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If you are ironing garments...make sure the tags never touch the shoe

...also many times buttons are sewed on with thread that might not be all cotton. You will melt the thread on the back of the button and the button no longer attached to the garment.

Faultless Iron Soleplate Cleaner...the best and least expensive for cleaning the shoe. The roller will start to drag if any residues or mishaps from "tag melts" linger.
 
Loved the video

You'll have a lot of fun with your new machine. Once you get the hang of it, try different strengths of liquid starch on your shirts. I used to like a very heavy starch, the shirts would almost stand up by themselves. Depending on your preference, if you iron shirts with the outside against the show you will get a slight sheen to the finish.

Michael is correct, be careful of the temperature settings and the blend of fabric. The thermostats can go off slightly. Recently I bought some all cotton fabric, ironed it on cotton setting and melted it. Turned out it was a blend.

And most important, remember good ironing is dry ironing!
 
Dry Ironing

I, too, was a fastidious sprinkler of laundry before ironing. I was doing pillowcases, a shower curtain among a few other things with my steam generator the other evening and tried it "dry". Granted, it's a steam iron but steam under pressure is hotter and a bit more "dry" than just boiling water steam in a standard iron. I was shocked at how nice the results were. It was easier, faster and since most linens are always dried on the line outside, the scent in the room was just heavenly for a couple of hours afterward!

This is a lighted sign that Don (Jetaction) found on ebay a while back. There is a motor that turns the roll on the front of the sign as well, super cool. It's interesting that the sign has "steam" coming from the back of the iron-roll.

gansky1++5-18-2011-21-40-35.jpg
 
Good Ironing is Dry Ironing

Had to look for it, but found the tag line on page 16 of my instruction manual. Right after the section on men's shirts. You do start with dampened clothes and there is a little section on how to properly do this. The result when done should be dry clothes. You can use the pressing action on thicker surfaces like collars. The manual is a real hoot to read as it takes you step by step in the ironing process.

Out here we have low or no humidity, so I would starch shirts, let them line dry then dampen them with a mister bottle or a sprinkler head in a ketchup bottle like my mother used. Stick the dampened clothes in a plastic bag and iron the next day. I recall my mother doing this on a Monday after the laundry was brought in from the line. Then she would iron on Tuesday.

I have the Rowenta Steam Generator, and with that I don't dampen my shirts, usually just give them a spritz of spray starch or Mary Ellen's Best Press spray. I bought a bottle of that at Hancock Fabrics in lavender and it smells good and gives a nice finish to shirts.
 
Dry Ironing

Refers to ironing damp textiles dry as opposed to using a steam iron on dry items.

In both cases one is using the power of heat and water to cause molecules/textile fibres to rearrange themselves and fix the result, however for the most part dry ironing works best on linen and cotton. Indeed pure linen requires the very high heat and steam output of commercial irons (or those close to it), in order to be ironed while dry. Otherwise linen must be ironed moist, whilst cotton only slightly damp.

Being as this may certain cotton weaves still are best "dry ironed" or slighly damp and steam ironed. In general the tighter the weave (percale for instance), usually means results aren't going to be great with steam alone on dry fabric. If you've ever had dress shirts come back from the cleaners/laundry looking like something the cat dragged in, you know this.

Steam ironing was seen as a boone to the housewife since it freed her from having all that damp laundry after wash day (which could moulder), and or having to sprinkle and wait for dry laundry to become evenly moist enough for ironing.

Early books such as the famous Mary Proctor book on ironing showed how one could do a shirt in 4mins, sheets in 8mins and other time savings from using a steam iron versus a dry.

Being as this may, certain textiles should always be ironed with steam. Rayon, polyester, and other man-made fibres benefit from steam ironing in that the moisture protects them from the heat of the iron.

As more and more man made fabrics took over in the household, and steam irons became better designed, "dry ironing" slowly faded away for most.
 
Think About Using An Ironrite And Or Other Rotary Ironers

Is to learn just how damp laundry is supposed to be.

Too moist and you have to send things through multiple times to dry.

Too dry and ironing results are poor and one risks scorching things.

Unlike other ironers the Ironrite does not have a speed control. So the only way to deal with areas that are too wet is to constantly start and stop the roller with the knee controls. This "pressing" will help get things ironed dry.
 
I had success in using a non flameable brake cleaner from an auto supply story when I cleaned out the gearbox in my Ironrite. I just took out the drain plug, put a pie pan under the drain and then sprayed in the cleaner. I also used a small stiff brush to loosen the old gummed up oil along with the cleaner.

Another thought on the dampening. It may have been mentioned here before and I recall my mom talking about it. Once you dampen the clothes, put them in a plastic bag and then put the bag in the refrigerator. I think it keeps the clothes from souring or mildewing, if you don't get to your ironing quickly. You'll find if the clothes are too damp they'll stick to the roller.
 
Depending jpon time of year and climate in your location, leaving damp items laying about waiting for ironing, even in plastic can cause disaster. That is mould and or mildew stains, which by the way are nearly impossible to remove totally if severe.

Yes, placing items in the fridge does by some time, but not long as one thinks. Remember foods go mouldy whilst sitting in there as will damp laundry sitting in a sealed plastic bag.

Personally find it better to take items from either the extractor (spin dryer) of the Hoover TT or "Spin-X", or out of the Miele and they are nearly always near or ready "damp dry for ironing". There are some things that one does not extract too long or even at all. These are allowed to drip dry but not until they are totally dry. Just enough moisture remains in some areas that once folded and allowed to sit for a bit will evenly distribute all over.

Oh and another thing, though common house-keeping lore suggest rolling items up tight after dampening, it is not always best. Better to fold things carefully best to allow moisture to evenly spread out. Also the smoother you keep things before ironing the less work there is to do,regardless if it is by machine or hand.

L.
 

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