Frigidaire dble range. i.d.?

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Phil:

I wonder if you might know the answer to a question the above photo brings up:

The left rear burner appears to be a regular Radiantube. However, this is the position that Frigidaire assigned to its Thermizer deep-well cooker. And the Thermizer I was familiar with as a kid (on a 1948 RK-70), had an open-coil burner under it, not a Radiantube.

So, does the presence of a Radiantube in that position mean that Frigidaire had already discontinued the Thermizer? Or was a special, raise-able Radiantube being used under the Thermizer by that time? Or was the Thermizer optional? Or is this a "hack," meaning that someone replaced a Thermizer burner with a Radiantube after purchasing the range?

It would be interesting to know the answer, and you're one of the few people here who would know for sure.

Thanks in advance!
 
That RT-70 is one stove that I really want, but I’m holding out for one in Stratford Yellow.  I may not live long enough to find one in that color, but so far, I’m being patient.

 

Sandy, my 1949-50 RM-65 has an adjustable radiantube in the thermizer well.  In raised position, it looks just like a regular burner.
 
In addition to the two level Thermizer unit, this range had a thermostat in the wall of the well and hiding behind that round lens to the left of the well are two C-7 bulbs that signal when the fat has reached the right frying temperature. The user then switched the heat from High to Medium High and the thermostat cycled the element to maintain frying temperature. Granted it was a preset temperature, but the spring-loaded thermostat body kept the thermostat in contact with the Thermizer pan for temperature controlled frying.

There are 11 C-7 bulbs illuminating the controls of this range. You could light up a small Christmas Tree with the bulbs.

An accessory for this range is the Mirro Matic 6 quart pressure cooker that fits in the deep well.
 
Thanks!

For the information. I don't know as much about Frigidaire ranges as I do some others, and this adds to my store of knowledge. I'm not as crazy about Frigidaires as some other brands, but if an RK-70 like the one I grew up with surfaced near me, there's no telling what my reaction would be....

danemodsandy++1-27-2015-19-35-46.jpg
 
thanks for the information

Thanks very much for the information everyone. Sandy; Is there anything in particular that would make you like this brand less than some other, say, parts availability, reliability, design. Am curious. I know the burners are thought to be somewhat slower than the g.e. burners, but that's the only difference I know of. les.
 
Les:

Your question has kind of a complicated answer, so bear with me here, okay?

If one is talking about late-1940s/early-1950s ranges, I don't really have a preference between GE and Frigidaire; both companies made products with very similar features. And styling was roughly equivalent in quality during that time frame.

Later, in the late '50s, I appreciated GE's Straight-Line Design styling more than I did the equivalent Frigidaire Sheer Look styling. This is strictly a matter of personal taste, but I always felt that Frigidaire slightly over-did the glamour when styling their higher-end appliances. GE's styling was also glamorous, don't get me wrong, but it was - for my money - a glamour that was a wee bit more tasteful.

So far as my preference on a daily driver, it's for a GE with P*7 self-cleaning, introduced in 1963. Frigidaire responded in '65 or '66 with Electriclean (one of our Frigidaire mavens could supply the correct year), but again, GE had the styling I found the most attractive - to say nothing of windowed oven doors, which Frigidaire didn't have on Electriclean models until the '70s.

The other reason I prefer GE is that GEs - for the moment - have better parts availability on the '60s and '70s models I prefer. That may change now that Electrolux is involved, but for the moment, it seems easier to keep a GE range in good repair than it does a GM-built Frigidaire, because when WCI (now Electrolux, which should explain my concern with future availability of GE parts) bought Frigidaire, they changed a lot of GM-engineered design and parts availability for GM-built units is a little spotty. Stuff like burner supports, for instance, which GEs don't even use, because the GE support is part of the Calrod element.

So, I like an easy-to-repair driver, and I like GEs styling of their self-cleaning ranges.

But that's just me, and I know plenty of people, like Phil philr, who love Frigidaires and would never "turn on" to a GE range in the same way.

I told you it was going to be a long answer, LOL.
 
Frigidaire's first Electri-Clean ovens were 1965 J model

I don't know the exact date they were introduced but that was probably in 1964.

And Sandy, the reason why I don't have many large GE appliances is simply because I have an agreement with Paul to leave him all the nice GE stuff that's available around!

He lets me get the small GE appliances though!
;-)

You should still see what I got now! I probably have more GE Toast-R-Ovens than I have Frigidaire ranges! I also have a GE food processor, a nice GE chrome blender (a gift from Paul!), can openers, hand mixers... I also have a GE Filter Flo clone washer (an Eaton Viking) and a few weeks ago, I almost got a Coppertone GE bottom-freezer with an unusual (for a 1960s GE) hinged freezer door instead of a drawer. Just a few pictured here. I also have a C-20b, another pot-belly, multiple Toast-R-Ovens and kettles. I had to give to Paul a Carry-Cool and a few other small GE appliances that I thought he'd like but I still have plenty of them!

philr-2015013001314007280_1.jpg

philr-2015013001314007280_2.jpg

philr-2015013001314007280_3.jpg
 
Very Nice!

Phil:

I own two Toast-R-Ovens, both four-slice models. One is '70s with the chrome-framed door and the top browning feature, and the other is '80s with the all-glass door and the broiling feature.

I love that blender! I've been looking for one in black, but no luck. Cory cadman found one here locally, though, so perhaps there's hope.
 
Les, if I could respond to your question also...

 

I learned to cook on my great-aunt’s 1963 Frigidaire long ago.  Since November, I’ve had the “sister” to the RT-70 model, the RT-38—in Sherwood Green!  My biggest concern coming back to the radiantubes after years and years of gas and regular electric was that they would heat up slowly and be frustrating to use.  In fact, I find that on ‘high’, they heat faster than any appliance I’ve ever used, gas or electric, since the last time I cooked in my aunt’s house.  For full disclosure, note that I have never cooked on a vintage GE or on one of those pro-style gas ranges.  My experience is with modern stuff.  But I do have an outdoor patio stove that supposedly heats to 40k BTU (I doubt it’s actually that high on propane), and the Frigidaire boils a large pot of water a lot faster than it does.

 

My greater criticism of the radiantube is that while the speed of heating may not really be a problem, responsiveness certainly is.  The radiantubes stay hot for a long time, which is a problem if 1) you really need to lower the heat on something that’s cooking too fast, or 2) you’ve finished cooking and you wish you could leave the pot on the burner.  You can’t really wait for those tubes to cool, it just takes too long.  You have to move the pot.  That is apparently not the case with GE and others; they are supposed to react more quickly when the temp is changed or turned off.  Even with this drawback, I prefer the radiantubes to any modern element I’ve used.  How I would feel after comparing them to other vintage ranges, I don’t know.

 

I have read of people having trouble with warping and twisting of the radiantubes.  I’ve never seen that myself.  None of the burners on my aunt’s range ever warped, in all the 20 years that I cooked on it. 

 

Parts availability is a problem, as has been discussed.  However, I already have accumulated several replacement burners at a reasonable cost, so I feel like I can deal with that problem.

 

Reliability is an interesting question that I’d like to hear more about.  I’m sure each and every brand has its Achilles’ heel, and it might bet interesting to see what people single out in each brand.  That might make a good post—brand-specific problems or weaknesses.

 

I hope this helps.

[this post was last edited: 1/30/2015-22:10]
 
thanks for the response.

1. Thanks much Phil for identifying the model number and level.

2. Sandy; I too have a g.e. range (1960 model) that I enjoy. The burners lights up quickly but since it's a pushbutton model, I don't have the degree of control over the temp that I would like. Especially for the thin walled stainless pressure cooker that I enjoy using. The information you gave about the idiosyncrasies and differences between the two was very informative. I guess if I bought it and I needed parts, I would just have to wait for something to come along on ebay. thanks much.
3. John; Nothing like having someone explain how these old ranges operate in real time. I heard also (at this site) that you to turn them to high, then set them where you want the temp to be. A little different operation from g.e. that I have, but I could live with that difference. thanks again for the information from everyone. Les.
 
Les:

Your comment about the pushbuttons is another reason I prefer the late-'60s/early '70s GE models that I do; GE started transitioning to infinite rotary controls in that time frame.

However, there are plenty of pushbutton GEs that would work very well with your pressure cooker; I refer to high-end models with Sensi-Temp. If you have never used an electric range with Sensi-Temp, you would be in for a treat. You just set a temperature, and Sensi-Temp holds it with no further work on your part.

The only thing about Sensi-Temp is finding a range where the Sensi-Temp still works. You can sometimes find repair parts, as well. My 1972 GE J 370 range has Sensi-Temp, and I love it. I also have Coil Select, a feature that lets me heat only as much burner as I need - I can heat only the innermost 4 inches of coil, or the innermost 6 inches, or all 8 inches, to accommodate different sizes of cookware. There is also a "Griddle" setting for use with the optional griddle (which I have); that setting heats only the outermost two inches of coil, giving perfect heat control across the griddle surface. A pic is below:

danemodsandy++1-30-2015-19-53-36.jpg
 
Similiarities

I too have the sensi temp, with the same issues that many stove owners with sensi temp have; i.e., the dreaded "responder" and it's availability. I have not given up on it yet. Hope to find a 60 parts manual somewhere listing the parts code for it, or find someway to repair it. They say it's not repairable, but you never know. (I wonder if anyone at this site has ever taken one apart and attempted o repair it.) Regarding the pressure cooker issue, it's the Presto stainless steel model. It's not like the heavier walled aluminum ones. If I use the g.e., with the button control, the just under high button gets the pressure up to where I want it to be(where the weighted pressure indicator is wobbling just right), but it will leave burned food inside the pan in the form of a half moon (coil). Usually this is only an issue with the smaller bean like split pea or lentil. If I move down to a slightly lower temp button, it takes forever to get the pressure up to speed. If I could have more control over it exactly, this wouldn't be an issue. thanks. Les.
 
Les,

The concern you have with the lack of infinite control with your 1969 5 heat GE burners would be the same with the 1954 Frigidaire, as these, just like your 1960 GE, have 5 heat settings for their burners.

That gradually changed from 1955 to 1959 as some models began to offer infinite heat (on the front "Speed Heat" in 1955) and thermostatic burners and by 1958-59, some models did have 4 infinite heat switches for their burners but it's in 1960 that infinite switches became standard on most Frigidaire ranges for the 4 burners.

Phil
 
I forgot to comment on the infinite controls—or lack thereof! 

 

I’m surprise that I have actually come to appreciate these pre-set controls, for the most part.  For foods that I routinely prepare, I know exactly which setting to use and I don’t have to fiddle with moving the dial up and down till I’m satisfied.  I’ve noticed this is especially helpful when I’m frying things—the heat is 100% predictable and 100% stable. 

 

In my admittedly limited experience, the difference in heat between Simmer, Low, Medium-Low, and Medium-High is just what it needs to be.  I’ve never thought I needed anything in between.  But I am actually annoyed with the jump from Medium-High to High.  Med-High should really be Medium, because it’s half the power of High, and there really ought to be a true Med-High between them—maybe even two settings in between.  This is actually a fairly serious problem, and I think some people would be very frustrated by it.  Luckily, I am only mildly frustrated.

 

As recommended, I always start on High, then turn to the heat I really want.  In all honestly, that’s the way I’ve always cooked, even with gas.  I get the pan hot before I get started, no matter what comes next.  (Except for Hollandaise or melting chocolate or similar extremely delicate tasks.)

 

I’ve posted a lot to this question because I’ve been so happy with this range over the last few months, that I almost can’t stop talking about it!  But I want to point out that there are many, many other people on this site whose knowledge of Frigidaires puts me to shame.  I’m very new to much of this, despite my experience in my aunt’s kitchen years ago. 

 
 
rotary versus push button

Phil and John: I had seen on the front of the frigidaire for sale, that there were rotary, and not push button type burner controls, but did not know if they had several settings or were indeed, infinite. i.e. meaning I could have more precise control over the burner temp. The settings are probably very similar to the 1960 g.e. but the g.e. that I have does the following; There are 2 coils (say on the 6 inch), wound next to each other. Hi setting ; both coils light up full blast. Next to hi setting,the outside (longer) coil shuts off, and the coil next to it lights up full blast. (by full blast, I mean they get red) Medium setting, seems to be quite a bit lower, with neither turning red. The coils are quite thin, which might cause them to get red hot faster than the Frig's flat coil, but also that concentrated heat (red hot in a narrower area) causes the food to burn. Whereas the flatter, wider frig coil, with the same feed level setting might avoid that.(more evenly distributing the heat on the bottom of the pressure cooker. It still has a double oven though, which wins me over .thanks also for the actual operational(daily use) characteristics of this stove. thanks. Les.
 
Suggestion:

What about going to Automatic Ephemera and buying/downloading the owner's manual for the range you're interested in? It's available at the link below. I've done this on appliances I've become interested in, and it's a great way to figure out whether you really want to live with a given make and model, or not.

The manual for your range can be purchased here:

http://www.automatice.org/cgi-bin/index.cgi?showdoc~790~Frigidaire~RA
 
I have purchased all the available automatice booklets for Frigidaire ranges of the 1950s.  Unfortunately, the manual for the RT-70 itself is not on the list.  I have never seen a copy of this particular manual on any of the usual sale and auction sites, either.  I’m not sure why that’s the case.  Luckily, automatice does offer the booklet for the RT-38.

 

For the record, the rotary dials on the old Frigidaires look like infinite controls, but they are not.  They click into place as you turn to each heat level.
 
RT-70

John; Even though I purchased the 52 through 54 frig range owners manual @ ephemera, I read it, and realized it didn't include the RT70 model, but it did include most of the upper model features though. Thanks for the information. Les
 
The burned portion of food on the bottom of your Presto is not due to any fault of your GE range's "controllability," but rather to the construction of your Presto because you said it does not happen if you bring the pressure up on 2 or Medium Hi. Thicker foods might have to be brought up to pressure on lower heat to avoid scorching, but stainless steel pressure cookers with a thicker base with aluminum encapsulated in the base can spread the heat better and reduce the burned on spots. I had two Presto stainless steel cookers, the one from the 60s with the carbon steel core and the very curvy or rippled base and the design introduced in the late 70s which was just as bad at scorching food, and not just thick foods, when the pressure was brought up on High. The cookers made by Kuhn Rikon and WMF, because of their better bases, do not have the problem that the Presto has. Also, their bases remain flat at cooking pressure which is not the case with the lighter-weight cookers so a lower cooking heat can be used to maintain the cooking pressure since more of the cooker's base is in contact with the surface unit.

As to the hold over heat of the Radiantubes, I learned to switch the heat to the lower setting at the first sign that something was coming to a boil or before the pressure was reached and then I set the timer for maybe 3 to 5 minutes less than the cooking time called for so that I switched off the unit when the timer signaled and used the retained heat of the unit to finish the cooking operation. All of my older electric range manuals and cooking guidelines emphasize the economy of cooking with the stored heat and that has been the way I have approached electric cooking on any brand of range except for the induction units. As Mikael says, the things you usually cook, you learn how long they will need to come up to cooking heat and you quickly learn with electric cooking not to leave ANYTHING unattended over High heat. [this post was last edited: 2/1/2015-18:35]
 
thin walled stainless

Tom: I was thinking the exact thing, that is, I've only had this problem with the g.e. burner on this stainless thin walled pressure cooker, never on heavier clad cooking pans, etc. I have seen the aluminum ones that are heavier clad, but am not a fan of the aluminum being in contact with the food. IMO that's not a health plan. But I've never heard of a stainless pan with aluminum encapsulated in the bottom of it. It would seem that that would distribute the heat more evenly and lessen the chance of burning. I am going to look up Kuhn Rikon and WMF to see what shows up for sale. I bought this pressure cooker cheap, intent on learning how to cook more, instead of all that restaurant food. The problem with the small beans that burn, if you get one little scorch mark on the bottom of the pan, it taints the whole pot with that burnt taste. Thanks also for the information on the radiantubes. I may end up getting that stove or something very similiar to it. Much appreciation. Les.
 
I have read that if you scorch something you are cooking, if you put a wooden clothespin in the food and let it simmer for a while that the scorched flavor will be absorbed by the wood. I don't know if this works or not.

You are to be commended for wanting to learn to use a pressure cooker to prepare nutritious meals. I wish you success with a well constructed pan. In the meantime, if you will use lower heat to bring the pan up to pressure, while it sort of negates the speed of pressure cooking, it will help the performance of the Presto. It is adequate with vegetables in water and most anything that you cook on the rack where there is not a problem with bringing the pressure up over high heat so don't think that you have to get rid of it when you find a better pan.
 

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