Fridge not cooling after repair
- Thread starter jed0nly
- Start date
Help Support :
Keven
has been following this, but really, there's not much productive I could add which hasn't been mentioned already.
Personally, I always either tape connectors or heat-shrink them or replace them with insulated ones when working anywhere near metal and fibreglass/rock-wool. Dratted stuff absorbs moisture and things can happen.
The tip about just shorting the cold control made sense.
Whenever something like this happens to me (all to frequently), I look for the mistakes I made doing the initial repair. Something happened, or - the refrigerant level/compressor weakness had just reached the point where this was the last straw.
Both 'worst case' scenarios can be handled, though and it's just a matter of looking for people with the skills, tools and desire to help.
As for John and Paul - well, their knowledge exceeds mine by leaps and bounds.
[this post was last edited: 7/19/2017-08:21]
has been following this, but really, there's not much productive I could add which hasn't been mentioned already.
Personally, I always either tape connectors or heat-shrink them or replace them with insulated ones when working anywhere near metal and fibreglass/rock-wool. Dratted stuff absorbs moisture and things can happen.
The tip about just shorting the cold control made sense.
Whenever something like this happens to me (all to frequently), I look for the mistakes I made doing the initial repair. Something happened, or - the refrigerant level/compressor weakness had just reached the point where this was the last straw.
Both 'worst case' scenarios can be handled, though and it's just a matter of looking for people with the skills, tools and desire to help.
As for John and Paul - well, their knowledge exceeds mine by leaps and bounds.
[this post was last edited: 7/19/2017-08:21]
turquoisedude
Well-known member
I've done this, and if anyone could blow the house up messing about with electricity it's me... LOL This is what I did to prove to myself that cold controls on a Kelvinator and GE wall fridge <span style="font-size: 12pt;">were kaput. </span>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span>(both have found new homes, neither has caused a fire...LOL)
I actually have now built myself a test cord for situations like this with a male flat disconnect terminal on each end. It's a good little 'tool' to have for bypassing thermostats or lid switches and ensures a solid connection.
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span>(both have found new homes, neither has caused a fire...LOL)
I actually have now built myself a test cord for situations like this with a male flat disconnect terminal on each end. It's a good little 'tool' to have for bypassing thermostats or lid switches and ensures a solid connection.
With the two leads tied together, it was low 30s at 12 hours and the evaporator was frosted over big time. Also found out at that point my thermometer was off by a decent amount. Ran three thermos (refrigerator hanger thermostat, meat thermo, and a digital thermo). Two were dead on at 32, one said 45. Reinstalled the cold control after I scrubbed the capillary tube, have it set to 7, and its holding at 39 for the time being. Will check it again in the AM.
I've found the best way to track cabinet temperature is to place the thermometer or its sensor into a glass of water. It will take a while for the water temp to match that inside the cabinet, but it's less likely to fluctuate. For checking freezer temp, ice cream will work the same way.
However, I think your thermometers have served their purpose and isolated the cold control as the likely suspect. I'm not so sure that scrubbing the capillary tube will have any effect, but it will be interesting to read your report.
However, I think your thermometers have served their purpose and isolated the cold control as the likely suspect. I'm not so sure that scrubbing the capillary tube will have any effect, but it will be interesting to read your report.
I'm doing the water trick with the meat thermo and the digital thermo. I've tossed the fridge thermometer in the bin. Currently at 37 at #7 on the wheel. Hopefully it's closer to 32 by morning. But the cold control seems to be doing its job, at least somewhat.
I scrubbed the tube because it was corroded and a bit crusty. Looks decent now, but not sure it helped.
I scrubbed the tube because it was corroded and a bit crusty. Looks decent now, but not sure it helped.
Still at 37* as of this AM. I'm thinking that isn't quite cold enough. I plan to replace the door seal, but I may replace this cold control as well. It's definitely performing better than my old thermometer was telling me!
37 is considered optimum for the fresh food section. Presumably, with the fresh food portion maintaining that temperature, the freezer should be at about 0.
It could be that the cold control has gotten a little sloppy for whatever reason. I suggest careful handling going forward. With my fridge, I unplug it to defrost rather than mess with the cold control, even though it's a new replacement. I don't want to be bothered with what you're going through right now, so I don't touch the cold control.
It could be that the cold control has gotten a little sloppy for whatever reason. I suggest careful handling going forward. With my fridge, I unplug it to defrost rather than mess with the cold control, even though it's a new replacement. I don't want to be bothered with what you're going through right now, so I don't touch the cold control.
I have tried to shim and realign that freezer door, but it just sags anyway. I've taken It apart and fiddled with the latch, but I just can't get it straight. When I go in and replace the interior trim, I'll have another go at it.
customline
Well-known member
I had a similar problem...........
But with my bottom door on my '56 Hotpoint combo. I shimmed it and shook it and bent the hinges and it's still not quite there but functional.
But with my bottom door on my '56 Hotpoint combo. I shimmed it and shook it and bent the hinges and it's still not quite there but functional.
Great news!
Maybe you could stick some kind of a wedge with a smooth surface (imagine a tiny door stop) in the lower left front corner of the freezer opening that would lift the door as it snaps shut and keep it from sagging. Or maybe a hemisphere shaped small plastic glide could be stuck somewhere on that bottom ledge to make the door ride up and level out.
Maybe you could stick some kind of a wedge with a smooth surface (imagine a tiny door stop) in the lower left front corner of the freezer opening that would lift the door as it snaps shut and keep it from sagging. Or maybe a hemisphere shaped small plastic glide could be stuck somewhere on that bottom ledge to make the door ride up and level out.
