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keny

Member
Joined
May 27, 2012
Messages
13
Location
Detroit, Michigan
I've made some progress with both the washer and dryer. However now I've got more concerns and questions about both machines.
As far as the dryer goes, I got the new drum glides in, the "limit switch" or thermostat on the top of the gas burner area in, and put it all back together.
I turned it on, and it seemed to heat fine; the flame cycled off and on. Though watching it internally, with the top off, I didn't know the flame travelled and blew all the way to the back of the machine. That looked a little scary, but I THINK that's the way it is supposed to work. Anyway, I let it operate with a first real cycle with damp clothing, but noticed a burning plastic, electrical burning, or chemical kind of smell after about 15 minutes. Something like a strong "magic marker" permanent ink odor. I can't tell where it's coming from, but when I get my nose around the timer area, it seems to be strong there. Perhaps that's only because it's the highest point on the machine. I let the dryer complete the cycle anyway. The clothes ended up properly dry, but reeking of the burned smell. Never any visible smoke I might add.
I did put a small bit of electrical tape over that old heat resistant cardboard cover from the old thermostat to hold it in place. And, I could probably remove that board altogether as John L. said, but I don't know if that's the source. It smells like more electrical or as described above. I hope it's not the new part melting and about to blow again for some reason. Also, the end of cycle buzzer might need a "limit switch" of its own. Near the end of a drying cycle it buzzes seemingly endlessly and annoyingly, until you move the timer forward manually, or go insane (whichever comes first). Is there any way to adjust this? Though I could live with the feature turned off.
Obviously, I am mainly concerned with the burning smell. Any recommendations or thoughts?

In regard to the washer, after struggling to turn and remove the tub bolts, I finally got them out. So now, I am about to install the new boot or tub seal. Wondering if I should put a bead of silicone around the sealing/band tightening area, or not bother. I'd like to get it right, and completely sealed the first time. Also, I purchased a new belt and just need to know if I have to remove the pump to put it on. I know it shouldn't be that difficult, but I just don't see how it could easily be done.
Please kindly advise.
Thank you.

Note to Greg: Obviously I didn't get the repair manual, and I probably should. I may yet.
 
Dryer....not sure about....just keep an eye on things, or others may chime in as to what may be the cause......maybe take a chance and remove that cardboard and see if that makes a difference....yeah, with that airflow being pulled in, that flame does hit the back wall, and seem like it is turning upwards, that has always seemed normal to me....

Washer...I do put a small bead of silicone around just to be safe and make sure everything seals snuggly....

for the belt, theres two ways....you have to remove one of the clamps for the pump, usually the pump side is easiest to reinstall, I do it laying down, JohnL does it standing up...what ever is easier for you...

second way is to remove the motor nuts, and plugs, drop the motor a little and fish the belt around/under and into place without removing the pump belt....then put the nuts and plugs back in place and tighten....

anything else, let us know how we can help
 
Dryer Flame

Flame doesn't sound right. It should be staying in the flame housing, where the metal is thicker and can handle the direct, concentrated heat from combustion.

It sounds like your dryer may be set up for Propane and your using Natural Gas, or vice versa. One is a higher pressure and the corresponding emitters are smaller.

Are you using propane or Natural Gas?

Any pictures? They are kind of a requirement here.

rustyspaatz++11-11-2013-17-11-57.jpg
 
another thing is what color the flame is.

It should be a nice blue, as seen in the picture above.

If there is yellow, orange and reds, this is another indication that you have a dangerous situation.

Flames getting sucked into the heat duct are burning too hot, and will cook your clothes, not to mention create a fire hazard. The extra heat can also melt the components in the dryer itself. That may be why you sensor went out.

You might also need to simply adjust the flow of gas, on the gas valve.

This is just One reason gas appliances scare me.

I WON'T allow ANY gas, or associated appliances, in my house. too DANGEROUS. Both physically and politically.



rustyspaatz++11-11-2013-19-02-16.jpg
 
GE gas dryer update

Thanks for responding Rusty. I thought my post was history.

Flame doesn't sound right. It should be staying in the flame housing, where the metal is thicker and can handle the direct, concentrated heat from combustion.

... It's hitting the back wall of the dryer, looking like it's traveling up. The rear porcelain interior of the drum does have brownish scorch marks or some kind of stain.

It sounds like your dryer may be set up for Propane and your using Natural Gas, or vice versa. One is a higher pressure and the corresponding emitters are smaller.

... Most people in my area use Natural Gas, and it is hooked up to my gas line. I've never heard of needing to partially close the gas valve for proper operation. Is there some other way to tell if the dryer is meant to be used with propane? The model number is DDG9280DBL if that is of any help.

Any pictures? They are kind of a requirement here.

...If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll try to post a photo of the flame. I believe it is blue for the most part.

Also, there is an update note on the dryer. I removed the heat resistant cardboard above the limit switch. When I did that however, pulling the cardboard off, the base of the switch stayed screwed in place, and the top half of the part separated, so I just snapped it back together. Hope that doesn't mean I damaged it.
Anyway, at that point I tried another load of wet clothes in the dryer. This time there was much less of any burning smell. However, there was still some. So maybe that was part of the reason.

One final question I alluded to before; does the "stuck" end-of-cycle signal mean the timer needs replacement? It buzzes much to long when the load is almost complete. I won't replace it for that reason alone, I was hoping it might be adjustable somehow. But that's the least of my concerns with this appliance. I don't want to call GE for service if I can help it. I just want to be able to use it without worrying about it causing injury to me, or damage to my home.
 
The dryer end of cycle buzzer behavior you are describing sounds normal... at least that's how my GE dryer's buzzer works. I think it is meant to go off before the end of the cycle so that the operator can remove the clothes before the dryer stops and wrinkles have a chance to set in.

Does your dryer have a switch to turn the buzzer on and off?
 
Does your dryer have a switch to turn the buzzer on and off?

...Yes, it has a switch to turn off the signal.
It's just that it signals on and on for at least five minutes before the machine stops. I can't believe they designed it to be that irritating.
 
"I can't believe they designed it to be that irritating"

Believe it. The 5 minute buzz is designed to get your attention, which it obviously does. It's designed to prevent wrinkles. If you can get your clothes out of the dryer and onto hangers within a minute (A big task under ideal circumstances) of the dryer stopping, you can prevent wrinkles from setting into your clothes.

The longer they sit, the worse the wrinkles get. So GE gives you a good warning. If you happen to be in the bathroom, or outside when it buzzes, you might miss your opportunity to get the clothes. A lot can happen in 5 minutes. So if you step back into the house, etc. you haven't lost your opportunity to get wrinkle free clothes.

When I used to use a dryer, and it was still tumbling and buzzing, I would reach in, grab 2 items, close the door and push the start button, hang the 2 garments, and repeat until everything was hung up.

Some GE dryers have variable sound control. Others simply have an on/off switch. Some have no switch. If you don't have the switch, you can remove the panel and pull off one of the wires (and wrap it well so it doesn't create a shock hazard). Then you will have no buzzer. But at least have the switch.

rustyspaatz++11-11-2013-23-15-40.jpg
 
I converted a 1976 GE gas dryer from LP to NG for a friend. The flame also licked up the back of the tube, I was concerned at first but 6 Months later no reported problems.

Scorching on the back of the drum also seems common, I've seen it on electric and gas models, possibly from overloading and/or partially blocked lint filter/venting.

The air shutter can be adjusted to get a nice blue flame but small yellow and orange tips are acceptable from what I understand.
 
I don't know.

All I have to say is that I like electric dryer rather than gas dryer.
 

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