Thanks All To Pieces
For all the kind words!
Checked the result of yesterday's labours earlier and the stuff set up hard as rocks. So now the only question is how the patching will react to water and so forth. Am tempted to pour about two cups of hot water into the sump to begin "bringing the ship to life" as it were but haven't decided should deal with the rust and hole underneath first. Will probably at least hit the rust area with a coarse cup brush and clean things up, just to see what one is dealing with, then go from there.
Am rather on the fence about POR-15 and other so called "rust preventing" substances.
From researching around various other site including automotive there are those who swear by Por-15, Rust Bullet, et al, and others who swear at them. *LOL* Some simply feel the best thing to do with rust is remove as much of it as possible, then patch and or otherwise rebuild the area. More claim that all these substances do is delay the inevitable and that often rust continues to grow under the coating and even eats it's way trough. What does seem important at least with POR-15 is the prep work. Unless done correctly results are not going to be up to par.
With warmer weather and thus often the place shut up because the AC is on am not looking forward to being sealed in with fumes from Por-15 or whatever while they gas off. Will see how things go; maybe can slap some waterproof duct tape over the hole (after abrading off much of the rust) and wait for cooler Fall or Winter weather for any chemical repair work. That way can leave windows open and even clear out for a day or so until the fumes die down.
Other school of thought is to simply remove the rust, patch with epoxy and perhaps hit the area with Rustoleum product and call it a day. If the inner patch jobs hold long as no new breaks in the Plastisol occur there shouldn't be any water leaking out. That should keep a lid on the rusting, and can always just keep an eye on things.
@combo52
Can count on perhaps one had now many times one has used "heated dry" for any dishwasher in my life. Just don't see the need as between a good supply of hot water and rinse agent things dry well enough on their own. Being as that may am way ahead of you in considering that using the heated dry on this unit routinely probably is not the wisest. It looks as if someone was playing around with the unit and or used heated drying too often as part of lower upper rack (the one that hangs off the back of the tub) is melted a bit on one side. Am *very* concerned about the patch job which is not far under the heater. Don't want to risk exposure to too much heat often.
According to the service manual I have for the Hotpoint version this machine inside temps reach about 180F or so.
Our hot water has been around 135F or higher the past several months. Don't know what is going on but it bodes well especially considering it will only go higher in winter when the boilers are on for heating purposes.
Kept the insulation blanket from the Frigidaire/Kenmore 18" before it was chucked. After washing down the outer cabinet and polishing things up will see if one can find away to wrap it around the MM cabinet at least the back and sides. This hopefully will help holding in some of the heat and keep the noise down.
Know from reading the owner's manual that came with my machine and the Hotpoint service books how to stop and restart the machine after resetting to "wash" again. These directions are given as part of a the process for cleaning the tub to remove stains/spots/scale buildup with various substances such as oxalic acid. In theory once one learns where on the dial the main wash begins can simply stop and reset the unit. If done before the thing dumps the wash water should get another cycle. However unlike my late Kenmore there isn't a temp sensor in this machine, so it will continue heating water for the entire "second" wash. That could result in water temps >160F depending upon several factors.
This machine has a 50 minute "normal/daily" cycle with about twenty minutes of that devoted to heated drying. Also according to the manual lid remains closed at the end of washing, thus no automatic "pop up" as with other Mobile Maids.
In general:
This Mobile Maid in some ways is more compact than the portable Kenmore 18".
Because the water and drain hoses are up front it can be pushed almost flush against a wall. Where the Kenmore required several inches of space in back and therefore stuck out, the MM makes a smooth line with the Miele and AEG washing machines that are in the same row.
From reading the owner's manual you can fit a boat load of dishes in these things! While the motor and heating will draw more energy than the Kenmore did, will only have to run this baby perhaps only once a week since it holds so many dishes. It may be one of those situations that the thing won't be run until one is out of clean things to use.
If the thing does workout plan on only running it during the day or early evening. Both to keep the noise from bothering anyone and to keep an eye on the thing while it is running.
Kept the top from the old Kenmore (it had to come off anyway to get at the hoses), and placed it over the patterned vinyl top of the MM. This will protect the surface of the latter as one keeps things on top including a convection oven. The Kenmore top is also easier to keep clean and being solid much less prone to damage than the vinyl of the MM.
Also kept the unicouple hoses from the Kenmore which may come in handy as one sorts out how to get the MM near enough to the kitchen faucet and sink. Another worry is that the quick connect on the kitchen faucet is the larger/fatter version that works with my Miele and AEG. Am not going to be swapping it out for the smaller style "GE" version each time one wants to run the thing, so again that needs sorting.
LOL.
