Electronic Sensor dryers: then and now

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"There are no 230V 240V or 220V appliance motors in the

Well domestic versions no, but IIRC most if not all commercial appliances have 220v (or whatever) motors. Wascomat and some other brands do have 110v motors in a narrow "homestyle" range of products but those are intended for semi-commercial use such as in a beauty salon or say a small nursing home that does not have heavy usage requirements.

Seem to recall somewhere that 220v/240v powered motors are more robust than their 110v/120v cousins.
 
Voltages

As the country was being quickly wired in the early 1900's, a trade association of electricity producers and distibutors decided on their goal: Absolute max of 125/250V if you lived right next door to an electric plant, and an absolute minimum of 110/230 if you were way out of town, on a farm or something at the very farthest limits of the distribution network. This was further written in stone in the 30's with the TVA and REA. In my home, it fluctuates from 116.6 to 117.8 at different times I've been doing a wiring project.
 
Thanks!

Wow, I definitely am feeling OLD now! (: Thanks for all of the explanations, it is appreciated. Now, I just have to re-program my brain. I now wonder if, in fact, my apartment's new 230V Frigidaire air conditioner's motor runs on 230V itself? If anything in that unit runs on 120V, I would like to know for myself. CircleW, I was in Fairfield in 2007-my cousins live in Mason.
 
Post# 556916, Reply# 8 11/15/2011 at 22:00 by Pulsator

Hey Jamie! I am not a big fan either of the old-fashion design Whirlpool-made dryers. First of all, they are 2" wider than most modern machines, second and most importantly, is that I believe they blow the air into the drum, but from the back, then send the the moisture out from the back! I don't know if there are two motors for that! LOL I just don't like the "hamper-door" either, it makes loading and unloading a chore. I literally have to get on my knees and retrieve stuff from the back of the drum. The little latch-pin on the top of the drum opening always seems to snag wash as I either toss or dump the load in. I have a 1989 27" top-line Lady Kenmore natural gas beige dryer with electronic sensor and "Soft Heat". It is the BEST & quietest dryer we've ever had to date, and has NEVER require one repair! It runs so well, I sure hope it continues to run for a long time, as I have no money to buy a new one.
 
 
Whirlpool "classic" 29" dryers do not blow air into the drum.  Air is pulled in through the heating element or burner, through the drum, through the filter housing, then blown out the exhaust.  There's one motor which drives both the drum and blower.
 
That is my favorite design, the lint filter on top, makes the inside so much more simpler and convenient.

Ya know what would have been cool, if they designed louvers on the front panel below the door to get better air flow for the heating coils or the burner. Now knowing me, since I brought it up, it probably already exists through a modification. haha.
 
Greg is correct about the fuse situation,  usually encountered in older homes that senior adults have lived in since the end of WWII.  Lots of  electric stoves, dryers (many hard wired) and water heaters. Most heated homes with fuel oil (sometimes coal) until the city completed their natural gas lines. 
 

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