10A rating
You have to keep the difference between momentary and continuous load in mind.
A heater is usually a continuous load. From the point you turn it on through the entire run time it basicly always pulls the same power.
Resistive loads in general have that behaviour.
Motors as in washers, dryers or compressors have inductive and capacitive properties.
Thus, they have an inrush and a running current.
For example, a motor in stalled position (all magnetic field lines aling) doesn't have capacitive properties anymore. Thus the windings basicly act as a low ohm resistor and the motor draws the maximum current.
Once a motor turns itself and the system it is attached to has inertia.
It only spends a verry short time in each position, the magnetic fields are always moving through each other, so it is more of an inductive and capacitive system.
Basic law of induction: conductors and magnetic fields that move in relation to each other always induce currents in each other.
Basicly, the motor draws less power because it induces a current against the supply current in it self.
If there is no load in the machine, the drum and motor get into running state faster then when empty. Thus, that inrush current draw to start the magnetic fields and movement is verry short.
Once the machine is loaded, these inrush currents take longer to subside.
Some machines use capacitors to reduce that startup draw, but it will still be there.
That initial inrush current does not have to be labeled on home appliances as it usually is drawn for an insignificant amount of time.
The longest startup draw that comes to my mind is the early Frigidaire washers with one timer increment in start winding during spin up, but even there the current drops quickly.
House wiring has enough head room to handle those short spikes and fuses are designed to allow for them.
Fuses don't trip immediately.
You often see it here in Germany that if the ground fault interuptor trips, the relating fuses don't as it has to trigger far sooner then a fuse, even though a ground fault often means significant current draw.
A fuse only checks for to high current draw to protect against fires in overload situations.
And if you run wiring even at double its rated capacity, it often will survive without a care for several seconds.
Your converter basicly does 2 things which are entirely separate.
First it uses an step-up transformer. Transformers aren't all that expensive and hard to build and generally are verry rugged items as they are solid state.
They need an AC supply and change only the voltage, not the frequency.
Next, they turn that AC into DC.
You need a full bridge rectifier for that. That uses just 4 diodes, and those are solid state to.
The thing makeing higher current draw problematic is turning that DC back into AC.
You basicly play a fun switching game.
You dump all the DC into capacitors.
Then you switch the DC supply on and off verry fast, basicly pulse width modulating it. You slowly increase the on time, then slowly decrease it again, then switch polarity.
Every time a switch switches - be it a transistor or a physical relay - there is some energy lost in heat, proportional to the current being drawn.
Thus, the switching components heat up immensely.
They have to be cooled thus.
Up to about 250W, that is no issue, but from there on, it gets problematic and expensive.
Thus, the converter basicly has a smart fuse in it allowing current flows over the rating up to a certain degree for a verry short time.
If the overload goes on for more then a few seconds or a certain wattage is reached, it immediately cuts the power so no damage can occur.
Your machine accidentally is just below that when empty and just above that when loaded.
The worst culprits in these situations are compressors and heat pumps.
They don't even use that much energy when running,but on start up the load on the motor in them is rather big as the pressure difference between low and high pressure side is verry large.
Thus, for example, many manufacturers of inverters for solar equipment AND many fridges and even some heat pump dryers state that you can not use them with each other.
Solar panels produce DC and only DC, so you have to convert that into AC for use in the grid and your house. Same for battery storage.
While the inverter could run a fridge continuously with no issue, that verry short start up current spike is just to much for the inverter.
You have to keep the difference between momentary and continuous load in mind.
A heater is usually a continuous load. From the point you turn it on through the entire run time it basicly always pulls the same power.
Resistive loads in general have that behaviour.
Motors as in washers, dryers or compressors have inductive and capacitive properties.
Thus, they have an inrush and a running current.
For example, a motor in stalled position (all magnetic field lines aling) doesn't have capacitive properties anymore. Thus the windings basicly act as a low ohm resistor and the motor draws the maximum current.
Once a motor turns itself and the system it is attached to has inertia.
It only spends a verry short time in each position, the magnetic fields are always moving through each other, so it is more of an inductive and capacitive system.
Basic law of induction: conductors and magnetic fields that move in relation to each other always induce currents in each other.
Basicly, the motor draws less power because it induces a current against the supply current in it self.
If there is no load in the machine, the drum and motor get into running state faster then when empty. Thus, that inrush current draw to start the magnetic fields and movement is verry short.
Once the machine is loaded, these inrush currents take longer to subside.
Some machines use capacitors to reduce that startup draw, but it will still be there.
That initial inrush current does not have to be labeled on home appliances as it usually is drawn for an insignificant amount of time.
The longest startup draw that comes to my mind is the early Frigidaire washers with one timer increment in start winding during spin up, but even there the current drops quickly.
House wiring has enough head room to handle those short spikes and fuses are designed to allow for them.
Fuses don't trip immediately.
You often see it here in Germany that if the ground fault interuptor trips, the relating fuses don't as it has to trigger far sooner then a fuse, even though a ground fault often means significant current draw.
A fuse only checks for to high current draw to protect against fires in overload situations.
And if you run wiring even at double its rated capacity, it often will survive without a care for several seconds.
Your converter basicly does 2 things which are entirely separate.
First it uses an step-up transformer. Transformers aren't all that expensive and hard to build and generally are verry rugged items as they are solid state.
They need an AC supply and change only the voltage, not the frequency.
Next, they turn that AC into DC.
You need a full bridge rectifier for that. That uses just 4 diodes, and those are solid state to.
The thing makeing higher current draw problematic is turning that DC back into AC.
You basicly play a fun switching game.
You dump all the DC into capacitors.
Then you switch the DC supply on and off verry fast, basicly pulse width modulating it. You slowly increase the on time, then slowly decrease it again, then switch polarity.
Every time a switch switches - be it a transistor or a physical relay - there is some energy lost in heat, proportional to the current being drawn.
Thus, the switching components heat up immensely.
They have to be cooled thus.
Up to about 250W, that is no issue, but from there on, it gets problematic and expensive.
Thus, the converter basicly has a smart fuse in it allowing current flows over the rating up to a certain degree for a verry short time.
If the overload goes on for more then a few seconds or a certain wattage is reached, it immediately cuts the power so no damage can occur.
Your machine accidentally is just below that when empty and just above that when loaded.
The worst culprits in these situations are compressors and heat pumps.
They don't even use that much energy when running,but on start up the load on the motor in them is rather big as the pressure difference between low and high pressure side is verry large.
Thus, for example, many manufacturers of inverters for solar equipment AND many fridges and even some heat pump dryers state that you can not use them with each other.
Solar panels produce DC and only DC, so you have to convert that into AC for use in the grid and your house. Same for battery storage.
While the inverter could run a fridge continuously with no issue, that verry short start up current spike is just to much for the inverter.
