Great work, Jon. It looks and sounds great. The straight vane was a very good Activator in the large capacity tub, hope you've found one.
Filter-flo transmission repair
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GE V-16 Washer
Hi Jon, this is the smaller standard capacity machine ? correct,
I probably have a spare V16 straight vane agitator if you want me to send one.
John L.
Hi Jon, this is the smaller standard capacity machine ? correct,
I probably have a spare V16 straight vane agitator if you want me to send one.
John L.
John
Yes, standard V-16 tub. The agitator for this particular machine was modified in an unfortunate way so doubt I’ll ever use it. If you’re willing to spare one then I’d appreciate it. Just let me know what I owe you for it.
Thanks!
Yes, standard V-16 tub. The agitator for this particular machine was modified in an unfortunate way so doubt I’ll ever use it. If you’re willing to spare one then I’d appreciate it. Just let me know what I owe you for it.
Thanks!
touchtronic
Member
Nice work Jon - a transmission rebuild is definitely intimidating, but not as bad as a car transmission - forget that LOL.
My Aunt and Uncle had a filter flow of some relation but I remember it had a lid that opened to the left.
Andrew
My Aunt and Uncle had a filter flow of some relation but I remember it had a lid that opened to the left.
Andrew
vacerator
Well-known member
I second that;
Having studied several automobile transmissions both manual and automatic.
A conventional manual shift not so much, but a dual clutch manumatic or the newer 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10 speed automatics for sure. None have more than 5 to 7 forward planetary gear sets, but more valve body passages, clutch packs, and electronics than a 4 or 5 speed.
Aside from those, there are mega amounts of belville and thrust washers, bearings, spacers, fluid check balls, actuator bands, solenoids, plungers, diaphrams, pin valves, rotational sensors, etc. Many early ones had a both front and rear pump, which allowed a vehicle to be push started.
Various torque converter stall speeds, or the r.p.m.s at which the fluid coupling slips the least. A few later ones do still allow the vehicle to be towed with 4 wheels on the ground for infinite miles in neuteral. The Chevy Cavalier was one such through the 2006 model year. Computers and electronics have replaced the early and simpler cabled, electric and or vacuum modulated detent and shifting points.
Still with all this technology, some still feel much to busy up and down shifting to smoothly power the vehicle in order to maximize fuel efficiency.
Having studied several automobile transmissions both manual and automatic.
A conventional manual shift not so much, but a dual clutch manumatic or the newer 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10 speed automatics for sure. None have more than 5 to 7 forward planetary gear sets, but more valve body passages, clutch packs, and electronics than a 4 or 5 speed.
Aside from those, there are mega amounts of belville and thrust washers, bearings, spacers, fluid check balls, actuator bands, solenoids, plungers, diaphrams, pin valves, rotational sensors, etc. Many early ones had a both front and rear pump, which allowed a vehicle to be push started.
Various torque converter stall speeds, or the r.p.m.s at which the fluid coupling slips the least. A few later ones do still allow the vehicle to be towed with 4 wheels on the ground for infinite miles in neuteral. The Chevy Cavalier was one such through the 2006 model year. Computers and electronics have replaced the early and simpler cabled, electric and or vacuum modulated detent and shifting points.
Still with all this technology, some still feel much to busy up and down shifting to smoothly power the vehicle in order to maximize fuel efficiency.
doug
Well-known member
Nice job
I’m just now seeing ur thread, great job on the restoration! Wish I knew how to repair the clutch’s an transmissions as u said they r getting harder to find! Maybe one day I’ll learn! I’ll keep an eye out for the agitator u need as well! I had a question though about the por 15 that u used to do the rust hole patching, what exactly is it called? I saw u had used a fiber glass cloth or something an put the putty on it? I also saw u used the preventing paint for the mild rust spots? Hope u can help, great job again! -Doug
I’m just now seeing ur thread, great job on the restoration! Wish I knew how to repair the clutch’s an transmissions as u said they r getting harder to find! Maybe one day I’ll learn! I’ll keep an eye out for the agitator u need as well! I had a question though about the por 15 that u used to do the rust hole patching, what exactly is it called? I saw u had used a fiber glass cloth or something an put the putty on it? I also saw u used the preventing paint for the mild rust spots? Hope u can help, great job again! -Doug
Doug
Thanks! I’ve repaired a couple of horribly rusted outer tubs on GEs with both POR-15 and Bondo. Bondo is a resin that is mixed with an activating solution and brushed onto fiberglass cloth. If you’ve ever been on a brand new fiberglass boat before, it has that same distinct smell. Once the resin hardens it is extremely durable and waterproof so it’s perfect for washers. You can sand it, shape, and cut holes in it. Even paint it.
POR-15 is the name of the rust-proofing paint you can use to stop rust in its tracks. Inside these machines are common rust-prone areas such as the out rim of the outer tub, areas prone to trauma from an out-of-balance inner tub and anywhere there are hose connections or standing water. Simply paint this stuff on and it’ll bond with the rust and seal it.
Both of these can be found at both hardware stores as well as automotive supply stores where automotive paint and body repair items are sold.
I have two machines that literally were saved because of both of these items!
Let me know when you’re ready to work on clutches and I’ll do my best to support you. They’re not that bad really.
Thanks! I’ve repaired a couple of horribly rusted outer tubs on GEs with both POR-15 and Bondo. Bondo is a resin that is mixed with an activating solution and brushed onto fiberglass cloth. If you’ve ever been on a brand new fiberglass boat before, it has that same distinct smell. Once the resin hardens it is extremely durable and waterproof so it’s perfect for washers. You can sand it, shape, and cut holes in it. Even paint it.
POR-15 is the name of the rust-proofing paint you can use to stop rust in its tracks. Inside these machines are common rust-prone areas such as the out rim of the outer tub, areas prone to trauma from an out-of-balance inner tub and anywhere there are hose connections or standing water. Simply paint this stuff on and it’ll bond with the rust and seal it.
Both of these can be found at both hardware stores as well as automotive supply stores where automotive paint and body repair items are sold.
I have two machines that literally were saved because of both of these items!
Let me know when you’re ready to work on clutches and I’ll do my best to support you. They’re not that bad really.
doug
Well-known member
Jon
Thanks a lot for all the knowledge and advice! I believe I may be able to do a rust repair/prevention now ! Again thanks a lot an I will keep u updated!
Thanks a lot for all the knowledge and advice! I believe I may be able to do a rust repair/prevention now ! Again thanks a lot an I will keep u updated!
stuftrock1
Well-known member
This is definitely a very informative thread. I just got my Filter Flo a couple days ago and it’ll probably need some work. But how many different Activator agitators were there? I thought the 3 vein ramped was the only one.
stuftrock1
Well-known member
And what does V-16 or V-## mean?
Agitators
I would say, like most creators of appliances back then, there were always interesting variations made to machines to keep them fresh and “improved.” Agitators were certainly no exception. This also plays a part in the “V” model designations of these machines. John L. Has a lot more knowledge on this subject but here’s what I understand.
“V” models were what designated a machines capacity of dry clothing it could handle safely without overloading the motor. Therefore a V-16 model was considered capable of washing up to 16 lbs of dry clothing. John was explaining that these capacities would increase (V-12, V-14, and V-16) based on the motor capacity (increasing the horsepower) rather than increasing actual tub capacity. 18 lb models had deeper tubs, however.
There were a a few main designs for agitators for both standard and tall tub models. Original standard machines had Bakelite ramps for the 12 and 14 lb models in the early and mid 1960’s. 16 lb models began featuring the triple straight-cane agitator in Bakelite and over the next few years (1967-1973ish) these straight vane standard tub agitators had a few variations to the fins. I think they were in turquoise and white.
Initial 18 lb tall tub models in about 1967 featured 4-vane straight vane agitators and I believe it was until the late 1970’s that tall tub machines began featuring ramp activators like their standard tub siblings. There were a couple of variations on the tall straight vane activators as well and, ultimately everything went back to ramps until the end of the filterflo line.
I would say, like most creators of appliances back then, there were always interesting variations made to machines to keep them fresh and “improved.” Agitators were certainly no exception. This also plays a part in the “V” model designations of these machines. John L. Has a lot more knowledge on this subject but here’s what I understand.
“V” models were what designated a machines capacity of dry clothing it could handle safely without overloading the motor. Therefore a V-16 model was considered capable of washing up to 16 lbs of dry clothing. John was explaining that these capacities would increase (V-12, V-14, and V-16) based on the motor capacity (increasing the horsepower) rather than increasing actual tub capacity. 18 lb models had deeper tubs, however.
There were a a few main designs for agitators for both standard and tall tub models. Original standard machines had Bakelite ramps for the 12 and 14 lb models in the early and mid 1960’s. 16 lb models began featuring the triple straight-cane agitator in Bakelite and over the next few years (1967-1973ish) these straight vane standard tub agitators had a few variations to the fins. I think they were in turquoise and white.
Initial 18 lb tall tub models in about 1967 featured 4-vane straight vane agitators and I believe it was until the late 1970’s that tall tub machines began featuring ramp activators like their standard tub siblings. There were a couple of variations on the tall straight vane activators as well and, ultimately everything went back to ramps until the end of the filterflo line.
Agitator photos
stuftrock1
Well-known member
Thanks for the info! Is there any way to tell what V-## mine is? I’m not home at the moment and I don’t know the model number.
Stuftrock1
Yours has the “extra large” water level setting so it’s the taller tub 18 lb machine and it will have the white ramp activator that is in photo #3 posted above. The softener dispenser I posted to you from eBay is correct for this machine and will fit.
Yours has the “extra large” water level setting so it’s the taller tub 18 lb machine and it will have the white ramp activator that is in photo #3 posted above. The softener dispenser I posted to you from eBay is correct for this machine and will fit.
stuftrock1
Well-known member
jons1077
The part you listed was part # WH47X43. From what I’ve read, this model is for the Rimflo, so it won’t fit on the filter pan. WH47X39 is what I need.
The part you listed was part # WH47X43. From what I’ve read, this model is for the Rimflo, so it won’t fit on the filter pan. WH47X39 is what I need.
Dispenser
The item in the picture is what you’re looking for. Perhaps they posted the wrong part number on the eBay ad. Hope you find what you need.
The item in the picture is what you’re looking for. Perhaps they posted the wrong part number on the eBay ad. Hope you find what you need.
48bencix
Well-known member
Mine never worked on slow speed
I had two GE Filter Flos one a 1961 and a 1991. Both ended up one speed units after the slow speed failed. Perhaps due to me changing the speed during operation. Some say that will do it. My question is how hard was it to make a two speed motor? Then no need for the complicated transmission. I always loved the Filter Flos for their ability to filter out so much stuff, especially dog hair!
I had two GE Filter Flos one a 1961 and a 1991. Both ended up one speed units after the slow speed failed. Perhaps due to me changing the speed during operation. Some say that will do it. My question is how hard was it to make a two speed motor? Then no need for the complicated transmission. I always loved the Filter Flos for their ability to filter out so much stuff, especially dog hair!
GE's reason for using the complicated clutch mechanism instead of a multi-speed motor is to maintain full-rate pump flow for filtering.
stuftrock1
Well-known member
That is actually very smart. It’s amazing and quite sad how much people these days completely take washers for granted, especially since they were designed by someone much smarter than all of us. And not to mention how impressive the engineering was that went into them. Maytag’s nylon ball hinges, so simple yet such a brilliant “why didn’t I think of that” idea. Maytag’s orbital transmission, a reliable, simple, and compact transmission design that was genius. The resulting agitation may only have a short 90 degree stroke, but it was fast and it got the job done. Whirlpool’s direct drive, honestly probably the best drivetrain systems that eliminated the problems from having a belt and was extremely easy to work on if something actually broke. And finally, the agitator itself. You don’t just put fins on a stick and call it a done deal. You use fluid dynamics and general physics to design an agitator that has strong rollover, good scrubbing ability on all water levels, creates strong water currents, is gentle on clothes, and is still capable of performing well when overloaded. Sure, a lot of this is also dependent of the stroke size and speed determined by the transmission and motor, but the best agitators take full advantage of whatever drivetrain they are paired with.
