Frigidaire 1-18 revitalization project

[fltcoils]

I thought I'd take my new washer apart.

First I wanted to see inside, so I removed the front panel. Then the top wanted to come up, so I unhooked the wires and took that off. These things escalate. So I removed the sub top. And then with the agitator standing out there so easily I thought I'd see if the nut would come loose. It did.

so Now I'm paused waiting for pliers for the bellows, and the nerve to try that other nut holding the bellows on.

The main idea is to glycerin the bellows now, with them out so I can hit both sides.

So far there haven't been any bad surprises. I did take pics. A lot. some of which I'll show here, one at a time, until I figure out how to do that
img src="xxxfiles/xxx.jpg" thingie shown in vacuumland

 

[fltcoils]

Bellows

 

[fltcoils]

nut

 

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bellows clamp ring hook

 

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Timer Chart

 

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Drive Shaft

 

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Left view

 

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Right View

 

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Left CloseUp

 

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Right Closeup

 

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Schematic

 

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Wiring diagram

 

[fltcoils]

Why would I want to clean off the urethane deposits on the drive shaft and spin/agitate rollers? I'd assume power transmission would improve with the coating. Yes?

 

[goatfarmer]

Unusual, that one doesn't have the plastic diverter tray over the motor.

 

[goatfarmer]

On second look, maybe it does.....

 

[joelippard]

I have the same machine...

and mine doesn't have the diverter tray. Anyone know how to get one? My motor looks different, still the open style but the wiring is green, almost like it is coated??

 

[fltcoils]

Ok Joe, Kenny, Robert...How do I get that top nut off to loosen the bellows.

I really don't want to shear the brass spline inserts.

Should I just wire brush it, use penetrating oil, apply heat (<212 deg though) and hope? Or I certainly can drimel it in half without trouble. Then replace with stainless.

Ideas based on the photo of nut condition?

 

[goatfarmer]

I would wire brush the threads, use liberal amounts of penetrating fluid (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or similar),let it sit for a day or so, and then spin it off. I have the bellows pliers, whenever you need them.

 

[fltcoils]

Small bladed screwdriver?

"unhook the bellows clips with a small flat screwdriver"

http://www.automaticwasher.org/TD/ARCHIVE/VINTAGE/2006/7039x23.htm
Is this possible or easy? sounds better than the c-clamp method

 

[goatfarmer]

You can use a small screwdriver, however, you take the chance of puncturing the bellows.

 

[fltcoils]

Top thing is a nut, bottom thing is not

I'm kinda discouraged.
I got the bellows clamp loose, and the nut loose.

But that thing under the nut also has a hex....I tried to get it loose when it seemed locked to the agitate/spin shaft assy, by using an impact wrench.

I'd really checked the manual, and it just wasn't apparent it wasn't a nut.

The top thing is a nut, but the bottom thing is a washer/retainer - not threaded.

bad bad bad bad bad bad bad.

The keyways now have triangular profile, and the oil bellows last from top inner convolution is severed. (from a +/- 10 deg movement?

I could really use some help here. Would someone measure their keyways, width, length, radial depth with a caliper? I can make new ones that way.

Or I'm always interested in any supplies, if you might have something? 2 keyways and an oil bellows....

View attachment 4-9-2008-20-52-9--fltcoils.jpg

 

[fltcoils]

nut & not nut

 

[fltcoils]

Not a nut

views of bellows retainer

 

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Broken bellows

Oil bellows now sheared off at top inner convolution

 

[fltcoils]

Disassembled but damaged keyways

Big view

 

[fltcoils]

Keyway closeups

Some views of keyway slot and keyway remains

 

[goatfarmer]

Sent you an e mail.

 

[fltcoils]

I did get the agitate arm coupling off the agitate shaft. But the agitate shaft does not pull out the top like the rollermatic's did in 2006.

I'll need some help. But I'm hopefull.