip and pick up a new SQ washer or dryer [ and see all the cool stuff ] we can give you a good price. FL washers are aprox 1200.00 dryers are 400.00-500.00 tl washers 450.oo all prices are aprox we must add MD sales tax of 6% if interested Email me with model # and I can get you an exact quote and availability.
 
I agree with you about the WP filter on top dryers. We have had ours for 17 years and not one thing has gone wrong with it. It just keeps going and going and going.

It's also very easy on clothing. It doesn't bake them. The automatic dry cycle works just about perfectly every time.
 
Filter on top dryers.

At the Campbell Center for Historic Preservation Studies (my likely future employer), they run a 1969 Kenmore 700 dryer in HARD service. It dries all the linens washed for the 1st floor of a dormitory every day. I installed a new belt, idler pulley, and drum rollers when I was last there and it's running just fine.

A good design with a proven track record,
Dave
 

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