E2L Restoration

[joeslawn]

I have purchased an E2L Maytag Wringer Washer. In the process of restoration. It is in pretty good condition other than rust on the top and bottom of the outer skirt and above the casters. So far I've disassembled and regreased the wringer rollers and the automatic stop.

Will be looking for information regarding oiling the gearboxes and transmission. Haven't found much out there yet.

Thanks!

 

[abcomatic]

Joe, ask Brad Ross, he will be able to help you out. Gary

 

[joeslawn]

I just got done reading the entire thread about the E2L restoration.

As far as I can tell, to summarize what I've learned:

Center plate seal can be bought on eBay and is absolutely necessary as the one I have is going to be 40-60 years old.

First step to doing anything on this washing machine is removing the tub- the gulmite bolts can be slotted and removed. They are in cast iron so could grind them off and tap if I can't remove them by slotting.

There are cork gaskets between the various components, specifically the lower drive and the wringer drive. I assume I can cut these out of cork gasket material. I haven't found anyone selling them yet.

Disassembly, cleaning and reoiling the lower units and the wringer drive isn't that hard and really should be done.

I haven't found much info on rebuilding or disassembling the wringer head yet.

This machine is filled with synthetic grease, 1/4 lb at the bottom of the wringer drive, slather on grease on the horizontal drive to wringer and I believe 12oz of oil in the bottom gearbox

There is a screw that goes directly into the gearbox that should be left out and plugged with rubber.

The bolt between the drive housing and the X bar has 1/4" of clearance.

When reassembling it's a good idea to leave the drive housing loose until the tub bolts are put in so everything levels up correctly.

So far I have totally disassembled both halves of the wringer, greased everything and reassembled. The wringer works like a charm now.

Any comments on what I've posted and correct anything that I'm wrong on? Thanks!

 

[bradross]

Restoration resource ...

My expertise is on the older 1930s model 30. Although I own an E2L, mine is in almost mint condition, so I've not yet had any repairs to do.

Larry completely rebuilt an E2L - he's no doubt one of the best resources!

 

[tinkr]

Sorry no one has responded so a nubie will try to help

We had to restore my pink E2LP and this is what I learned.
And do anything you can to NOT have to remove the plate and gear box.
Yes some parts and be found on Ebay and some can't. Finding someone to let go of a good functioning gearbox is hard.

I am no expert.

But here goes.

Visually inspect hoses and tub. ( which I'm sure you have done)
Test the tub first make sure it doesn't leak. From hoses or tub.
Remove agitator and drain cover clean up the tub.
Check for any possible holes in the tub or deterioration of the top plate.
If everything looks good replace the drain filter and agitator, fill the tub with some really HOT water. Let it sit for awhile.
This will soften the gasket sealing the tub and cener plate also the seal for the center spline.
It will also soften the grease in the gear box.
Keep eye out for leaks.
If it doesn't leak start it up.

Adding grease to gear box cannot be done with out tearing it appart.
And sloting the gulmite bolts can be a problem. We did that and the bolts sheared off in the gear box
. And they just distorted as we tried to get them out..

(I had to purchase a gear box and center plate after a complete inspection}

There is a weep hole on top of the horizontal housing for the wringer. That is not the hole to be plugged. It is a breather hole for the shaft and gear box.

If you have a hole in the vertical shaft which is for the saftey pedal, that hole would need to have a screw or bolt inserted to use the wringer.
The saftey pedal was added I think in the late 60's or early 70's to address the problem of accidents
with unattended running wringers.

I have a white E2LP that is a 1964 no real problems with it. It is a weekly driver used as purchased. Used off CL.

POINT is IF IT AINT BROKE DON"T FIX IT!

The thread for our adventure is
Need some help with restoring a Pink 1960's E2LP

Some really scarey pictures and failed fixes in that thread.

 

[joeslawn]

Thank you! I hadn't found that thread yet.

Today I actually got my tub off.

Of the bolts that hold the tub down, I was able to get 3 out of 5 out with a vise grip. 1/5 came out with a slot and a screwdriver. The 5th one came out with a bolt extractor very easily.

Then, the 2 bolts that hold the plate to the gearbox came out very easily, a 5/32" drill bit and a bolt extractor.

Mine were made out of brass and screwed into cast iron so that probably made things easier.

I am going to see if I can either get stainless steel or brass hex head bolts to replace all of the bolts with.

I took about 10 minutes to sand down a few spots but the point wasn't to restore it today, I just wanted to get it apart enough to start repainting it and that required removing the tub.

Good idea about putting hot water in it to loosen up everything and make sure nothing leaks.

I still haven't figured out how to split the plate and the bottom gearbox nor how to determine if that bottom gearbox has enough lubricant in it. That is my primary concern right now as there HAS been a stream of oil out of the vent and I have not been able to determine where that is coming from and why.

I also plan to buy a center shaft bushing off eBay and replace it.

Maybe mine is in better shape than other ones out there, I'm not having any trouble fixing it/getting it back into shape.

I do want to get it in perfect condition and keep it that way.

I will need to get new rubber gaskets for the bolts as at least 1 of mine is crap now after cutting the bolt off. Might just make one from an inner tube.
Thanks for the continued replies to this thread.

 

[tinkr]

Bolts

The 2 bolts that go into the gear box are a different length make note of that. you can replace with standard hex-head stainless 5/16-18 bolts and washers
It is heavy gear grease in the box. If it is a watery brown goo comming out. Water has enterd the gear box mixing with the grease.
The shaft water seal is would be bad in that case. Larry describes this quite well in this trials to get his running.
To seperate the plate from gear box.. Take the two bolts out and there is a screw in the plate also remove that and they should come apart I just read that in the manual.
I have the Maytag service manual that was sent to me by stan. He was a great supporter in our efforts.
I can try to email them to you, if I can figure out how

 

[joeslawn]

Tinkr

Thank you for your reply. I have gotten my tub out, all of those *damn* gilley bolts are out, and now I'm planning on ordering some new bronze bolts from mcmaster carr that will fit. The ones that are already there are 5/8" long and 1 1/4" long. If you check out where they come out, most of them do NOT matter on the length. They simply stick out the bottom if they're too long. Of course they should be replaced with the correct lengths.

I am also finding out that if I were to replace my bolts with stainless steel I would have to confirm the grade and material of stainless steel to make sure that the bolts corrode before the cast iron does. Check out the scale of nobility here: http://www.smex.net.au/reference/Corrosion02_NobilityScale.php

I think it's well worth spending the $12.85 on a pack of 10 bronze 5/16 by 18 bolts from McMaster-Carr to put it back together with. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cap-screws/=144h57v

If anyone reads this and knows what the material was in the hex head bolts in 1982-1983 I would be interested.

I want the washing machine that I restore to last as long as possible!

Thanks

 

[e2l-arry]

Stainless Steel

is what mine appear to be. I bought a set from Phil in Ovid N.Y. But I suppose it doesn't matter as long as it's a metal that doesn't rust. I like you idea of getting the right size bolts from McMaster-Carr. Then you just need a stainless steel wsher and the rubber gasket. The inner tube idea sounds great! I bet that will save you some money!