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CheapAs# screws

Those screws are just simple sheet metal screws, nothing aligned or deep. Try a needle nose pliers to be able to exert out-force while also turning? However you get them out, just use a larger screw to replace it. They are hidden and just simple sheet metal screws.
 
Soak that screw with your choice of penetrating oil

Launderess - although I presume you did this, did you let a penetrating oil(rust loosener) set for a while, then try moving it? You have to let it set for a few minutes..you probably know all this, just in case... then as Akronman suggested, get a locking wrench, if possible, and turn it or use a longer screwdriver, with a good grip on the handle, and see if you can budge it. Here's another idea to make your own loosener, courtesy Popular Mechanics:

"A home brew concoction of 50 percent Acetone and 50 percent ATF may work well in some cases, but be mindful of the fumes. "

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If you already own an electric drill, the bolt-removal bit (available at Homo Depots everywhere) only costs about 3 dollars. I've made a habit of dosing all the screws and bolts on vintage appliances with penetrating oil and allowing it to sit for a day before trying to remove them. It saves a little bit of frustration.
 
Have Used Enough Liquid Wrench

That the paint around said screw has dissolved! *LOL*

Tried again yesterday night and this screw is not budging. Am going to see if using a small vise-grip pliers will loosen. If not will borrow a Dremel type rotary tool to cut a gauge into the head so can try shifting with a flat head screw driver.

Actually do have two drills and screw extractor bits, but thus far they have failed as well. Don't really want to add to already good sums spend on this machine buy purchasing yet another tool just for this one job, so will see what can be done with what one has in house.

Ordered a new faucet adaptor "nipple" that fits the unicouple. The one which came with the unit is old, corroded inside and lacks any sort of screen. Maybe the force of our tap water is too strong for the machine? Am grasping straws one knows but until one can get underneath the front panel....

On a brighter note it looks as if the patching has held thus far. Checked for signs of water leakage when machine was tipped over to work on the stripped screw and things were dry as a bone. Am going to use a different epoxy on the hole underneath as it is tight. Due to all the wires and such aiming even a small epoxy laden spatula may prove difficult and create a mess. Will use one of the better tube "two part" things one kneads together like plumber's putty.

Regarding sound; don't find the MM that bad. Then again am coming from that DM designed Kenmore which wasn't exactly whisper quiet.

Heat loss: yes this thing throws off quite a bit. Soon as one can find a way of doing so without damaging the newly polished finish will put on the insulation blanket taken from the Kenmore. For the top have a few yards of old knitted cotton padding that one uses to keep the heat in our various countertop convection ovens. Will just lay it on top after starting the unit up. That way can simply take it off and replace as needed to open or close the top.

Question about the leaking:

Noticed when one plugged in the dw there was humming at once. When water was turned on it began to "leak" out of the bottom of dw. However once things began to operate leaking appears to stop. Could the water problem be caused by the timer control being "on" (which would explain the humming sound IMHO) but not in proper place to begin a cycle?

Owners manual says to turn the dial only until one hears the machine start. For certain cycles it also advises to go beyond the first wash.

Plugged the unit in again to test and there isn't a humming. However this is after allowing the DW to run a cycle the other day and shut off on it's own accord. Am wondering if the timer dial was not where it should have been as a result of all the movement over the past several weeks. [this post was last edited: 7/22/2014-17:10]
 
Launderess,

It's been awhile since I've been under my MM, my daughter has been using it
for several years. The screws that hold the front panel, do they go thru the
main body? I can't remember. If so, is it visible on the backside that you
could get a vise-grip on it to turn it?
Bill
 
Hi Bill

Screws are in the corners just slightly to the left and right front wheels. Aside from turning the thing upside down cannot see how to get at them with any sort of pliers, even a vise-grip. Tried last night and just couldn't "see" what one was doing enough to make it work.

Just tested the MM again by hooking it up to the faucet but leaving it unplugged and yes, soon as water is turned on you can hear it begin dripping onto metal (bottom of front panel) inside. From the "wee-wee" pad placed underneath the water is coming from the left side of the unit. So it is either the hoses or solenoid. Water spots are not exactly at the extreme left corner, but more towards the middle.

If cannot get the darn screw off with a vise-grip from the front will have no choice but to go with a Dremel type tool or simply use an extractor. Either way that screw must come out so one can get under the bonnet.
 
Just Took A Small Flashlight And Peered

Into machine after lifting up and out the unicouple hose set.

Can see water drops on the part of those that is coiled over the "holder" inside and around the connection to the solenoid. This at least tells me the area where water is coming from. Hopefully it is a matter of tightening up some screws on the solenoid. Or, removing the hose connection adding a new washer and or some silicone tape and then screwing it back tightly.

Am here to tell you can see some rust on the inside as well. Mostly right around the vent area which is probably from years of hot steam escaping from the machine. The bottom insides of both the front panel and cabinet are likely rusty as well if this leaking was going on for any lengthy of time while the machine was in use. Still nothing probably nothing a little sanding and then treatment with a rust product shouldn't fix.
 
I've been watching this thread with soap opera-like interest. The input from AW's resident surgeons has been awesome.

Launderess, I'm cheering for you and your Mobile Maid. Hope the time and effort are rewarded with a 'save,' and that your patient doesn't wind up written out of the storyline. Either way, you have legit AW restoration bragging rights.

(cue suspenseful organ music and cut to commercial)[this post was last edited: 7/23/2014-11:08]

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So Now One Has Street Cred? *LOL*

Well that is something anyway. Tee-Hee!

When one thinks of the two other Mobile Maid dishwashers listed recently (Goodwill out west and on CL in MA)that one allowed to pass for this unit could sit down and weep. The one out west sold for $5 and seemed in much better nick than what I've got. Ditto the one listed for a hot minute in MA that also sold for not much money.

If one cannot budge this screw with a vise-grip am just going to drill it out and be done.
 
Sometimes One Becomes Sick & Tired of Being Sick and Tired

Picked up a tool extractor thingy this evening and went to town on that stuck screw. Well needless to say the thing did not "extract" a darn thing. Another ten or so dollars down the pan. As this point am hot, bothered and quite literally fed up to the back teeth. It didn't help today's weather was very hot and humid so was that uncomfortable as well.

Right then! This dishwasher want's to play rough house, so be it!

Took the good sized metal drill bit and simply drilled down the screw. For good measure took that some kind of piece of extractor and drilled right down below the head and into the "screw" piece. Grabbed my needle nose pliers and as if opening a bottle cap flipped the screw head off. There was a clang (screw going flying) and a bang (release of pressure that was holding the MM front panel on), and that was that, the front was off.

Of course when one does such things it leaves the rest of the screw still embedded inside whatever. At once saw why the darn thing was so stuck. Apparently someone replaced the thing on an angle. That plus time, rust, and moisture literally sealed the deal. Will have to wait for a vise-grip on order to arrive and see if we can sort that bit out as well. Failing that the remaining bit of the screw will have to be drilled out as well.

Now back to our continuing saga of "Launderess & The Mobile Maid"

Once the front panel was off things were pretty much what one expected. Dirty, rusty in spots but overall not that bad. Schematic diagram is glued to the inside of front panel. Bottom was cleaned out of God only knows what sort of filth. Lower half of inside and out of front panel will require attention regarding rust and paint, but that is small beer.

Checked screws on the solenoid and they were tight as a drum, so did not mess about there. Wheeled the DW over to the kitchen sink and hooked up water. At once it became apparent the leak was from around area where hose screws onto water valve. Removed same and used a spray of water to clean the screen on WV (did not know how to remove it and didn't want to mess about in case of damaging the thing), and got out my Teflon tape stash. Long story short a bit of plumber's tape, replacing and tightening of the hose sung, and Voila! The trick she is done. No more leaking, at least for now by my tests. Made things sung but didn't want to risk stripping the thing and or snapping the WV off the machine. *LOL*

It is late, am tired so won't do a test until tomorrow. Well since one has already tested the DW and for leaks probably isn't much more to do than run a maiden wash. Will take and post some snaps of underneath the front panel if anyone is interested.
 
Leaking GE MM DW

YAY You got that terrible screw to let go, and stopped the leak.

Note Teflon tape or plumbers putty should not be used on hose bibs, the threads are there to hold the connection together not seal it from leaking, the sealing is all accomplished by the rubber washer in the hose cupping.

Now the NY dinner parties can resume and the performance tests can begin.

John L.
 
Good show!

When I work on things sometimes you have to show it who the boss is, and other times you have to walk away for a while and think about it.

Eventually the solution will come to you.
 
I need my head examined

The problem with the one out West, which I bought, BTW the sale price was $6.00, NOT $5.00, thank you very much, is

a). no idea what condition it's in other than what I've seen in a couple of photographs

b.) bought it on the hope that there's a Rinse dispenser in there and have no idea if it is, and

c.) teaching it how to drive to Connecticut. 

 

Other than all that, I'll let y'all know how it is when it gets here.

 

A Top-Loading Portable in the East is worth at least two in the West.
 
Max, You Sly Puss!

@bajaespuma: So it was *you* that snapped up that Mobile Maid from out West. Putting me off the scent as it were...... *LOL*

Up until the last minutes of the auction was seriously contemplating putting in a bid as well. I mean a MM for <$10? How could one say no? But given shipping quotes one was getting to shift the unit from Conn to NYC didn't fancy thinking about what it would have taken to get that DW. So this makes what? Your fourth Mobile Maid? Where will it all end I wonder. Tee-Hee.

@Everyone Else:

Thanks for the well wishes guys!

Model number for my unit is SM301A3 and pulls 10 or 12 amps (cannot read the plate clearly).

Unit is put together and in it's cubby so pictures of inside are on hold. For one thing have spent a bit too much time with this dishwasher forsaking other projects that urgently need my attention. *LOL*. Want to run the unit a few times and see if anything is happening I don't like thus giving a reason to open. Can understand *just* how someone would have put that screw back in sideways. Unless one missed something the MM front panel does not remain "clipped" in, so one has to hold the thing whilst reinserting screws. Wasn't easily managed yesterday with the unit upright so had to tip it again on it's back.

Next time one goes in want to address the spots of rust on the inner cabinet and front panel. Given the hot and humid weather the AC is on a least part of the day and thus aren't going to be shut up breathing fumes from paints and rust products. Am not too sure about POR-15 so want to do some research. Apparently the rust simply remains "encapsulated" under the stuff, but like a cancer still lurking about.

For now am enjoying not having to put hands in hot water several times per day, in particular after dinner or before bed. Once the thing is full will run a real wash cycle to see what there is. In particular want to see how my Cascade "Complete" (old formula with phosphates" does with this machine. Have a decent stash of the stuff nabbed from various sources before the big switch in formulas. If it does not give satisfaction will have to decide what to do; that is sell the stuff on and purchase something else, or try and *make* it work.
 
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