Finally Found One - Kelvinator Foodarama

[58limited]

Might have a bit of a problem here. The fridge is in the garage and it is 46 F out there. I have the fridge and freezer compartments set on the warmest settings but the freezer is now -20 F and the fridge is 20F.

 

Is this a thermostat issue or is it simply because I have it running out in a cold environment?

 

[hydralique]

Most likely a thermostat or relay problem, certainly it shouldn't keep running when the interior temps are that low.

 

[goatfarmer]

It might be the enviroment. See  what it does when the outside temp improves.  Nice Kelvy, BTW!

 

[travis]

You're not supposed to run a fridge when it's cold outside, especially not one you like.

 

[58limited]

Yeah, I figured that might be a problem. I ran it for about three hours, its unplugged now. We have been warm all season until the other day. The temp was in the 70s and then a couple of fronts blew through, now it will be cool to cold for the indefinite future.

 

[58limited]

Just tinkering around today, I did some cleaning (goo under crisper drawers) and swapped the fruit basket brackets - someone put them on backwards. I used my ohmmeter to check both thermostats. When turned off I get infinity on both and when all the way on I get 0 ohms, so they appear to be good. Now, since I know little about electronics, I have a question : both thermostats have a temperature sensor (thermocouple?) that go into their respective compartments. If the ohm test is good, does that mean the temp sensors are good too? If not, how does one test them?

 

Continuing with my suedodiagnostics, I plugged the fridge back in with both thermostats turned off. The compressor started to run and the freezer quickly dropped in temperature. Now I'm thinking there could be a wiring issue. The back panel has been removed in the past and only a few screws are holding it on now. The power cord has been replaced with a grounded cord. Unfortunately, the wiring diagram on the back is not color coded so I can't tell what wire goes where, I'll probably have to remove some insulation and try to trace the wires down.

 

There is a "heater" in the wiring diagram. This is a manual defrost freezer, where would the heater be located?

[this post was last edited: 12/30/2012-13:31]

 

[washer111]

Heater

You'll probably find that "Heater" is for the Cyclic defrost in the refrigerator (i.e. The refrigerator defrosts during its "OFF" cycle), its for the compressor (Crankcase heater) or perhaps one of those mullion heaters.

By the way, that is one HUGE compressor and condenser! How does that thing keep those parts cool? Is it with a fan?

 

[58limited]

I was wondering the same thing, there is no fan.

 

 

 

[58limited]

Oops, wasn't paying attention to the prompts and deleted instead of edited.

 

"<a name="start_43839.649970">By the way, that is one HUGE compressor and condenser! How does that thing keep those parts cool? Is it with a fan?"</a>

 

I was wondering the same thing. There is a fan. It is hidden by the bulk of the condenser and compressor (which has fittings and is removable like a car compressor). I had to reach a hand behind the condenser and feel for it (with the power unplugged, of course). Also, I don't see a heater in the fridge compartment and the manual makes it sound like defrosting is passive when the compressor is not running. The manual also tells how to defrost the fridge compartment in the rare case it is needed: turn the t-stat to "warmest"

 

edit - I was able to use a flashlight and see just a little of the fan. I plugged the fridge in but the fan did not turn on, so it is either not working or has a thermal switch. Neither the fan nor a switch shows in the wiring diagram. The wires to the compressor hook to a capacitor at the front - to get to it for service it looks like the compressor assembly has to be removed. There are shutoff valves on the freon lines so that the freon and oil in the compressor can be saved, but the system would still have to be evacuated when hooked back up to get moisture out of the lines throughout the fridge.

[this post was last edited: 12/30/2012-17:25]

 

[hydralique]

Check for a bad or miswired relay that's keeping the compressor running even when the thermostats are satisfied.

 

[58limited]

Hi Hydralique, I was updating my post above as you typed your post. I'm reaching the conclusion that I will need to check the relay and, as noted above, I may have to remove the compressor assembly to gain access. My boss' son runs an A/C business that also works on appliances. I'll get him to take this project over since he has the freon recovery equipment and the know-how.

 

[hydralique]

Letting a pro check out the system is probably a good idea as refrigerators are much pickier about refrigerant charge levels than a/c systems and an incorrect charge isn't good for one. Looking at the photos, I'd be sorely tempted to cut a little inspection hatch in the left hand side of the box and make a removable cover for it. Of course it would be a deviation from stock, but in a unit this old it would be really nice to be able to service items like the fan, relays and capacitors without having to discharge the whole system.

 

Good luck with it; when I was small my family had one too, though a later model.

 

[58limited]

Service Hatch

Not a bad idea.

 

[58limited]

I've been talking with a guy on the Chambers forum who has two Foodaramas. He pointed out that there is enough slack to slide the compressor chassis out the back without undoing the refrigerant lines. The chassis is held on by 4 bolts. The date code on the compressor is April 1955. According to the tag on the front of the condenser, this unit holds 1 lb of freon, I would have guessed more.

 

[58limited]

Here is a closeup of the relay that mounts to the compressor. As soon as I verify with my friend that it is wired correctly, I'll check the connections leading to the thermostats and make sure a wire was not crossed. Since the fan wires are connected to the same terminals as the power wires, I'm assuming that the fan motor is out since it doesn't turn on with the compressor - the wires go directly to the fan, not to a thermal switch.

 

[goatfarmer]

That condenser fan needs to be running when the compressor runs, I'm betting that the fan itself is bad. They used a similar style of fan for years in GE 'fridges for sure, along with others. 3 bolts on the back hold it to the mount.

 

[58limited]

I guessed as much. I'll pull the fan and see about either rewiring it or finding a replacement. As soon as the wiring is situated and the fridge is running as it is supposed to, I'm going to start disassembly and get ready to paint it, weather permitting. Gotta stop now and move everything back into the garage - rain coming.

 

[58limited]

I've talked with the seller, his daughter apparently has the juice containers and is mailing them to me. I'm betting she saw them in dad's old fridge and thought "Neat, I'm taking these." Dad got onto her and now they are on their way - I hope.

 

[58limited]

For reference: If anyone acquires a Foodarama and the fan motor by the condenser  isn't working, here is the replacement part number:

 

A.O. Smith (now Century I think) UB04CWLA2F

 

The original is a GE motor, part # 5KSP51AL63C

 

[58limited]

The new fan motor arrived Wednesday and I just installed it. The fan works fine so I remounted the compressor chassis. Now to sort out the wiring....

 

The seller mailed the juice containers on Wednesday and said that I should have them Monday (tomorrow).

 

[alr2903]

58Limited,  Congratulations on your find. I wish you the best with your restoration.  How much does a  Foodarama weigh?  alr

 

[58limited]

The original shipping weight was 565 lbs - not sure if that included a wooden crate.

 

Specifications:

 

<div>60" Tall X 47 3/4" Wide X 26 1/2" Deep if you include the handles and doors, if not, then it's only 19 3/8" deep.

The Freezer door is 19 1/4" Wide and the refrigerator door is 28 3/8" Wide. So with both doors open all the way, the width becomes 61 1/4".</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Total Capacity: 15.9 cu. ft.
Frozen Storage Capacity: 4.7 cu. ft. (166 lbs.)
Shelf Area: 27.3 sp. ft. NEMA
Fresh Food Storage Capacity: 11.2 cu. ft.
Shipping Weight: 565 lbs. (approx.)</div>
<div>As big as it is, the Foodarama is a rather short refrigerator.</div>

 

[alr2903]

58Limited,  Thanks for the info.  I have always admired the Foodarama.  I am looking forward to seeing the finished photo's. I bet the original delivery guys in the 1950's, scheduled delivery of these early in the day, while well rested. Best of luck. alr

 

 

[58limited]

The juice pitchers arrived today - Finally!

 

[58limited]

They are not very big: 6 3/4" X 4 1/2" X 2"

 

[travis]

David,

For years a 6 oz bottle of Coke was the norm. Get your tiny juice glasses ready!

 

[westie2]

Looking at the size od them I bet made to hold one of the small frozen cans od orange or grape juice concentrate with the 3 cans of water added.  Just the right size to do up the night before to have for breakfast.  Now you have a complete Food A Rama.

 

[maddymox]

kelvinator foodarama

hello 58limited lovely fridge.im new to forum and was wondering if you have any spares for the foodarama.i have recently imported one from illinois to the uk.It needs work but i love it soooo much.hope you can help.

 

[58limited]

Very nice Foodarama, congratulations. Unfortunately someone else bought the parts Foodarama so I have no spare parts.

 

[rickr]

Congrats on the Food a Rama! I am sure you will find the parts you need. It just will take some time. Love the handle design of this year.