Actually, big leaks are better, conversely
If it is a frost free model - which I guess it is - the freezer side will never be 100% air tight. The thaw water from a defrost has to go somewhere, usually, an evaporation pan on top of the compressor.
Some EU models have passive, thermal valves that only open on defrost to plug that drain hole, but I don't think US models have that yet since it is a pure efficiency measure.
And right next to the compressor, simpler machines often still have the good old defrost timer.
So you have a direct air path to the compressor area, and a mechanical switching device.
If he recently replaced the fan, that new fan might have been faulty aswell.
Hard to say - but ignition sources do exist.
Can't say if it's R600 or R290 - wouldn't make much of a difference.
And slow leaks are a bigger issue, actually.
If you - for example - manage to puncture a pipe while cleaning, that damage usually is bigger.
That means almost all of the charge vents basically instantly.
That in turn means that the time until the refrigerant is completely gone is pretty short. The shorter the time, the less chance of an ignition source being active in that time.
Keep in mind - if thr concentration is to high OR to low, ignition is not possible.
A big failure has a fast transition through that danger zone.
A slow leak can keep up the exact right condition for longer.
As the first refrigerant that leaked gets diluted, the leak might resupply at just the right speed.
And everything got thinner.
Saving money, first action is always to reduce material costs.
On a fridge-freezer, where you shouldn't have much environmental influences AND where you should have close to no physical interaction (especially on a frost free model), that shouldn't be much of an issue.
Aluminium dosen't weather much in many conditions, especially indoors.
And if you only build for like 15-20 years of those conditions, you can go pretty thin.
However, if a clumsy technician just goes at it, well, that's a different story.
If it is a frost free model - which I guess it is - the freezer side will never be 100% air tight. The thaw water from a defrost has to go somewhere, usually, an evaporation pan on top of the compressor.
Some EU models have passive, thermal valves that only open on defrost to plug that drain hole, but I don't think US models have that yet since it is a pure efficiency measure.
And right next to the compressor, simpler machines often still have the good old defrost timer.
So you have a direct air path to the compressor area, and a mechanical switching device.
If he recently replaced the fan, that new fan might have been faulty aswell.
Hard to say - but ignition sources do exist.
Can't say if it's R600 or R290 - wouldn't make much of a difference.
And slow leaks are a bigger issue, actually.
If you - for example - manage to puncture a pipe while cleaning, that damage usually is bigger.
That means almost all of the charge vents basically instantly.
That in turn means that the time until the refrigerant is completely gone is pretty short. The shorter the time, the less chance of an ignition source being active in that time.
Keep in mind - if thr concentration is to high OR to low, ignition is not possible.
A big failure has a fast transition through that danger zone.
A slow leak can keep up the exact right condition for longer.
As the first refrigerant that leaked gets diluted, the leak might resupply at just the right speed.
And everything got thinner.
Saving money, first action is always to reduce material costs.
On a fridge-freezer, where you shouldn't have much environmental influences AND where you should have close to no physical interaction (especially on a frost free model), that shouldn't be much of an issue.
Aluminium dosen't weather much in many conditions, especially indoors.
And if you only build for like 15-20 years of those conditions, you can go pretty thin.
However, if a clumsy technician just goes at it, well, that's a different story.
