Filter-flo transmission repair

[jons1077]

Ok, boys and girls, I’m diving into the ever-elusive FF tranny. I’m not aware of any instructions or manuals that exist for these anywhere within my existence. Having said that, I’m dying to learn how to repair and rebuild these since they’re so hard to find now.

The subject is a 1970 GE two-speed model. I’ve already rebuilt the clutch as it was partially seized and kept knocking the shifter out of whack. The main issue now is the vast indexing the tub does as it has virtually no brake.

I’ve removed and open up the bottom of the tranny. No leaks ever and the oil inside was not bad at all. However, there was a small pile of rubber material collected on the baseplate. I have NO idea where this would have come from but can only assume it has something to do with the brake. Beyond the lower bearing, I don’t even know how to take this thing apart.

Anyone who has any knowledge, literature and/or pictorials on this may have their way with me because I’m completely stumped and really want to figure this out. In the meantime, I’ll keep checking for replacement trannys.

Thanks again! I added some pics.

 

[jons1077]

So there’s more...

Knowing why the GE makes two loud “pops” when the spin stops is like knowing the meaning of life! Lol

Thanks to a couple of simple questions from Robert, it suddenly occurred to me where the actual brake is and it was right under my nose. Inside the baseplate under a rim is a large spring coil with a hook. Between this cool and the baseplate is a brake pad strip. I have an intact brake to compare to the bad one.

As you can see, the bad brake has virtually nothing left to grab onto. It’s just metal on metal. So I could place the better one on the machine or see if there’s a way to find a new coil or have new material adhered to the old one.

So interesting!!!

 

[appnut]

Jon, has to be some luck for all this..  Thread #80,000!!! 

 

 

[swestoyz]

Well that sure looks like a good time, Jon!

Under the GE section on AE.org, Robert has a generic automatic washer service manual that does a great job of breaking down the transmissions for these, in case you need some guidance beyond what you've already uncovered, as well as parts breakdowns with PNs.

https://www.automatice.org/cgi-bin/index.cgi?showdoc~1474~General Electric~

Glad to hear you already have a spare brake on hand.

Ben

 

[jons1077]

Ben

Why didn’t I think to look there? Thanks for the link! Purchased it and surely will use it. Interesting seeing all the info on multi-speed and versatronic clutches too!

 

[jons1077]

Now for oil

I was able to get the brake coil replaced thanks to a large spring compressor. Yes, I was nervous. That thing pops loose and lord knows what’ll get hit. That is one heavy spring!

I know the discussion of oil had come up a while back I was at the automotive store earlier and wasn’t able to find a non-detergent 60W oil. I found what I think is about the closest but unsure between a 50W high-pressure/high-temp motorcycle oil or just plain gear oil.

Suggestions?

 

[Unimatic1140]

Hey Jon, I had to use Pure Guard ND30 oil in the 1958 GE transmission. It's getting much harder to find non-detergent oil. I'm worried how we are going to find non-detergent oil in the future now that California has banned it. I suspect other states may follow their lead.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/non-california-4604/chemicals---fluids-16461/oil-16865/motor-oil---conventional-25267/2673028dc6c2/pure-guard-non-california-1-quart-30w-conventional-motor-oil/nd30/4616028

 

[turquoisedude]

Yikes! One of the few things I can actually find in Canada! C'mon up and visit the Ogden Laundry sometime, Y'all!!

 

[jons1077]

Parts arrived and back to work

So I got new lower seal for the case, new cork seal for the pulley wheel and a new lower shaft seal. Washed down the outside components and installed the new outer casing seal. The original lower shaft seal still had a nice, snug fit and was pliable so I didn’t feel I should screw up a good thing.

By the way, the brake coil is a mother of a job. I had to get an automotive spring coil compressor to bend it down just enough to fit it inside the hub. You do NOT want that thing to slip out and knock you in the face. Kind of scary. Once seated I just tapped it in with a mallet and placed the shroud back which keeps it in place.

I went ahead and filled the transmission with the specified amount (2.75 quarts) of gear oil (90w). It looked and smelled just like what was in it before. Can’t be that harmful and, if it is, oh well.

I did some obligatory cleaning and rust proofing. The aluminum case collected years of residue under the boot so the Dremel did a nice job of removing most of it and getting it nice and smooth.

Transmission is back in place now. Giving the shaft a quick turn counterclockwise engages the brake so I think that issue is resolved. No oil leaking at all so far either.

Once the POR-15 has had a couple hours to dry, I’ll replace the boot, tub and agitator. Then it’ll be time to reinstall the motor-clutch assembly, thread the belt and then run some tests to make sure the clutch functions properly along with everything else.

 

[goatfarmer]

Great job!

 

[jons1077]

Machines is back

All components are now installed and initial spin test complete. We have a brake again! Also have two spin speeds! A little more time to allow POR-15 to fully dry and then will do water testing and agitation. Long live the filter-flo!

 

[repairguy]

Congratulations on keeping this great old machine in operation!

 

[jons1077]

There’s always something...

So everything is back together. Hooked it up. Water seal test is a go. Oil leak test is a go. Problem now...bad water level switch. Fills and doesn’t agitate. Ugh!!! I bypassed the switch and got very nice smooth agitation in low and high speeds. So now to find another standard capacity infinite water level switch. To be continued...

 

[swestoyz]

Jon - many of us feel your pain - you get through everything only to find something completely different died.

Great job though on the transmission rehab. Your post might be the first we've seen of someone tearing into a 61 and later GE trans and installing new seals! Enjoy that smooth and *somewhat* quiet agitation.

Ben

 

[jons1077]

Ben

You’re so kind. I know this is one of those “welcome to the club” sort of things where probably everyone here has had this happen. I feel like GEs, or at least the ones I’ve acquired over the years, have require such extensive work especially due to rust. The scary thing for me now is metal scrapping has been very effective at removing old machines in my area and vintage machines are virtually gone now. I haven’t seen a replacement transmission anywhere, EBay or otherwise, in at least a year so rehabbing these transmissions will be necessary for me to keep these machines going. Thank goodness the upper seals are good or I’d be screwed!

 

[mit634]

Jon - Fantastic work. I enjoyed reading this thread and your "journey of discovery". Regards, Tim

 

[jons1077]

Finally!

We’re back in business. 1969 model (manufactured 1970) GE Filter-flo with NO indexing and two speeds. Fully restored and sounds just like I remember! I’d post a video but I don’t know how on here so enjoy a couple of pictures.

 

[jons1077]

By the way...

If anyone happens to have a V16 straight-vane agitator they’re looking to part with I’d be happy to make an offer. The original one for this machine was badly mangled. I’ve got a V14 ramp in it for now.

 

[repairguy]

Hi Jon. There as a brand new in box Ge straight vane agitator on eBay at the moment. If you want to take a look search WH43X93. It should be the one for the large capacity machine according to my research.